Mars 83 MC2

[auditrippin]

Picked up my urq in CO off Craigslist almost 2 years ago now. I promptly tore the suspension off of it and the front end. Front bumper, hood, rear spoiler and side mirrors are currently at paint shop. The car is pretty rust free but has some scrapes and dings from being used as it was deserved in the CO mountains. The MC2 was swapped in around 96 from the receipts I have. Unfortunately they did not upgrade the engine harness.

I ended up tossing the 2B coils on quickly with spare 034 bushings I had laying around as life got busy. Now I am finally moved into my new house with my newly 1st and only wife. Anyway, tonight I pulled off the front suspension to see why I had so much side to side play. Seems the 034 strut mounts are collapsed. So I put some Meyel units on them, still may order the AK solid mounts.

Here are my plans for the car

Engine, It is staying with the MC2 as it ran pretty good with it. The MC2 supposedly had 50k miles on it when swapped in and another 50k on it in the urq. I am looking for a K24 turbo. I have also sourced an MC2 harness with stock ECU. Although a couple connectors on the harness have been clipped. So I am still on the look out for another complete harness. The MC2 harness also came with an uninstalled "F1" chip. I can not find any info on that, so I may or may not use it. Would really like another ECU with chip already installed from a known running car. Also have a 7A windage tray I think I'll install while the front suspension is out. On the shelf is all new 034 cooling hoses including the aux rad. Picked up an RS2 fan cage and 200 20v fan, looking into the 2B radiator. I live in phoenix and want good cooling.

I parted a complete 4kq not too long after buying the urq. I saved almost everything. Uncut interior harness, all the dash components, Vacuum boost, etc.

Brakes
-Reman URS4 rear calipers with 4kq e-brake cables. Saved the E-brake mechanism off the 4kq to make this work
-Fronts are stock for now
-4kq vac booster/ PS pump

Suspernsion
-2b coil overs with Konis
-4kq rear subframe, Going to cut and weld the rear sway bar brackets onto the 4kq unit
-all new bushings, front pretty much done. May order AK mounts while I have the front apart right now.

The intimidating stuff
-Swapping the 4kq interior harness with complete 4kq dash set up and fuse box. The PO said the under dash fuse box has been "perminately fixed" What ever that means
-Installing MC2 harness

I should say when I got the car it had been ran off the road and then parked. It had a big gash in the oil pan and one of the front hubs completely separated and was tore up. Driggs hooked me up with a hub and I had new wheel bearing pressed in both the fronts. Installed the 7a pan, but faught with the windage tray. Although while I am this far into the front suspension again I will try to install it. Also did new new TB/WP and fuel filter.

So here are some pics and I should be able to update on my night shifts. Please feel free to comment and offer suggestions!

Coming home and at my bachelor pad.





How I found the front hub



Snub mount bracket broken too. Not sure if I found the proper replacement or not. Still digging out parts.



Suspension together





Parts 4kq. The odo on this one was 23k miles.... Guy I purchased it from guessed it had 60k on it. He was screwing around in the desert and found a ditch, bent the car in the middle.... Stupid clean car.



Bumper work. Buddy of mine at work took on this project. He was a body guy and does a little side business now. Hopefully he shoots paint soon







In it's new home

[PRY4SNO]

Awesome first post. Looking forward to more updates.

[DE80q]

That is a nice car! So you are going to keep the CIS? With changing to the MAC14, make sure the CIS is the correct one. I believe the MC2 metering head is different.

[Afterthought]

You got that car for a steal, man. Steal.


Azev A's on the wall going to go on it?

[auditrippin]

That is a nice car! So you are going to keep the CIS? With changing to the MAC14, make sure the CIS is the correct one. I believe the MC2 metering head is different.

I planned on staying CIS, I never had any issue with it in any of my B2's. Thank you for the heads up. I am pretty sure everything is KX but the block and head in the car. Ideally I would find a 200 20vt for cheap so I could compare them side by side and then start transferring over everything I need. My thought process is the MAC-14 is going to optimize the MC2 engine giving it more power. Maybe I am wrong?

You got that car for a steal, man. Steal.


Azev A's on the wall going to go on it?

lol. I thought it was a pretty fair price for both parties when I picked it up. My teeth were uncontrollably chattering it was so cold. Looked it over the best I could, but my mind was pretty much made up before I got there and I think he knew that.

Yes, the Azevs are planned for the urq. I did get those for a pretty good deal


Tonight I got the rear diff and sub frame out. Guess Audi didn't get around to triple squares when building the early cars. Was able to get all allens out with out stripping any, luckily. The red headed step child helped me out some, but I wouldn't let him do the allens. Better me strip one than him.



I have taken apart many a 4kq and B3q, but never have I come across this secondary vac box with a cable that runs to the transmission from the rear diff. What the hell is this for?



And finally my least favorite surprise of the night.... One rear sub frame bolt is not like the other... Looks like some one welded on a sleeve and then cross threaded a bolt up through it. I put the impact on it and the bolt head immediately snapped off. I have seen this happen to others, but a first for me. I will sleep on it, but most likely cut it smooth with the grinder, cut in a window and drop a new nut in if I can.



The rear sub frame and diff will go to work with me this weekend where I will pressure wash it. I'll also have one of my mechanics cut the rear sub frame mounts off the urq subframe and weld them onto the 4kq subframe. (I don't weld) I was able to hold the 4kq subframe in place and get a measurment for the 034 spherical rear tie rods. Looks like the 15.5" units will work.

[mr_aj_johnson]

I have a k24 laying around. I think it had 135k on the mc2 I pulled it from. 50$ and it's yours

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[auditrippin]

I have a k24 laying around. I think it had 135k on the mc2 I pulled it from. 50$ and it's yours

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

PM sent!!

[AudiSport4000]

Glad you found your way here, Russ

Looking forward to seeing progress on this. What a steal!

[auditrippin]

So I’m stupid, the extra vac actuator for the rear diff is for the center diff.

[auditrippin]

small update,

Got some cleaning done and some parts ordered. Compared the 4000q and urq rear sub frames. I may not be able to use the urq sub frame sway bar mounts on the 4000q subframe as the tie rod mounting points are in the same location. Still need to investigate more.

As for the welded/ broken rear sub frame bolt....

I cut it down and realized the bolt was still up through the nut. It appears they welded on the metal bushing insert while the subframe was still on the car as the bushing was pretty melted. So I cut it down as far as I could and drilled and tapped out the nut. Worked great, but took a ton of time and patience. I tried an easy out, but the bolt would not budge. Went ahead and ran the tap through the other 3 subframe nuts to clean the threads up.








Wednesday I was supposed to get some more work done on the urq, but plans change. My red headed step child has an E36 convertible and has been eyeing E36 M3's. So I have gone to look at a handful with him over the last few months. They are either too much $$, too beat, or one had been previously wrecked twice. So 10:30pm Tuesday night he gets home from work and shows me one FS in Costa Mesa. It checks all of his boxes and appears to be a good car. He already talked to the small shop and it was still available. We tried to leave that night but the wife made us wait until 4:30am to leave. It is a little rough around the edges, but appears to be a good solid car. The owner tossed in some extra parts and I rented a u-haul to get out of paying Cali Taxes and temp tags. 17 hours after we left, we pulled it into my shop in PHX. The boy is delighted and I have some thing else to suck up my free time, besides the new kitchen the wife has to have...

[Afterthought]

That e36 looks to be in great shape and probably best bang for his buck in the BMW cars. To me that is the last one that has that small, agile , lightweight feel. The e46 feels huge and heavy.
I’ve tried to do the BMW thing a few times with some e30s but It just doesn’t feel like the Audi’s do to me 82-95 Audi feels like home . Had some fun with my E30 and swapped in an S50 and it was really a potent car , quick and wanted to get sideways all the time

[auditrippin]

It has been unmodded.. The exhaust is a hack weld job with the mid section straight piped. You can tell it had a cold air intake and the OEM box was sloppily thrown in. Has new Depo headlights, but the low beams do not work. Just a bunch of piddly stuff that needs addressed. Only 125k on it though and has black Vaders in very nice shape.

I can't get into them either. I'll work on it and help with the research for the boy though. I really tried to get him to go for a B5 S4, but he was set in stone on the E36.

I bet your E30 was a blast to drive. I only test drove this one and it did pull really well. Your builds are great, I am sure that one was no different.

[Afterthought]

Yeah the Vaders are super cool. I noticed the e36 engine has nice torque for driving around town. Good powerband, at least for around here where there is not a lot of high speed stuff .

Re: your subframe
I though I remembered hearing that maybe it was possible to put a 4000 subframe in the rear of the urq ? that way you’d have the sway bar and the mounts already , but I don’t know if this is for sure or not . I grabbed a couple 4000s and I was going to experiment with this in my urq soon. I don’t know if or how the diff mounting differs

[auditrippin]

At a glance the rear diff and transmission mounts look to be pretty identical, as do the A arm mounts. The issue I see with using a front sub frame on the rear is where do you mount the tie rods and you would need to cut off the center diff mount and weld it onto the front sub frame. Alignment would need to be perfect for tie rods and the diff mount. It will be much easier to weld on a piece of flat strap to make sway bar mounts to the 4kq rear sub frame. I actually did this years ago on my first 4kq. I think I will run a stock CGT front sway bar on the back, If I can find one. Then I will install a universal poly sway bar end link kit into the a-arms similar to the front set up. Or you can use front A arms and have the appropriate guides built in for the OEM links, If you can find them

Today I mounted up the diff to the 4kq sub frame. Wire brushed the outside and then cleaned the inner rear CV and driveshaft grease all out and regreased. Also pulled the vac actuator bracket, glass bead blasted and painted it.

I took lots of pics of how the differential vacuum system goes back together but thats about it. If I want to take pics I have to remove my phone from the stereo and I am not all about that.

These 4kq parts are so clean! Factory paint, just a pressure wash. I ordered new bushings for it, but decided to leave the originals as they are still tight with no cracking at all.

[DE80q]

I'll look, but I'm pretty sure I have a pair of arms with sway bar links.

[mr_aj_johnson]

Crap, well now that you have all these really nice clean painted 4000 bits. I have a complete b3 20v rear subframe with factory sway bar and all associated accoutrements.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[auditrippin]

Crap, well now that you have all these really nice clean painted 4000 bits. I have a complete b3 20v rear subframe with factory sway bar and all associated accoutrements.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Found out over the weekend I can not use the 4000q rear subframe with the urq strut housings. The problem is the 4kq tie rods will not mount to the shorter mount on the urq strut housings. So I am sending back the 034 spherical tie rods I purchased and will just use the stock urq subframe and tie rods with new ends. Martin says the Suzuki Samari tie rod ends work well, so I will be ordering a set of those. I could use the 4kq subframe if I went to B3 two piece strut housings. I already set up my urq housings for coilovers, so I would rather not go B3 at the moment. Just too much with hub swapping, new bearing and then rebuilding for coil overs.

So off with everything on the rear end I just assembled over the weekend...

I did get an order into 2B for an intercooler and oil cooler kit!

[Afterthought]

I remember reading that a samurai piece would work.
I am running Moog ES2263R on mine . I think it’s from a BMW, they’re about 9.00.

I also read that through the years some of the urq rear tie rod lengths were different but it worked in my car .


https://www.audifans.com/pipermail/urq/ ... 08804.html

[auditrippin]

I remember reading that a samurai piece would work.
I am running Moog ES2263R on mine . I think it’s from a BMW, they’re about 9.00.

I also read that through the years some of the urq rear tie rod lengths were different but it worked in my car .


https://www.audifans.com/pipermail/urq/ ... 08804.html

Mine actually look different that that. I think your car is a late 83? Mine is early. I'll try and post a pic this weekend.

Not a ton of progress lately. Waiting on rear subframe bushings and tie rod ends. Did get my care package from 2B. I am ready to finish this suspension and start on the engine bay.

[auditrippin]

Time for a small update.

First, continuing with the tie rod talk with Afterthought. I definitely had the older style rear tie rods.



I ended up taking Martin's advice and ordered Suzuki samari tie rod ends. They work perfect.
Original on the right, suzuki part on the left.



Finally got everything together on the rear. Katman is thinking the offset in the tie rod assembly should be down and not up like I have them. So I need to revisit that.



Wife decided she needed a project..... errr, this car reminded her of her first car and now I need to get it running.
76 300d with 95k miles on it. Purchased it from the second owner who has had it since the early 80's. Phoenix car its whole life.



Wife has been on my ass to show here where I grew up and to see fall colors. So instead of working on the cars I took her to south east PA. I got to spend some time with the guys who got me into
old Audis in the first place. I miss that, not much of a support group in Phoenix. I did score some parts to stuff into our luggage too! A second K24, solid lifters, Schrick 276 cam for my 87.5 and a knock off 034 firewall brace.



Thats all I got. Hopefully I will have a few days early next month to get back to the ur.

[DE80q]

Very nice. I always think of old movies when I see those benzes.

Where in PA are you from? I'm in York, so more south central.

[auditrippin]

Very nice. I always think of old movies when I see those benzes.

Where in PA are you from? I'm in York, so more south central.

lol, me too. I always remember my dad watching war movies. They are somewhere in the middle east and the bad guys are driving them through the desert.

I am from the Greensburg / Latrobe area originally.

[auditrippin]

Spent lots of time working on the car the last week.

-Pulled everything out for the hydraulic system. Had PS rack and hoses from the parts 4kq rebuilt

-Installed 4kq PS pump

-Pulled AC compressor and lines

-Dropped the transmission, pressure washed it, had the MC2 flywheel I had laying around resurfaced and ordered a clutch kit from Mark

-Cleaned and painted lots of parts/ brackets

-Placed a parts order including Mk1 rabbit tie rod ends. I am going to use the 4kq rods with these ends. Will need to bend the passenger side tie rod.

-Went to install the turbo and ran into an issue..... My motor is not set up for water cooling the K24 turbo I want to run. So I need to find a freeze plug with either an AN fitting or hose barb, make up hoses and tie it back into one of the heater core hoses. Any one have any spare parts for this? I have a call into force5 but haven't heard anything back yet. I was told the engine came from a 200q, but some early 200's had MC-1 engines. So that may be what I have? I really don't know how to tell.

This is the code on the block.

[DE80q]

So you have an MC engine that doesn't have this?

Screenshot_20191115-041539~2.png (359.51 KiB) Viewed 55834 times

The only reason I can see for that is the swap retained the original oil only turbo. By the way, those freeze plug nipples are still available from 034.

[Afterthought]

Wow that subframe looks nice all
Refreshed

You are correct my white one is a later build but as luck would have it I do have one early 83 urq , so maybe this helps regarding the tie rods