The Project Pad

imho left side will bend by this red line. everything else
i didn't have so much patience on engine mounts

Attachment ( 13434 ) : DSC00214.jpg

:stupid:

i cant draw it right now. but think flat plate, then take two gussets from ~3" up from plate surface @ body, one on either side, and taper out to 0" at the ends where it will have the motor mount.... think bookshelf upsidedown. this will not break.

http://www.popsfurniture.com/mfg-maywoo ... ction.html

think this but turn it upside down.

ok...i think im following this...so if i leave the two main plates that i have there, then cut a traingular piece for each one that would be welded along the length of the plate from the body to the mount, and then go vertically onto the frame as well to be welded, then id be in good shape?

yup. when i am not driving i will round up pix of my front mount, its this wai. if it were me i would make the plate one piece though... just me i guess....

something more along the lines of this here...(?)

oh yeah.... now we are cooking with butter.

think of it in the sense that it is much harder to bend a piece of angle iron than it is to bend a flat plate.

oh yeah, that little emoticon from the page before looked to me like a retarded ninja?

hahaha, i know, thats what i thought too, i was like....damn, this guy is harsh, lol

i tried making that one bracket one piece, but it didnt work out too well...ill give it another shot tomorrow though once i get another sheet of metal to cut up

I finally got my car back, im going to look at the bracket code right now.

im sorry i didnt do it yesterday, i had a bad weekend with the girlfriend and myheads all fucked up. :( :tard:

so hold on a tick and ill get the pass. side bracket number....

zerb wrote: 8A0 199 308 J

my bracket says 8A0 199 308 with no prefix at the end. :?
my drivers side is a 307 C , but i think you guys cant use that with the chain-pump blocks.

correct, i have that mount that you have, but it will not bolt to my block. the 'J' on the end of the part number makes a diffrence i guess.

went back at it today making the mount to the frame, tilted the mount on the car a bit so that the metal wasnt so long coming off the frame, cause it wasnt really looking too sweet. also made three gussits like they should be made, not like my first attempt, lol. enjoy the pics...

is what i am talkin about... that shit wont break

good, lol...thanks to you...cause otherwise i woulda made that shit all whack like the first attempt...

box number two of many more arrived today @ work. ill let the pics do the talking...

this is what i have to work with as far as a downpipe goes....



im going to put shorter studs in the bottom i think to make this task a bit easier, and i will taking the mount bracket off to get to them as well, that should make it cake....





gt35r hotness....



and a pic of the JHM shifter for good measure...

wheres the pics of the welded out driver side mount

im getting there, i gotta get my friends welder here. you think stick or mig would be better for that? ( i dont weld personally so idk much about whats best for what, lol)

MIG... body steel is kinda thin for stick, unless you turn down the heat and run 3/32 rod......

Do you have that TPS out?

going to start on dowpipe construction this weekend i hope...and from what ive seen people normally go in between the mani and the tie rod, but im just not seeing how i will fit three inch pipe through there without it moving the slightest bit and rubbing something...so my idea was to go over the tie rod, towards the firewall...then down and around tha axle....?

you can see its not bad here...



but once you put the wg on...

Using a "bent" tie rod will give you a little more room for the downpipe:

http://www.034motorsport.com/product_in ... cts_id=214

i saw that after i posted, and then looked at javads 80tw page and saw that that was how he had his set-up, maybe thats just going to be the way i have to do it...

the tough part about the bent tie-rod, or bending the tie rod that i have now, is that you can see in the picture that the WG is actually a restriction of space too. and going OVER the tie rod then coming back and going down around the axle isnt the cleanest/easiest option either. this may sound crazy, but me and a bud were looking at it before and thinking about taking it right over the tie rod, then taking a bit of the floor out and going down the tunnel with it, then re-welding some sheet metal back onto the body to make a new floor and wa-la. this would make for a nice smooth gradual bend til it goes straight back down the tunnel.

OR

making a tube to bolt on the manifold and move the wastegate to a different area, towards the front of the car, then dropping the downpipe down through there.

you shouldve made an equal-length header from butt-weld pipe. i managed to gain lots of room for my downpipe. theres one spot where its close to this tab on the tranny, but its not used so i could lop it off, then i think i could run 4" without too much trouble.

ended up cutting the floor out after bending four tie rods, breaking one, and just not liking ANYTHING that we came up with. still need to cut a bit more a think to get a better angle, but we'll see...







now if i can only get this box out of the car to cut a bit more.... :bashtard:

its loose, but i cant figure out HOW to get it out.

it is connected on the firewall side on the AC hoses... and the coolant line hoses... i tore mine out in 3 parts IIRC.