The Project Pad

Aktapod wrote:Shokan is great when you're in a bind, but they can be pretty pricey!

This! Although... I did manage to get my hubs for the 5x112 swap from them for a fair price. Hit or miss, I suppose.

Apologies to that other fella for high jacking his bluetooth thread. My "affordable" asus android tablet smacked the concrete 2 days ago while I was throwing it like a frizbee from my hand as I walked to my place. It was pretty cool. Battery came unplugged inside and it played dead until dismantling.

In comes the insignia (bestbuy I'm told?) Windows 8.1 tablet with bluetooth I got new locally without the box for $40 off the retail price. So awesome, this thing! It connects to the BT dongle really well so I can log/tune all on the same interface. I made a gauge face that resembles my 4 most important gauges from VEMSdisplay. I even tried bluetacks android emulator to get back that app I miss already :( It took some coaxing to even get bluetacks to work on a 1 gb ram OS but I only knew what to google so I didn't hack any of it myself lol.

Well I got VEMSdisplay to start and all but it sticks at the point of asking my "phone" to turn on bluetooth. It was all a bust. I hears interesting things about apps interfacing perfectly using the emulator but this sucked.

Below is the strange over-cooling I get sometimes after cruising for awhile in weather colder than 60F. That's the lowest it's gone. I haven't checked if that brings it back into warmup enrichment or not. I don't think the t-Stat is bad since this only happens sometimes. Also the radiator stopped leaking I think I said that before though.

When your dash gauge goes that low, what does your VEMS gauge show? My 80 apparent has the wrong MFTS, and I always show low temperatures in the dash, but the gauge on tunerstudio shows the true story.

I think you're onto something there but it's the oem mfts. The vems gauge said 89C when that happened I think. At the time I just figured that it took the temperature from a different spot like the water manifold or something

I think you're saying I should buy a new (and oem-correct!) Mfts just to be sure since it's so old already lol.

Almost got side swiped by a massive mercury SUV with gaudy chrome rims tonight. It was full of either stoners or drunks. I was back behind them at the light after and I guess they thought I was taking down their plate hah. They opened the window and one began to speak but I didn't turn down my stereo, but instead nodded and gave a stupid ass grin instead to which the guy lost his friendly smile for some reason. They were, afterall, attempting to combine our vehicles into one, all without warning me with a signal.

The part that got me though was when I SLAMMED on the fresh brakes, I was letdown when they didn't even lock up or activate the ABS. The 5k never locks up either I don't think. All my brothers cars in the past could do that so idk.

Yesterday evening I was coming home (prior to Halloween hours, mind you) and a beat ass buick regal I think came up beside me and the owner inquired about the audi and he recognized it basically as that sleeper audi from the old days with a "big" turbo. I said it was the very same one
I hate street racing but my curiosity got the best of me after he told me he was driving a supercharged/swapped buick motor in that beater she'll he was steering. I immediately recognized the motor from the youtube video paying tribute to sleeper cars/motors. He was running 12 lbs and tuned it using a GTP ecu, which I knew of but didn't realize they could be tweaked by the user. Pretty awesome.

So he got a 10 foot head start at the light before I even fully decided to get into first gear lol. The whole time up to 80, he stayed at the same distance ahead of me that his auto trans gave him (and my indecisiveness). Pretty damn quick car. Too bad I was in another sort of hurry to go to another location instead of pulling into a has station ahead to see his car. He told me to swing by their garage anyway some day.

Sorry, no dyno numbers according to him. Would've at least shown somewhat where my car sits now. Good times

Nice, those are the best of times and of races

This video always makes me laugh

https://youtu.be/EUrfIW4zQmM

When I used to drive my 200 in winter, the temp gauge would be even lower. Never affected how the car drove or how well my heat worked. I had a 100 fwd 5cyl that was the same way too. I didn't ever check to see what the actual temp was while running at that spot on the temp gauge.

Nice thabks for the reassurance.

Funny story. Silver 5000's rear brake line esploded so it went in for new. The garage broke off both my rear caliper bleeder valves so now my extra (wrong) set from the 200 is getting a new lease on life in the 5000. Life's funny like that

88a5tq wrote:This video always makes me laugh

https://youtu.be/EUrfIW4zQmM

There is a dyno video of that car floating around from some point. I believe it made 370whp or so in that video, no idea if it's still the same spec or not.

Ya thats pretty amazing for a rather normal looking buick, GN not counted

Dyno is at the very end of that video. It's a bit long-winded in the lead up though

My girls
My LED reverse bulbs REALLY worked out well

Also found that my coolant temp dropping in cold weather is dropping the car back into warm up. Fixed that easily enough

Attn. Chris

Should be able to get on it tomorrow night! I work tomorrow so if i get downtime I'll take a look.

Hell ya!

That log file doesn't do me a whole lotta good for adjusting your idle. I just need a short one where you rev it up and replicate the problem with it dipping too low or bouncing or whatever.

*edit* From the little I can see however, it appears the IAC doesn't have enough control authority to do much of anything.

Interesting. Sorry for its time length. The problem occurs only usually during everyday driving and coming to a light coasting from a higher rpm. I will increase my P value first. Thank you and sorry you're working on TG :(

some quick messing has brought my lowest rpm drop up 75 rpm to 450 lol. im chipping away at it. the part about it that gets me everytime is the shear minute-ness of results brought about by massive PID alterations!

Suddenly I'm very suspicious of my valve stem seals and they're slightly leaky nature. I think that's my idle dip's cause. They were brand new when I had the head refurbished like 10k miles ago. Can anyone please give a source for their trusted valve stem seals? These were even viton I believe. Schwagen has had his new seals go bad as well.

Jeff has good ones.

I don't think that's your idle problem though. If you can pinpoint me to a good example of what you're talking about in the file, I may be able to help more. I think I found a few, but I wasn't sure if that was what you were talking about. Either way, in order to get a clean tune on that IAC, we need a clean impulse for it. Meaning, I need to see what it looks like dropping from a high RPM without any further input from you or the dynamics of the car (from a free rev in neutral would best). Again, it's all about eliminating variables.

Anyway, at first glance I was thinking you might want to try lowering "D" significantly. It may be the reason why your response is a bit sluggish and why large changes in "P" aren't doing much.

Thanks for your sentiments on working on Thanksgiving, but I'm good man! I am thankful to have a good job

By the way, your cars look great in that picture, especially the 20v! I always wished I could find one in Black or another dark color. My avant is close enough to dark I guess lol.

Thanks for the kind words somebody saw me at the gas station and said the 20v was the sexy one and asked why I even drive the 5k. I've been through alot with the 5k and it's sentimental. It's not about "looks" for me hah. With the 200, it's the total package for me. Great car and great colors..

I did a big overhaul on the PID and also changed my EGO correction %'s on a hunch. I think it's much better now! I left the lean limit at 0 and rich at 15% and that seemed to fix it up quite alot. I sometimes need an unbiased opinion when working with vems thanks for all the hints over the months.

I have 2 updates mainly for you, Chris.

Firstly, my PID settings appear to have been completely hindered by my poor guess-work on the actual initial hardware settings in VEMS for the idle valve. WAAAAAT off and it was causing my idle to rebound so hard along with my high P setting to my idle fuel cut at 1800 rpm. It's pretty funny to me now as I can see this all happening and how it was intertwined. I shake my head about it now of course If anyone still struggling with the initial setup wants, I'd be glad to posy my cfg for them to see all the settings involved in it. Took me 2 yrs to get this far hah.

Lastly (out of two updates), I have an update on the 5000 and it's dead battery problems. I had the new battery die again after sitting for a week. I then changed the alternator a few weeks later from lack of charging. I think all along my alternator diode was the problem although I have yet to put the trunk bulb back in yet. May e today to see and test the bulb switch. For 2 years tho the alternator was charging but eating up amperage while sitting apparently.

Perhaps there's an intermittent or otherwise issue with your second car's alternator besides the trunk light switch that is hard to catch like with mine?

Hope this helps someone out there

Hmm, yeah that'll do it. What did you change about the idle valve hardware settings?

Hopefully Marc putting the new engine in my sedan will solve my weird battery drain issue that only appeared after I pulled and reinstalled my old engine...

So you are happy overall with how your car is tuned now? Anything else remaining to fix on it?