Dave A. Rally CQ: Now in Seattle, sort of

[dalspaugh]

I'm re-running all the lines inside the car already, and the idea is that an external pump can be changed faster. I was originally planning on running 2 pumps in parallel with one as a back-up. The rally guys on another forum have shown me that's not allowed in NASA so it'll be a simple pump. I still think an external, in-line pump with vibration dampening mounts is the way I'll go. Pump will be located in a place to make the change easy.

[dalspaugh]

Ok, got a few nights in this week.

I'm still tidying up the wiring harness, I left myself some of the long ones to finish with for some unknown reason... Ran out of Velcro Wraps so I'm left at 90%

I have a plan for the fuel system that will dump out right at the rear seat area where I'll mount the pump and there will be essentially 0 length of line under the car but still using the stock output on the tank. Time to order parts!

I also installed my first part on the car that should stay there - the Clutch master which was easy enough with almost nothing left on the car...

Anyway, cooler than that, I extracted my first broken exhaust stud (in the threads)! here's how:

**All these steps were performed after much treatment with MAP Torch and PB Blaster!**

eyeball center and punch it with a center punch.


I have left-hand thread bits just for this purpose, so dril it out, pay careful attn to depth so as not go into the head...


Tap in extractor to seat...


then, CAREFULLY crank CCW, I say carefully because the extractors can only take so much and you REALLY don't want to break the extractor off in the stud. If it feels like its not going to move, reapply lots of heat and penetrating fluid. You can also step up to a bigger drill bit and bigger extractor... but in the end.. whoala!


Also, I should note, that this job made me buy this fancy extractor set... but having 3 early 90s Audis in NE, I'm sure will allow me to get my money back... (also I got it on Amazon Warehouse deals for a discount)

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000 ... ge_o07_s00

[dalspaugh]

Alright, been a little while since I could get to work on the CQ due to the cold temps, holidays, and some work that was needed on the DD B4. but back to it now...

Looking more closely at the NASA/RallyAm rules, I can see that an external fuel pump is not in the cards right now. They require a firewall between the pumps and the passenger compartment and I don't see an easy way to do that unless I mount it in the engine bay and that would be too much pull from the tank and I don't want to damage the pump. So I'm back to the OEM, in-tank location. Admittedly, its not that hard to get to with all the carpeting/interior gone.

I pulled the trigger on a bunch of 034 parts, like a Solid Shifter, EGR blockoff, breather hose, etc. Not offering a free shipping threshold makes ordering from them a pain on the east coast...

They're mag drain plug definitely shouldn't have been listed in the CQ section:


Idk what car that's for but its not mine.... maybe it'll fit my B4...

Got the breather tube mounted up:



I must say this is miles better than the OEM piece that was collapsing, good value too.

I took off the old clutch since the southbend setup came in. This is my first clutch job, I see the warranty paperwork says that I need to have the flywheel resurfaced or replaced in order for it to be valid. Here are a couple pics. and it does in fact look like it needs some love. What's your take?

[DE80q]

The drain plug is probably for the stamped pan on the NG. Not sure why they would list it for the 20v.

As for the flywheel, I would get it resurfaced. There are many that just did some surface prep with some sand paper with no problems though.

[dalspaugh]

The drain plug is probably for the stamped pan on the NG. Not sure why they would list it for the 20v.

As for the flywheel, I would get it resurfaced. There are many that just did some surface prep with some sand paper with no problems though.

Thanks for the feedback, I'm going to see if I can get a price. Looks like the best price on a new one is about $170...

[dalspaugh]

Alright, so I managed to find a lightweight flywheel from 034 unused on the cheap so that comes in this week. I was quoted $50 for resurfacing the OEM wheel which isn't bad but the price was right on the lightweight one...

Found the paint in the engine bay doing this when I came into the garage this past weekend:


That's ok though since the folks on rallyanarchy convinced me to do some seam welding while the bay is this open... so I began on that!

Start of prep:


More Prep:


Welds: (I'm a beginner...)


For the parts of the car that have the heavy heavy chassis adhesive over them, I'm gong to take 1.5" strips of steel and make them into angles that I'll weld over the adhesive - way WAY easier than removing all that hardcore adhesive crap... Stay tuned on this, more welding to come!

Installed the new fuel pump in the OEM location. Looking closely a the rules, unless I want to put the pump in the engine bay, or under the car (no...), it has to pretty much go back to the OEM location.

I bought used 034 injectors so I had to find some OEM o-rings to fit them... Looks like these will do the trick, i got 1 set in and they fit nice. Will confirm once fuel pressure happens:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CE ... ge_o02_s00

New EGR gasket with the 034 blockoff plate...


When disassembling the tie rods, the inner pins broke free from the stamped steel bracket holding them together and I don't want that to happen again. I've also heard they can be weak under high stress so I got a bit carried away.

Prep, (had to scratch off the yellow zinc finish):


I welded the pins to the bracket first, then added a small plate on the backside which will significantly stiffen the whole piece - I know, it's ugly.


paint;

[frostyflax17]

looking good!

[dalspaugh]

Got a big box in from FCP Euro and the to do list has really opened up with all the parts that have come in recently. Excited to get in there and Q the music. Update after this weekend.

[dalspaugh]

Alright, I've been in the garage quite a bit lately but progress is tough...

New Throttle body gasket, cleaned up both surfaces and the butterfly valves. Thought about removing the little ramp on the small intake valve but decided it wasn't worth messing with at that moment...





New (used) 034 injectors are in with all new seals. I really don't like how the fuel rail / injector mounting all works but I guess I have to deal with it. We'll see if this is a problem when the time comes.

Dropped the oil pan (holy shit, why are there so many bolts!?), changed out the rear main flange with a new gasket



Decided to go with an AAN windage tray so I'm waiting on that, but new gaskets and such are on the way for that. Getting close to remounting tranny... I hope!

New breather hose mount on the back of the engine...

New steering rack boot... really weird assembly I thought... after this, of course, I decided it needed to come out for some chassis welding I plan on doing.



Both of the SHCS inside the Drivers side front fender yielded, what a pain to get this thing out (bolts that have never been undone...)

Back to the fuel system. The goal is to have 0 lines under the car, exposed to the elements (rocks, dirt, stones, boulders etc.) so I came up with this.



034 An conversion on the outlet, unchanged bung for the return. Drilled two holes in the backset area that come out right near the outlets on the tank. Install grommets.

Then using a An fitting and some braided hose, the parts go right into the cabin.



I'll make up a plate to cover this hole with a drainage/inspection hole to diagnose fuel leaks.

On to oil cooling. Using a 3B oil filter housing since it has ports and should be an OEM direct fit.



Seems like the thread is M18 x 1.5 so I'll need some AN adapters here, need to figure out what the fittings are on the little radiator I picked up. Need this gasket here too. Also seems like the pins (Bent sheet pieces) are slightly slightly different but I'll just expand the old ones.

Ordered some strip steel for fabrication work / stitch welding in the engine bay area and that's the major gate keeping job before more things can get installed.

More to do...

[frostyflax17]

your images aren't working on that last post :(

[DE80q]

your images aren't working on that last post :(

They work for me...

[PRY4SNO]

your images aren't working on that last post :(

Me neither

(Safari)

[dalspaugh]

your images aren't working on that last post :(

Me neither

(Safari)

hmmm idk guys, I checked the image privacy settings and they look like they are all public. I also tried looking in an incognito tab with chrome and everything comes up OK.

Any ideas? I haven't changed the way I set photos in. Shot on an iPhone, uploaded to Google+ with the app, then copy and paste the image URL embedded with the "Img" button here on the forum

[PRY4SNO]

your images aren't working on that last post :(

Me neither

(Safari)

hmmm idk guys, I checked the image privacy settings and they look like they are all public. I also tried looking in an incognito tab with chrome and everything comes up OK.

Any ideas? I haven't changed the way I set photos in. Shot on an iPhone, uploaded to Google+ with the app, then copy and paste the image URL embedded with the "Img" button here on the forum

Huh. It works in Tapatalk. Must be my browser.

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

[PRY4SNO]

your images aren't working on that last post :(

Me neither

(Safari)

hmmm idk guys, I checked the image privacy settings and they look like they are all public. I also tried looking in an incognito tab with chrome and everything comes up OK.

Any ideas? I haven't changed the way I set photos in. Shot on an iPhone, uploaded to Google+ with the app, then copy and paste the image URL embedded with the "Img" button here on the forum

Works in Tapatalk, so must be my browser... I'll look into it some more.

Anyways, looking good!

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

[frostyflax17]

yeah it works on my phone as well, but not my firefox this time. the previous posts worked though. looking good!

[dalspaugh]

Ok, so I think I figured out why we're having image problems. While trying to add pictures to my wordpress page, I was getting errors doing it the same way I always have. It turns out that since some of my last posts, google has decided to pioneer a new image format called .webp which compresses images 33% better than .jpg. And while that sounds all fine and dandy, it means interface issues with external parties like wordpress and safari and other companies that are not google. Hence why my chrome is fine. You can learn all about it here:

https://gigaom.com/2014/07/19/the-story ... at-a-time/

I'm going to see if there is a way to turn this "feature" off for now while everyone else catches up. Stay tuned.

[dalspaugh]

Small update here, wanted to show something that I'm working on kind of on the side. Anyone who's been to a rally may not realize the insanity that is the 20-30 minutes you get to work on and look over the car between stage sessions. And since I don't expect to have Audi experts on the scene with me, I've decided to make up some documents that A) will help me remember how this thing goes together, and B) will help the rando service friends I get navigate their way around the car in a pinch. So I'm taking the Free ETKA sites and making some documents like this. Then I'll laminate and bind them together!





This has been a great little side project for when it's too cold out to want to be in the garage and if I'm exhausted from doing work the previous night.

[PRY4SNO]

Smart!

I know printouts of the exploded parts diagrams have helped me finish swaps where I didn't have a Bentley.

[kosoh]

Great Idea . Could have used some on the Rally last weekend - our break time was only 10 minutes though!!
Any chance of doing a URQ set??
Cheers
Keith

[dalspaugh]

Great Idea . Could have used some on the Rally last weekend - our break time was only 10 minutes though!!
Any chance of doing a URQ set??
Cheers
Keith

10 minutes is so tough...

Buuuuuutttt I wasn't planning on doing any for a URQ, but maybe in trade for walk around of the car/general knowledge download from a fellow Audi Rallyer (who's actually done some rallying)?!

Where are you located/what rallys are you planning for 2016?

[kosoh]

Driving Historic or Vintage Class or Group D ( Dinosaur) depending on event. So far this year did Alcan 5000 Winter (1st in Vintage 5 O/a) in late Feb/early March then Trail of Gnu last w/e (1st Historic 9th O/A). We are on West coast and doubt if we are heading East this year - have open invitation to play at Tim O'Neills but its going to be tough. 1982 Urq. FB @ Alcan Audi. Trying to set up schedule for rest of year between Stage/TSD/Endurance/Vegas events.
Its a great idea and good tool to have but the time between stages is real tight so basically you can only do emergencies which is what gorilla tape is for....lol
Cheers

[dalspaugh]

Driving Historic or Vintage Class or Group D ( Dinosaur) depending on event. So far this year did Alcan 5000 Winter (1st in Vintage 5 O/a) in late Feb/early March then Trail of Gnu last w/e (1st Historic 9th O/A). We are on West coast and doubt if we are heading East this year - have open invitation to play at Tim O'Neills but its going to be tough. 1982 Urq. FB @ Alcan Audi. Trying to set up schedule for rest of year between Stage/TSD/Endurance/Vegas events.
Its a great idea and good tool to have but the time between stages is real tight so basically you can only do emergencies which is what gorilla tape is for....lol
Cheers

Wow! looks like you're having some great results!

It's looking slightly more likely that I could end up in the Seattle area this summer so If I do, I'll have to find a time to see this thing at an event!

[dalspaugh]

Been making some good progress lately.

First off, I got an AAN windage tray and got that mounted up. This meant that I could get the new Flywheel installed (034 lightweight):


then. the clutch (southbend stage 2E):


After this, turned my focus on the chassis. I'm still doing a considerable amount of seem welding to whatever is exposed in the engine bay. I've definitely been struggling to get good welds partially because of the coatings and grime hidden inside the seams. This has been problematic especially with the seams underneath, After about 1 second of welding, the waxy coating would drip through the cracks and contaminate the weld. Anyway, i fought through it, the welds aren't pretty but I think they're solid.





I also need to do some spots that are covered in the chassis adhesive which is not only hard to get to but a pain in the ass to remove. So to counter that, I'm going to leave it, and weld in some hand-hammered angle over it. This was actually an idea over on the rally forums. I used 1/16" thick x 1.5" wide strips of 1010.



A couple shots showing where I'll be welding them in:





Still need to get these welded in, the prep work took up all the time that day...

After that, had a moment to swap out the knock sensors with new thru-hole style ones:



Progress has felt good lately. I need to finish up that welding, and then lay down some paint to protect those areas.

After that, I'll be focusing on putting stuff back in the engine bay, running the fuel lines, touching up a last few things on the engine/Trans assem, then laying the wiring into the chassis!

[LeafBox]

Shit, are those knock-sensors interchangeable? On all engines?
They're such an eyesore