Josh's 2.5 200QT.

2.5TYPE44 · Post by **2.5TYPE44** » Mon Sep 19, 2016 9:30 am

Sorry, I should have wrote the wastegate. The wastegate starts bypassing the exhaust gas from turbo and dumping it to the downpipe. The wastegate starts dumping at 18 psi and is fully open by 25 psi. There was three springs inside the wastegate. I didn't see anything that identifies what spring pressure they were. The largest spring had some red paint on it. As far as turbo speed and only tuned to 25 psi, I was told that it couldn't be tuned any further because of ignition break-up and that it was probably because of the plug wires and that his employee was new at crimping plug wire ends. Whatever it is, I will have to work through that issue too. :bangshead:

As for the turbo speed sensor, I ordered that so I can install it now that I have the turbo out of the car. I know I was told by Borg Warner to never over spin the bearings on EFRs.

audifreakjim · Post by **audifreakjim** » Mon Sep 19, 2016 11:24 am

Didn't see the video from tapatalk, that explains a lot!

You probably just need to adjust the duty cycle on the boost control valve. How much boost does it build with the boost control valve disabled?

chaloux · Post by **chaloux** » Mon Sep 19, 2016 8:37 pm

Video link! Poor Tapatalk users... We always get screwed out of the videos!

[youtube]http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=XS2FBezLxpc[/youtube]

chaloux · Post by **chaloux** » Mon Sep 19, 2016 8:41 pm

Yes that is just full manual with no n75/boost control working. Boost control can keep it shut or do whatever but it's manually limited by the spring you have in there. So that's basically just a starting point. We'd need to see a log file or a config file to see what your boost control setup is like.

2.5TYPE44 · Post by **2.5TYPE44** » Mon Sep 19, 2016 10:35 pm

As soon as I put the exhaust manifold on out to the muffler back in, I will run it and get a log so I can get some schooling on tuning. My parts came back from coating and this stuff is seriously resistant to scratching. The coating finish and the durability way exceeded my expectations . I've been banging it around and moving it on the concrete floor and it doesn't show any scratches or scuffs. I had everything coated on the inside and out. That should also help keep the exhaust from cooking the grease and rubber boot on my cv axle as well. The only thing I didn't coat is the wastegate and the air actuator for the quick spool valve.

chaloux · Post by **chaloux** » Tue Sep 20, 2016 4:50 pm

That is sex. It looks like CGI

2.5TYPE44 · Post by **2.5TYPE44** » Tue Sep 20, 2016 10:44 pm

I had to do some porting and clearancing between the Quick Spool Valve and the exhaust manifold. There is a little play or room to move the QSV around on the studs of the manifold and the way it was before, you could cause some serious problems. If you weren't paying attention and just tightened it down, you could run the risk of the valve making contact with the edges and causing it not to open up. I now clearanced it so that no matter what, it would not make contact with the sides and get stuck.

One thing I am kind of concerned with is the collector. It comes together at the T4 flange but it has a lot of obstruction of flow due to the angles the collector was welded. I have half the mind to take an end grinder and remove the blockage and patch stainless on the outside where any holes might be. I'm thinking of it as a air compressor and if I am trying to move as much air as fast/efficient as possible, I think the weld and collector that sticks out into the path of the exhaust and chokes up the flow needs to be gone. I'm not sure if I want to mess with it right now or just do it now that it is out of the car. I took a picture of the two ports looking through the QSV and you can see the T4 flange is about a T3 and a 1/2. The collector looks perfect for a T3 flange but I believe the runners coming in to the T4 should have been spread apart a little more to be out of the way of the Flange opening.

Look at how much of the flange is actually able to exhaust air... Should I open that up a little and get some of that out of the way?

2.5TYPE44 · Post by **2.5TYPE44** » Tue Sep 20, 2016 11:09 pm

Smooth operation.

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o2Kr-fnNEZQ[/youtube]

audifreakjim · Post by **audifreakjim** » Wed Sep 21, 2016 10:17 am

Looking good Josh. My collector is way worst than that and it makes plenty of power:) It's all because of packaging more than a bad design. You need a pretty long collector to get it ideal.

Have that shaft tigged to the plate and the screws welded in. Don't want to see this happen again.
viewtopic.php?f=11&t=73&start=2875

2.5TYPE44 · Post by **2.5TYPE44** » Wed Sep 21, 2016 7:30 pm

Thanks Jim! I remember seeing your post but I completely forgot about it. I took a Dremel and ground off the bare minimum thermal coating to make room for the stainless bead to be welded. I made sure to drag into the heads of the screws so that they can never back out and ran it on both sides of the valve for the hell of it. I'm thinking with the 3000 degree barrier and the weld, I shouldn't have to worry about it. She will probably never get the abuse you put yours through.

ringbearer · Post by **ringbearer** » Wed Sep 21, 2016 8:01 pm

Cheap insurance!

audifreakjim · Post by **audifreakjim** » Wed Sep 21, 2016 10:40 pm

It only takes a few backfires off the rev limiter. To break the shaft. That should make it a lot stronger, and how it should come from SP. Its a very German design, the screw are there to make it serviceable, but they weaken the shaft and cause all of the problems!

2.5TYPE44 · Post by **2.5TYPE44** » Sun Sep 25, 2016 10:03 pm

I started putting it all back together. I added a little wrap on top of the coating. Maybe it will knock the temperature down a little more and help from heat soaking the O1E.

2.5TYPE44 · Post by **2.5TYPE44** » Sun Sep 25, 2016 11:06 pm

Upon further inspection, I have two different part numbered fans/different brands. I must have got what was laying around the shop......... Anyway..... After getting some suggestions on here to contact the Fan Man, I called him up and he said it was very important to put a divider in between the two fans under the shroud. He said I would loose a good amount of CFM. So I put a rubber divider under the shroud so that each fan was pulling exactly half of the radiator instead of letting them share pulling the whole width of the radiator. I checked for flow and now I have great flow through 100% of the radiator now. Before, the fans were only pulling air through about 60% of the radiator and were scraping holes into the radiator. I used aluminum to make the shroud and broke a 90 degree into it to contour the radiator. It is rubber isolated and doesn't vibrate now. Maybe later... way later I will build one out of carbon fiber when everything else is done and I am bored. It is actually pretty light after the two holes were cut out. Radiator is one less issue I have to worry about now. You can see in the video where there is plenty of suction even in the corners where the fan is not at. Much better...

2.5TYPE44 · Post by **2.5TYPE44** » Sun Sep 25, 2016 11:33 pm

here it is in action...

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=alnpykm55xA[/youtube]

ringbearer · Post by **ringbearer** » Mon Sep 26, 2016 8:26 am

Nice work! That is a big improvement.

2.5TYPE44 · Post by **2.5TYPE44** » Mon Sep 26, 2016 12:12 pm

Hopefully this is one of the last little projects I do before leaving it alone and start driving it. Jeff ported my oil pump when he built the motor and we recently talked about benefits of a larger oil filter at higher RPMs. Right now I can only run a small oil filter because of the webbing of the engine block sticks out to where I can't screw on a longer and larger diameter filter. The wall/side of the filter hits the block and I can't start the threads to screw it on. So I ordered a second gasket and had a manifold spacer made to bring the oil filter manifold further away from the block. The oil filter on the right is the one I currently run, the oil filter in the middle is the one I will probably run now, and the one on the left is a little overkill and hangs down a little low since my car sits so low to the ground. (About 1" lower than the oil pan) The bolt that holds the manifold on and runs oil through had to be lengthened the thickness of the spacer and more ported holes drilled in the shaft. Not sure if it's overkill but it's definitely a good peace of mind.

chaloux · Post by **chaloux** » Mon Sep 26, 2016 3:54 pm

2.5TYPE44 wrote:here it is in action...

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=alnpykm55xA[/youtube]

Tapatalk friendly link

chaloux · Post by **chaloux** » Mon Sep 26, 2016 3:57 pm

That's also awesome. And loud. Nice work with the oil filter spacer. It's weird because I have run the 1.8t filter on everything i5 that I've owned with no clearance issues.

2.5TYPE44 · Post by **2.5TYPE44** » Mon Sep 26, 2016 7:25 pm

Let me have that part number for that 1.8 liter filter if you have it. I am realy curious now. It might be worth a shot if it will fit and it is considerably larger. I have checked a lot of post on different filters and saw where guys are grinding down the webbing on the block but I'm not willing to do that. Do you have the measurement on the one you run? The one I want to run is about a 1/2" too large in diameter to be able to clear the block. It's about 1 3/4" to the center.

loxxrider · Post by **loxxrider** » Tue Sep 27, 2016 12:23 am

Great work here. Sometimes if you want it done right you just gotta do it yourself. I love the quality and attention to detail you're putting in.

2.5TYPE44 · Post by **2.5TYPE44** » Mon Oct 10, 2016 10:35 am

Thanks Chris and yes, so true..

I finally finished my air box for the turbo. It took way more time than I wanted but I was able to salvage the Iroz manifold. If I were to do it all over again, I would have just had custom manifold built to accommodate the Euro headlight... oh wait... I already did that once before... :bangshead:

Anyway,its over and done with and I think it will work pretty good. It might even work better than the 4" silicone 90 degree hose to filter setup. There really is a lot of volume in the box, it's Polydyn coated, clear inspection window, rubber isolated/mounted, can be removed without pulling the turbo, air tight seal, and the throat opening is roughly 6". The only thing I had to do is remove and remote mount the boost control solenoid. It should provide little to no air restriction.

chaloux · Post by **chaloux** » Mon Oct 10, 2016 12:11 pm

That looks fantastic. The only thing I'd like to see is NOT Philips head bolts. I don't understand why you guys ('Murica) use them at all. Allen heads would be slick.

And please, pleease put a timing belt cover on. I know the chance is small but the risk is huge.

audifreakjim · Post by **audifreakjim** » Mon Oct 10, 2016 1:17 pm

Hey Josh,

It looks like you lengthened the top of this bolt, don't you need to lengthen it above the threads? Right now the holes on the bolt are going to be blocked off by the spacer.

2.5TYPE44 · Post by **2.5TYPE44** » Mon Oct 10, 2016 5:32 pm

What you are looking at is the bolt before I lengthened it. This picture was to show the comparison between the three filters. I'll see if I can load I pic of the bolt when I get home. I actually cut the bolt in half, welded a center section in, had to drill the inside deeper, and add a couple of holes closer to the head of the bolt to align with the holes in the manifold that lead to the turbo line.

Josh's 2.5 200QT.

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