The Project Pad

Ok no more 'Brake light' warning, yay!
Earthing the red wire did the trick.
Thanks Austin!

Like I said above I'm trying to fix the sunroof at the moment,
Anyone else found a fuse before this relay?


Do I also have a missing relay on the left hand side middle row?

So I bought another sunroof relay to try and see if it is that at fault.

In the meantime I fixed the passenger window, it wouldn't roll down from the driver switch, it worked perfect from passenger switch. It would also go up by the drivers switch.

So I removed to test the switch, it tried plugging the harness into the driver's window switch first and viola! It worked. So I definitely knew it was the switch.

I stripped the switch and cleaned up the contacts with emery paper.
And it's good as new.. Well except I tested the switch with a screwdriver and shorted the LED, whoops!

Nice, I'll have to give that a try on mine since the rear two windows don't even try to work. I think it's an open circuit due to corrosion from lack of use (probably like yours).

Does yours not work from any switch, front or back?
My rear drivers one doesn't work from either switch so I think it maybe something more....

Yep, not from any switch. I wasn't sure if it's wired in series or something such that if one switch was bad, the others are too. Could be a bad motor I guess, but usually you at least hear them trying.

Damn, I changed the window/sunroof relay 286. And also changed the smaller relay at the sunroof motor.
Nothing. :-( not even a click at the relay.

Makes me think there's a more serious fault such as a break in the wiring somewhere.

Wondering if I could test the motor by powering it directly.
Which colors get what at the motor is my next investigation....

So while I was underneath the car chopping out part of the exhaust and welding in new pipe and hangers. I remembered a couple of things that needed doing, the drivers side rear caliper eBrake isn't working and the flex hose is splitting near the caliper.
I ordered a new caliper. I already have the flex hose, which I didn't fit last year because I knew it would probably shear off in the caliper.

The driver side rear upper tie rod had loads of play, I'm pretty sure I could feel the slop while cornering.
I also changed out the very dirty air filter.

Good work! Mine had those replaced recently too. Seems like one of the biggest contributors to play in the rear suspension.

The end of my throttle cam snapped. Not sure what it's meant to look like. But it must have happened yesterday, as the throttle stuck open and hit the rev limiter, twice.

What do you guys do to fix this issue?

Your choices are either zip ties or 034 makes a billet throttle cam.

Ah get ya, thanks Chris.
Does the 034 part have a different way to attach the cable end?

I believe it attaches the same way. But I also remember someone selling machined throttle cable ends, so you'd have both bases covered!

I seem to remember a billet one floating around on s2forum as well. It may or may not have been strictly as a group buy. Worth a look... I've never heard any good reviews of the 034 one, due to poor machining tolerances.

http://www.theprojectpad.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=1512

Not sure how effective this is, but here you go anyway.

Also available from Marc http://www.efiexpress.com/catalog/produ ... cts_id=135

Thanks for the links guys, that machined cable end is a novel idea.
It's funny as last night I was thinking of making up a very similar piece, I was going to make mine with a drill and a hacksaw, not machined as nicely as that!

Well I made a cable end piece from a bit of aluminum I had laying around.
Yesterday I had almost the same idea as that machined one in the link above.
As I'm only making a 1 off I just used some hand tools to make it.
Does the job quite nicely, and didn't cost me anything but an hour of my time.

well done - Looks like a nice hand made piece

Cool! Nice handiwork.

My parking brake is Non-operational on the rear left and the flex hose is split.
I remember this split hose was the initial reason I decided to work on the brakes last year, to replace all the flex hoses, but when I tackled the rear right the old flex hose sheared off in the caliper, so replaced that caliper, the flex hose, the hard lines up to the brake bias valve, and did the front flex hoses.
But I was too chicken to try and undo the rear left flex hose as I assumed it would shear off in the caliper and for some reason I couldn't seem to source a rear left caliper at that time.



Anyway fast-forward to today and I sourced a new rear left caliper (or so I thought)
After a few failed attempts with Autozone, where they sold me a caliper which was probably for a 20v, then the correct 20V caliper, but the rear left. The rear right is Out of stock.

I ordered one off Ebay, and its still not the correct one, it looks identical to my old one but 10mm too narrow.






I think I found the correct PN 853615424AX, but I cant find any reputable places that have it in stock.
Any suggestions?

I believe the one you got was for a 20v chassis which uses a solid rear disc and not vented, which requires a shorter caliper.

Yeah it's not right.
Autozone gave me 2 wrong calipers and then this is the 3rd wrong one.
I don't really trust anyone to get the correct part now.

Anyone have any recommended suppliers?

Getting hold of a new (correct) caliper is a nightmare.
Hopefully Chris at force5 has come up trumps and mailed me one.

In the meantime I have 3 vehicles and only one is working, the one in the middle of the photo below, and it's pedal powered.

Well Chris came through and sent me a brand new rear caliper.
I had to pay twice what I paid last year but I guess he knew he had the only one!





However after all that, the parking brake still doesn't grab on this side!
The cam on the caliper is at it's max stop so there's no more travel available.
I put new pads in too, did I have to wind out the piston or something?

I had a good day and not as good day today with the 200.
First I managed to fit a Keyless entry kit - a Falcon Phaser which I had bought from the UK a few years ago.
The wiring diagram in the instructions was useless but I figured out all that is needed is to splice into the switch wire from the compressor to simulate the key being turned. It can all be done right next to the battery too, took about 1 hour because I'm pretty crap with wiring.
I've not wired up the horn or the turn signals to flash, but you can hear and see the locks going which enough for me.