Nice work as usual Derek. Now i am really jonesing to get back in my shop!
Derracuda's Project Alpine 4kq *Comatose*
-
HT Motorsport
- Posts: 350
- Joined: Wed Feb 27, 2013 11:56 am
-
KAPLOWW
-
Wizard-of-OD
-
cuatrokoop
- Posts: 271
- Joined: Thu Mar 07, 2013 11:27 pm
- Location: Findlay, OH
Your eyes deceive you. Those are rather modified by the addition of a backing plate and machining to both for this to work. You cannot go to 5x100 on an Audi 4x108 hub. Take a look at the back side of the hub some time, it has several thin areas where strength was not an issue, or rather where there are no bolt holes and threads.KAPLOWW wrote:Do my eyes decieve me, or did you just redrill your stock hubs to get the bolt pattern you wanted on your hubs?
Makes me wonder if I can squeeze 5x100 into mine... As I have a set of super sweet wheels and brakes I could use if possible... hmmm I might have to take a trip the machine shop!
-
cuatrokoop
- Posts: 271
- Joined: Thu Mar 07, 2013 11:27 pm
- Location: Findlay, OH
-
derracuda
Wizard-of-OD wrote:Nice work D!
Suggestion:
for the front tab on that fabricated subframe,weld a plate below to join the 2 pieces more securely rather than a bead weld.
i'm not done yet man
-
Wizard-of-OD
And why not?cuatrokoop wrote:The box tube section on the front for the SF mount? I can see plating the inboard (vertical-open) side but not the bottom.Wizard-of-OD wrote:Nice work D!
Suggestion:
for the front tab on that fabricated subframe,weld a plate below to join the 2 pieces more securely rather than a bead weld.
-
derracuda
two words... YA HOO
285/30/18 is a good deal shorter than 265/35/18.... and more square... and fit my car much better
you know that feeling when you score a touch down and you pull your arm down and go " UUHHHH" .... i did that
about an inch shorter over all, but about an inch more contact patch on the ground
and in comparison to my old ronals, they aren't so much in the way out at the fenders..
turbo twist with 285/30/18
ronal with 215/40/17
285/30.....
vs. 265/35....
now with the 285's, i can turn the wheel and tire just about all the way as far as stock without hitting anything inside the wheel well 8) and i still have a trick up my sleeve for .5-.75" more clearance up front by just pulling the front edge of the fender out a little. the stock plastic fender liner holds the fender where it's at, but if that's modified.... mmm, a touch more room is available and greatfully recieved 8)
stock tires are wieny sized!
285/30/18 is a good deal shorter than 265/35/18.... and more square... and fit my car much better
about an inch shorter over all, but about an inch more contact patch on the ground
and in comparison to my old ronals, they aren't so much in the way out at the fenders..
turbo twist with 285/30/18
ronal with 215/40/17
285/30.....
vs. 265/35....
now with the 285's, i can turn the wheel and tire just about all the way as far as stock without hitting anything inside the wheel well 8) and i still have a trick up my sleeve for .5-.75" more clearance up front by just pulling the front edge of the fender out a little. the stock plastic fender liner holds the fender where it's at, but if that's modified.... mmm, a touch more room is available and greatfully recieved 8)
stock tires are wieny sized!
-
cuatrokoop
- Posts: 271
- Joined: Thu Mar 07, 2013 11:27 pm
- Location: Findlay, OH
-
nismo
-
derracuda
nismo wrote:Hey Derek, any thoughts about modding a 4x108 into 5x108 and then doing 5x108 to 5x112 or 5x130? Would that be a worse idea?
Eric
i could probably build whatever you like using this method... one hole will always interfere, but i think i might have a solution for that.
thanks Mark! i'm looking forward to driving this thing with this much rubber on the road
-
thegetawaycar
-
derracuda
-
thegetawaycar
-
Wizard-of-OD
-
WAUG0806
a little doodle of taking the idea further...
why not machine the original hub down smaller than the diameter of the old holes (or new bolt circle if going smaller) and thinner to accept a plate on each side and make 2 plates (possibly identical pieces in front and behind)
this way you could drill for various new bolt circles and have new metal around new stud holes...
you would probably need to "pin" new plates to old hub to make sure they could not spin on you... or maybe use countersunk machine screws like the ones that (used to) hold rotors to hubs...
just a thought
<edit> could probably make a single plate with a smaller inner hole and make it work too
Attachment ( 11381 ) : hub sandwich.JPG
why not machine the original hub down smaller than the diameter of the old holes (or new bolt circle if going smaller) and thinner to accept a plate on each side and make 2 plates (possibly identical pieces in front and behind)
this way you could drill for various new bolt circles and have new metal around new stud holes...
you would probably need to "pin" new plates to old hub to make sure they could not spin on you... or maybe use countersunk machine screws like the ones that (used to) hold rotors to hubs...
just a thought
<edit> could probably make a single plate with a smaller inner hole and make it work too
Attachment ( 11381 ) : hub sandwich.JPG
-
derracuda
Wizard-of-OD wrote::? ...Both will do the same Job fergie.cuatrokoop wrote:Because it wouldn't add as much rigidity as enclosing the open side of the tube.
Back to the topic @ Hand.Derek you redoing the front as well?
yes... engine/trans needs to go back 1" and down 1". the front suspension points need moving as well, and i'll be incorporating the new front subframe as an engine/trans cradle like the newer audi cars. plus it'll be a little more tied into the frame than the stocker for rigidity.
-
derracuda
-
rs2coupe
Amazing stuff Derek... I am very impressed. Interested to see what the final product looks like. For my rs2coupe project however I'd like to stick with OEM bits to get her rolling...but I definitely want you to working on her. Parts are still coming in so I'll let you know.
on topic; your 4k is looking mighty brutal
on topic; your 4k is looking mighty brutal
-
bimmerboy