2.0L20v90Q...white wheels it is!!

autoxtrëm · Post by **autoxtrëm** » Sat Sep 12, 2009 2:18 am

controling boost with your wg like that will be harder, plus the flow wants to pass the hole you made so your not helping directing air to the wg. might see extra psi over the spring so maybe start with lower spring to make sure you don't overboost and blow it up. can't wait to see it fnish

Zerb · Post by **Zerb** » Sat Sep 12, 2009 4:34 am

i cant wait til its finished either, lol.

and ya, i thought that putting the wg there may be a wee bit of a problem as far as boost control goes, but thats where it ended up fitting with the motor mount bracket and all, so thats where it went. i tried to get it as close to the collector as i could, but it just wouldnt've fit tighter.

Zerb · Post by **Zerb** » Sat Sep 26, 2009 12:30 pm

my bud made me my fuel rail this past week. got some -8 male ends welded to either side, and had the injector holes made. looks pretty, seems to line up perfectly, and now its on the top of the 'things to powdercoat' pile.

speeding-g60 · Post by **speeding-g60** » Sat Sep 26, 2009 1:19 pm

dont forget to weld the tabs on it to hold it to the manifold.... after its put into the cups after they are screwed into the manifold.

and why cant you make power like Mike? LMFAO!!!!!

Zerb · Post by **Zerb** » Sat Sep 26, 2009 1:29 pm

helll to the ya. i just gotta get things final fitted on the motor before i do little odds and ends like those tabs.

i mean you ran 10 more psi, shouldt you have made like 150 more hp? hahahahahaha

Zerb · Post by **Zerb** » Sat Nov 21, 2009 2:56 pm

im still alive update. car was gone for a bit getting the cage welded in. now its back, i gotta paint the cage, then itll go off to my buddies shop once hes ready for paint. then final assembly. holler.

few pics of the welds, and the wire harness that i made as well.

speeding-g60 · Post by **speeding-g60** » Sun Nov 22, 2009 9:31 am

take a wire wheel on the grinder and knock all the little crap you can off. maybe a chisel if needed to knock away all the little BB's.... and right after you grind the welds with the wire wheel, paint them.

that weld, where the hoop comes down and the "D" bar goes inward to the floor, in the last picture, that weld is a bitch, huh.... hard to get at.

aned welding the floor plates is the suck, too.

i am not going to get it looked at until i am fast enough to need it looked at. its a 2 year cert, so why start it early?

Zerb · Post by **Zerb** » Sun Nov 22, 2009 10:23 am

took a wire wheel to it already. then immediately primed it and just got done painting it, lol. pics later. i just didnt do the floor pieces yet because i have to do a bit more welding on those before i final spray them. i do wish i went with a tubular front end at this point in time though like you did. the friend who was welding it asked why i didnt cause...."what happens when you hit the wall with this thing since you cant drive for schit and you wreck everything in the engine bay, but inside is fine"...to which i agreed with him but added that my ass will be in the car, not the engine bay. and i also think ill be replacing those aluminum tie rods that i made with steel ones, cause im not trying to have those break on me.

tsin · Post by **tsin** » Sun Nov 22, 2009 4:25 pm

what injectors do you use?

speeding-g60 · Post by **speeding-g60** » Sun Nov 22, 2009 4:30 pm

ID1000's.....

Zerb · Post by **Zerb** » Sun Nov 22, 2009 5:08 pm

holler for a dollar. injector dynamis 1000cc injectors, supplied my Kevin "Lugnuts" Black.

at least that what i WILL run once my car is together, lol.

Zerb · Post by **Zerb** » Sun Nov 22, 2009 6:15 pm

painted low gloss black.

psychorallyfreak · Post by **psychorallyfreak** » Sun Nov 22, 2009 6:19 pm

Those rear bars should go to the strut towers.

Zerb · Post by **Zerb** » Sun Nov 22, 2009 6:22 pm

i actually wanted to bring those bars down to the frame rails in the back. but i opted not to. those bars attach to a a bar that runs from strut tower to strut tower.

psychorallyfreak · Post by **psychorallyfreak** » Sun Nov 22, 2009 6:24 pm

Which isn't really gonna do a whole lot of good, since the bars don't work very well with bending loads.... Hence the need for triangulation.

Zerb · Post by **Zerb** » Sun Nov 22, 2009 6:30 pm

interesting. i ran this by a few others that have built cages and was told that this should work out just fine.

RSCoupe · Post by **RSCoupe** » Mon Nov 23, 2009 9:06 am

psychorallyfreak wrote:Those rear bars should go to the strut towers.

:stupid:

They are to far inboard. Also, the other end is a little far from the corner junction. It would have been best to have them tie into the corner of the main hoop, where the upper roof bars come in. As is, any load transfer from a crash will really bend those bars, leading to failure.
The main thing to remember when building a cage is that all the main bars should be triangulated.

Zerb · Post by **Zerb** » Wed Nov 25, 2009 9:54 pm

well, this was my first attempt at a cage ever....so i guess you live and you learn. one thing to remember here is that im also just building this car to go fast in a straight line and have a few spirited drives through the backroads of mid-upstate NY, not going to any type of sanctioned road course events. im aware safe cage building is safe cage building, just throwing that out there though.

Zerb · Post by **Zerb** » Sun Feb 07, 2010 5:39 pm

so, i havent touched the car much lately, ive been busy purchasing my first house and setting up the garage...oh and waiting on getting the head back from QED, then i can put the motor together. and hopefully in that time i will have the car painted. i also ordered my new turbo for the project, i HAD a t3t67 dbb, sold that and decided to go with a new precision billet unit, a 6765 to be exact. t3 footprint still, these things have made 920awhp on 2.0l evo motors, with the same spool up as the old school t3t67's, im not shooting for that much at all, but im sure itll make some serious power.

i know i was decided on some sort of red, but ive been seeing a few cars painted this color online and it was my original color, and im sticking with it.

Satin Black, mmmmmm.

the effect will be made by using just some normal black base coat, then i purchased a matte clear coat. which is mixed with another glossing agent depending on HOW glossy you actually want it.

EES · Post by **EES** » Sun Feb 07, 2010 6:28 pm

I love that look. I first fell for it with the Honda 599

The guy I sold my 4ktq to repainted it satin black. If you can look past the wheels I think it looks awesome.

Can't wait to see what yours looks like.

Zerb · Post by **Zerb** » Sun Feb 07, 2010 7:01 pm

Ya, I've always been a fan of the color too. I've even seen it done with spray bombs and it doesn't look half bad sometimes. I figured satin black everything in the bay, powdercoat, ss braided line for everything. Should look cool once it comes together.

speeding-g60 · Post by **speeding-g60** » Sun Feb 07, 2010 8:48 pm

murdered out....

but make the bay a light color. even silver. it will allow you to spot leaks and such easily.

Zerb · Post by **Zerb** » Sun Feb 21, 2010 3:28 pm

so, i did make the exhaust go out the rear of the car...but after seeing haydn's project thread and then finding some cool oval tubing in the exhaust book at work the other day. i had to go out the side, and through the rocker.

here's the preliminary pics, i'm going to fill the front in (the red in the picture) with sheet metal, grind it all flat and be done.

Zerb · Post by **Zerb** » Sun Feb 21, 2010 6:53 pm

few hours later update...

Longitudinal · Post by **Longitudinal** » Sun Feb 21, 2010 7:08 pm

Is that oval tube going to be the passage the exhaust pipe passes through or the exhaust pipe itself? If the latter, it is way too close a fit as it is.