2.0L20v90Q...white wheels it is!!

speeding-g60 · Post by **speeding-g60** » Wed Mar 04, 2009 6:49 pm

my line. cant use. find another. over.

Zerb · Post by **Zerb** » Wed Mar 04, 2009 8:04 pm

i know i know. but i wake up in the middle of the night and write things down that i come up with while sleeping. thats bad too eh? ...s.c.m.d

Zerb · Post by **Zerb** » Sun Mar 08, 2009 11:02 am

got the kirkeys race seats yesterday, chopped the brackets off of the stock seats to start... just gotta figure out the bracketry and we'll be good to go...

also have an idea for a manual-esque rear locker. i dont have the parts yet....but the idea seems like itd work out. pretty much (see pic below)

and replace that with a door lock actuator from an older chevy...pretty much just an actuator that you put 12v to and itll pop out, ground it and itll come back it.

speeding-g60 · Post by **speeding-g60** » Sun Mar 08, 2009 11:27 am

couple things.....

the door lock actuators are not meant for constant duty. you will fry it. you need a positive stop to it. like a push/pull cable or something of that nature. it will gradually go back in if it does not have constant pressure on it. i have not figured mine yet, i just may lock permanently with a solid bracket.

and the seats. i strongly suggest you WAIT for the seat mounts until your cage/bar is in. ask me why?

i did the rabbit seat first. then re-did it after i did the cage. and i want to say i had to lower it a couple inches after it was all done, on the second modification trip. this car? cage first, seat next. and door bars not until the interior work is done

and go by the book as much as you can.

4:10 ROLL BARS
Mandatory in all cars running 11.49 or quicker, or per Class
Requirements. All roll bars must be within 6 inches of the rear or
side of the driver’s head, extend in height at least 3 inches above
the driver’s helmet with driver in normal driving position, and be at
least as wide as the driver’s shoulders or within 1 inch of the
driver’s door. Roll bar must be adequately supported or crossbraced
to prevent forward or lateral collapse. Rear braces must be
of the same diameter and wall thickness as the roll bar and
intersect with the roll bar at a point not more than 5 inches from
the top of the roll bar. Crossbar and rear braces must be welded to
main hoop. Sidebar must be included on driver’s side and must
pass the driver at a point midway between the shoulder and elbow.
Swing-out sidebar permitted. All roll bars must have in their
construction a cross bar for seat bracing and as the shoulder harness
attachment point; cross bar must be installed no more
than 4 inches below, and not above, the driver’s shoulders or to
side bar.

as always, i have BTDT, and sometimes more than once. redo work is backwards motion....

speeding-g60 · Post by **speeding-g60** » Sun Mar 08, 2009 11:33 am

and if you have anymore questions, always glad to help.

6:2 UPHOLSTERY, SEATS
The driver’s seat of any car in competition must be constructed, braced, mounted, and upholstered to provide full back and shoulder support. The driver’s seat must be supported on the bottom and back by the frame or crossmember. Except as noted in SFI Specifications, seats must be bolted with four bolts (and nuts and washers) on the bottom and one bolt in the rear into crossbar; all bolts must go into frame or crossbraces. Ball-lock pins for seat attachment prohibited in all classes. All seats must be upholstered, or as noted under Class or SFI Requirements. Properly braced, framed, supported, and constructed seats of aluminum, fiberglass, carbon fiber, or double-layer poly (accessory seats) permitted. Single-layer fiberglass seats must have steel tube framework, 1/2-inch minimum O.D., for support. Aftermarket aluminum seats must have reinforced head rest. Magnesium seats prohibited.

Zerb · Post by **Zerb** » Sun Mar 08, 2009 1:13 pm

i didnt know that about the actuators. but i will say that i am SURE there is SOME sort of actuator that im looking for in one of the millions of books ive got down at napa. come tomorrow night im pretty certain between looking around tomorrow and my co-workers...ill have a solid solution for that locker.

as far as the seats, thanks for the rules you posted above...and im DEFINITELY going to wait til the cage goes in until i permanently mount the seats, cause i know theres a few nit picky things that i need to abide by.

Zerb · Post by **Zerb** » Mon Mar 09, 2009 12:26 pm

i was thinking perhaps using a PTO cable, because a push/push control cable i think would be too dinky to push the arm on the rear out, that would be the cheap easy way out.

option two would be to buy a linear actuator, and rig that up on there....this would be not so cheap. but cool.

speeding-g60 · Post by **speeding-g60** » Mon Mar 09, 2009 12:35 pm

that was what i was thinking last night, while doing the manual brake setup. small linear actuator. it has maybe an inch of throw..... not so expensive.

Zerb · Post by **Zerb** » Mon Mar 09, 2009 12:37 pm

the ones that i found here at work are like 2 bills....but i havent looked too deeply as of yet.

speeding-g60 · Post by **speeding-g60** » Mon Mar 09, 2009 12:37 pm

or a small servo from an RC car setup maybe.

speeding-g60 · Post by **speeding-g60** » Mon Mar 09, 2009 12:41 pm

http://www.firgelli.com/products.php

first thing i saw....

Zerb · Post by **Zerb** » Mon Mar 09, 2009 12:50 pm

....i just got there, lol

Zerb · Post by **Zerb** » Mon Mar 09, 2009 12:58 pm

this little guy may do the trick....

http://www.firgelli.com/pdf/PQ12_datasheet.pdf

Post by **HT Motorsport** » Mon Mar 09, 2009 1:09 pm

On he seat thing, you also need to add a back support connection to your cage, those seats are very flexy and will fold over in a heavy crash, especially if you spin and hit the wall going backwards.

Definitely wait until the cage is in, then setup the seat, harness bar and back support.

Looks cool though, cant wait to see more

Zerb · Post by **Zerb** » Mon Mar 09, 2009 1:12 pm

thanks for the head up :-)

i was planning on getting the strut housings powdercoated once i get around to it, then put that all back together. then get some wheels and tires and get the thing on the ground. put the cage in and get the seats done and the harnesses and such. then hopefully ill have the block back by then, and the head, assemble the bottom end...get it all in the car for the final time, along with the tranny. and then go to work and have this thing done by waterfest...but we'll see.

speeding-g60 · Post by **speeding-g60** » Mon Mar 09, 2009 1:50 pm

timmmy wrote:On he seat thing, you also need to add a back support connection to your cage, those seats are very flexy and will fold over in a heavy crash, especially if you spin and hit the wall going backwards.

not even just this seat, but anything after 11.49 and down needs to be rear/back supported. you would not believe how many guys get dinged for that at the racetrack.

Wizard-of-OD · Post by **Wizard-of-OD** » Mon Mar 09, 2009 9:58 pm

That was always the issue I found with the Kirky's.Some people love and some people just prefer not to use them.Johnny everything is looking great but you dont need me to tell you that

Roll Cage
Weld
Media Blast
Paint
LETS ROLE.

Zerb · Post by **Zerb** » Thu Mar 12, 2009 4:41 am

got the front coils pretty much finished, just forgot to powdercoat the screw caps :bashtard:, oh well, weekend.

not that you really see them often, but i think the gold/black/silver looks pretty cool.

also got....

my fx700 yesterday

and....

my 10 point cage from S and W

it was pretty much christmas in my garage.

cuatrokoop · Post by **cuatrokoop** » Thu Mar 12, 2009 8:02 am

zerb wrote:i didnt know that about the actuators. but i will say that i am SURE there is SOME sort of actuator that im looking for in one of the millions of books ive got down at napa. come tomorrow night im pretty certain between looking around tomorrow and my co-workers...ill have a solid solution for that locker.

Firgelli Automation. 1" to like 36" strokes available. Takes a DPDT switch or relay to operate. Built in limit switches, NON-ADJUSTABLE. Run a 5A fuse on the +12V feed to your DPDT switch. Small force (sub-10lbs) all the way to 400lb-force. We use them here at work to automate valves in both sustaining and momentary situations (meaning shift a valve fully with the flick of a switch, or give a discreet movement with a momentary input). You would want a sustaining switch.

cuatrokoop · Post by **cuatrokoop** » Thu Mar 12, 2009 8:03 am

Honestly, I'd never run Kirkey's when there are other choices out there. I don't think they are comfortable at all, and I wouldn't trust them even WITH the back-brace.

Zerb · Post by **Zerb** » Thu Mar 12, 2009 8:56 am

i actually dont find those seats too bad at all, especially with the padding that you can buy for them and slip over it...but to each their own.

as far as the switch goes, i ordered JUST that, lol. Firgelli Mini-Actuator....part number pq12f.

http://www.firgelli.com/pdf/PQ12_datasheet.pdf

as far as wiring goes, im not sure if im following this correctly but it seems like you know what youre talking about so ill run it by you, the pdf file says that all that needs to be done is apply voltage (dc) to the actuator and it will open, then reverse the polarity and it will close. (?)

vagrant_mugen · Post by **vagrant_mugen** » Thu Mar 12, 2009 12:30 pm

i was gonna point out, (not to jump on the gang beat-down) but those kirkeys you got are the drag race versions. they make another seat w/ larger side supports that wrap around you.

either way you can always make your own cover to add more padding.....

F'in A, there race seats anyhow....

looking good. im very jelous of your coils and clutch, lucky bastard....

Wizard-of-OD · Post by **Wizard-of-OD** » Thu Mar 12, 2009 12:48 pm

What made you decide to go with the CM unit Jon?

Zerb · Post by **Zerb** » Thu Mar 12, 2009 12:55 pm

no worries on the seat beat down,

only thing about the seats that wrap around a bit more is that they kinda make your arms stay closer to your body while youre sitting in there, idk how else to explain it, hah.

as far as the CM unit, nothing really swayed me in my decision other then that i know they can hold power, and be abused. and i also wanted the steel flywheel as apposed to the lightweight aluminum one.

cuatrokoop · Post by **cuatrokoop** » Thu Mar 12, 2009 5:45 pm

Zerb - We actually don't use those, we use FirgelliAuto.com, as they are 12V vs 5V of Firgelli.com, drawback is the fixed limit switches...