audifreakjim wrote:Dinner would be cool with me, whatever works for Javad.
Jim Green's 90q 20vt - 636whp 07k
- audifreakjim
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Gots the rear sway bar on. The car seems to turn in much better now. I've tried tossing it around a little, but only a good track beating will tell. Looks like May 13th is the next auto-x. I may dig up another 22mm bar for the rear. The 26mm has me lifting rear wheels over every incline I drive up at an angle. Not a big deal though.
Can you jack the car up at one corner and have that entire end of the car come up with it? Did that once with a buddy's A4 with suspension and H-Sports. Super impressive, there was NO difference in how the doors opened at all (I can notice some in my car), and the car came right up...made stuff like that easy and fast!
Sam
Sam
Sam Stone
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Shawn M.
- audifreakjim
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OK, here's some pics. It was a pretty easy install, I just got some 3/16" angle iron and welded some tabs to the control arms. Then welded 3/16" plates to the subframe for the bushings. The links didn't require any mods, they fit right into the stock sway bar. I did have to modify the bushings. It seems 26mm bushings are not available from Energy, and special order from other places. I used some 25 mm bushings and cut a little shim off the bottom that filled the gap caused by the larger bar. The good news is 22mm bushings are readily available if you want to use the stock 4kq front bar
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WAUG0806
Jim,
Hard to tell from the pics, but are the subframe brackets also welded to the boxed structure where the tie rods bolt on?
Different approach, elegant & simple - I followed Martin's lead and used the tie rod bolts to hold the bracket...
See yellow arrow...
TIA
Attachment ( 4247 ) : Jim RR Bar.JPG
Hard to tell from the pics, but are the subframe brackets also welded to the boxed structure where the tie rods bolt on?
Different approach, elegant & simple - I followed Martin's lead and used the tie rod bolts to hold the bracket...
See yellow arrow...
TIA
Attachment ( 4247 ) : Jim RR Bar.JPG
- audifreakjim
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WAUG0806
- audifreakjim
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So how long can installing four little switches take? 1.5 days. This started Saturday and didn't finish until about an hr ago. I've been wanting to do this for a while, but have been putting it off because I new it would turn into a crazy project.
#1 Map select switch for the ECU! Very cool
#2 "Arm" switch for switch #4
#3 Electric PS pump switch. Now I can shut off the PS pump when I have the ign on I'm not driving the car. Sweet.
#4 The coolest switch of them all. Launch control activation on the clutch pedal. This was kind of a PITA because a normal brake or clutch switch just wouldn't work for me. I needed to use a brake switch because it closes the circuit when you push in the pedal. The clutch cruise control switch is opposite of this. The problem with a normal brake switch is that there is very little travel on it which means that even resting your foot on the clutch pedal closes the circuit. I wanted it to transition right at clutch engagement/disengagement. I needed about 3 times the travel. So I started cutting, and installed a stiff spring where the shaft of the switch used to be.
So how does it work? Freaken amazing. It takes some getting used to, but there is NO turbo lag between shifts now if you just keep your right foot on the floor and let the 2nd rev limiter do its thing between shifts. In fact it just jerks you back as the clutch tries to get ahold of the instant rush of power. :woowoo:
#1 Map select switch for the ECU! Very cool
#2 "Arm" switch for switch #4
#3 Electric PS pump switch. Now I can shut off the PS pump when I have the ign on I'm not driving the car. Sweet.
#4 The coolest switch of them all. Launch control activation on the clutch pedal. This was kind of a PITA because a normal brake or clutch switch just wouldn't work for me. I needed to use a brake switch because it closes the circuit when you push in the pedal. The clutch cruise control switch is opposite of this. The problem with a normal brake switch is that there is very little travel on it which means that even resting your foot on the clutch pedal closes the circuit. I wanted it to transition right at clutch engagement/disengagement. I needed about 3 times the travel. So I started cutting, and installed a stiff spring where the shaft of the switch used to be.
So how does it work? Freaken amazing. It takes some getting used to, but there is NO turbo lag between shifts now if you just keep your right foot on the floor and let the 2nd rev limiter do its thing between shifts. In fact it just jerks you back as the clutch tries to get ahold of the instant rush of power. :woowoo:
- audifreakjim
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- audifreakjim
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Sick! :bashtard:audifreakjim wrote:So how does it work? Freaken amazing. It takes some getting used to, but there is NO turbo lag between shifts now if you just keep your right foot on the floor and let the 2nd rev limiter do its thing between shifts. In fact it just jerks you back as the clutch tries to get ahold of the instant rush of power. :woowoo:
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gidrew
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It's really easy to see once you're under there. It's just a plate that goes from the main subframe, to the metal that supports the tie rod. If I pull it off for drag racing I'll snap a pic.
Small update: I just finished replacing a brand new coolant expansion tank that I got from AutohausAZ. The Mehyle once are complete crap! If you get a new one, make sure it's foggy, says Audi on it and has fiber in it, if it's clear send it back.
Small update: I just finished replacing a brand new coolant expansion tank that I got from AutohausAZ. The Mehyle once are complete crap! If you get a new one, make sure it's foggy, says Audi on it and has fiber in it, if it's clear send it back.