Easy way to swap rear diff bushing without press?

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JonLENNY
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Re: Audi Coupe-new primer and matte black paint SOON

Post by JonLENNY »

A side exit will most definatly drag on the ground no matter how you do it.

You'll probably get tired of it, do it right or do it twice trust me btdt
1991 Audi 80q 20vt :project:
Kuma
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Re: Audi Coupe-new primer and matte black paint SOON

Post by Kuma »

It's more or less so my buddy can practice with his welder.

We are going to try both. I cut up my old Audi 200 exhaust, so I could utilize the flanges.

We are making two versions to see if its possible.
The part that was over the top of the rear axles was hanging down and laying on top of the passenger rear axle. So it rubbed a hole through. I'll snap a picture shortly.
DE80q
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Re: Audi Coupe-new primer and matte black paint SOON

Post by DE80q »

You got to love the old rubber exhaust hangers. My stebro muffler was like that from the PO. There are hangers available the use a chain inside the rubber to keep the from sagging. Or you can use the adjustable hangers, aka hose clamps. The narrow German clams work great for this. Its kind of ghetto, but works very well.
"If you can't find one, make one"

Dallastown, PA
1991 Audi 80 quattro (20vt project)
1991 Audi Coupe Quattro (project: my first 20v)
2007 Mitsubishi Raider(Dakota in disguise)
2019 Chevy Cruze RS hatch (wife's little red sporty car)
Kuma
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Re: Audi Coupe-new primer and matte black paint SOON

Post by Kuma »

I was planning on using the metal universal ones. Good? Yes?
Kuma
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Re: Audi Coupe-new primer and matte black paint SOON

Post by Kuma »

So i acquired an audi 200 turbo from a guy in Austin Texas. Now i am parting it out.
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yay!

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Anyways, i was gonna put her back together, but i dont feel like it.
So apart she comes.



I had to change my fuel pump, cause i kept getting a really shitty bog whenever i would start driving. The bog went away, but now its back. even after i changed out the filter.
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after replacing the filter, i had tugged on the fuel lines and apparently they had a hole rusted in them... 4 times...


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So i repaired those.

What a pain in the ass.



my buddy and i decided we were going to paint our cars finally.

i decided to go with Satin Hunter green. I am using Rustoleum satin and mineral spirits mixed and rolling it on with a high density roller.

I am going to be finishing up this week and then wetsanding the car.

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Kuma
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Re: CQ-Satin Green Paint and new fuel filter, Borla XR1

Post by Kuma »

My best friend Charlie and i have been working on my exhaust lately. He is new to welding so i am letting him use my car as a Mule to perfect his skills.



right now, i am runnning catless and only the muffler (borla) its self at the moment. I am going to add the rest later on next week.
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themagellan
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Re: CQ-Satin Green Paint and new fuel filter, Borla XR1

Post by themagellan »

can't wait to see the roll job - some of these come out Superb with the right amount of prep and clean air.
Kuma
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Re: CQ-Satin Green Paint and new fuel filter, Borla XR1

Post by Kuma »

So far so good!

i am really excited about it. I plan on wetsanding with 600 to get the imperfections out, then add another coat. cool thing about the rustoleum is that you dont have to clear coat it.


I was going to go black, but i spotted Hunter Green and i chose that instead, because thats what i wanted to paint it originally.
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PRY4SNO
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Re: CQ-Satin Green Paint and new fuel filter, Borla XR1

Post by PRY4SNO »

Nice to see all the progress you're making... it's motivating me to get shit done when I finally get home from work.

My red car has the same hesitation or lurch that you described. Hoping it's the pump and not the lines as that's a bitch of a job by the looks of the threads I've found on s2forum.
Find me on Instagram @pry4sno

|| 2010 Golf Sportwagen TDI /// #farmenwagen
|| 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 24vt 4x4 #bertancummins
|| 1992 80 quattro 20v /// Eventual AAN'd Winter Sled
|| 1990 Coupe quattro /// Because Racecar
Kuma
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Re: CQ-Satin Green Paint and new fuel filter, Borla XR1

Post by Kuma »

I only mended my fuel line problem. The lines were so rusted that they had holes once I moved them inside the rubber holders.

It was tedious, but I'm sure it would have been easy to replace.

Now that I know what I am doing.

I'm gonna have to order a pump at some point, and maybe get 10lbs larger fuel injectors. Dunno yet


I did however order valve cover gasket and intake mani gasket.
Kuma
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Re: CQ-Satin Green Paint and new fuel filter, Borla XR1

Post by Kuma »

some sample pics. Still have to finish the second coat of black and the rest of the touch up on the trims and hard to reach places.


but looks good so far!


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what do you think?
Kuma
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Re: CQ-Satin Green Paint and new fuel filter, Borla XR1

Post by Kuma »

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i had these for sale a while back and discovered recently that the flaps fit on the rear. they are kind stubby, but they look good.


Scored a Hub from a forum guy, and borrowed my buddies Momo hub for temp.

Just in case though, i saved the stock wheel from my CQ. Apparently, the same part number for the CQ steering wheel is the same as the audi 200.

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Got my Intake manifold gasket and Valve cover gasket in the mail. YAY, this will my saturday afternoon.
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I had a HUGE loss of power the other day on the highway. Pulled over and had to fix the popped line. It was the one that goes from the side of the throttle body.
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JonLENNY
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Re: CQ-Satin Green Paint and new fuel filter, Borla XR1

Post by JonLENNY »

That looks pretty good in green, like the steering wheel too
1991 Audi 80q 20vt :project:
Kuma
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Re: CQ-Satin Green Paint and new fuel filter, Borla XR1

Post by Kuma »

Thanks~!!!!


i like it too. i have an AudI horn button in the mail on its way.


i accidentally broke the horn wire that sticks out for the button on the hub... and i dont know how to fix it.

The wheel is only temporary. I really want a different Momo wheel or maybe a Nardi wheel. Id LOVE to have a Nardi Shifter too.


one of these days.

anyways, i did the Valve cover gasket because it was leaking oil into the spark plugs. I discovered that the person who did the valve cover gasket had added RTV PLUS the VCG and it was seeping into the spark plugs. Also did the Intake manifold gasket and i painted the VC and IM so it would look a little better. Deleted the cruise control linkage and closed up the hose that connected to it.

i need to replace the gasket for the exhaust manifold and the studs too. There is a leak and the engine bay kinda smokes because of the cracked gaskets.


car runs kinda weird now though. i was told by Bufkin i may need a new temperature sensor, for the one that kicks on the fan.


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also scored a cool door stop from Bufkin as well, when i went to his house for drinks.


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also said bye to the audi 200

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Kuma
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Re: CQ-Satin Green Paint and new fuel filter, Borla XR1

Post by Kuma »

I LOVE THIS CAR!!! its driving beautifully!!!!!!
Kuma
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Re: CQ-Satin Green Paint and new fuel filter, Borla XR1

Post by Kuma »

Car has been down for about 3 weeks now.

im pretty sure it was the fuel pump that went out and have since ordered and am waiting on a new fuel pump.

Heres what happened:

Turned the car on to get ready to leave to go to Austin, from my home that is about 50 miles, and then went inside to grab my Monster out of the fridge.
I came back out side, got in the car and then the car sputters and dies.


wtf...


turn the car off and then back to the ACC position. No buzz from the fuel pump. shit.


three weeks later and i am finally getting back to the CQ and i put the car in ACC mode and crank. i get a crank, and i get the buzz from the fuel pump... but its very very soft compared to the original sound it normally makes.

what if its NOT the fuel pump hypothetically.
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scubadave
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Re: Bad fuel pump, but could it ALSO be something else if no

Post by scubadave »

It could be a bad ignition switch or fuel pump relay. Relay is less likely though but has been known to supply less than ideal voltage to the pump. I have put a relay in under the carpet left side of the fuel tank on mine to maintain full battery voltage to my pump at all times. Then the fuel pump relay doesn't become overworked and just supplys signal voltage to the new relay. Out of curiosity, why didn't you pull the pump out of the 200 before you scrapped it? It may could have been a spare for you to use at some point. Also, the ignition switch is possibly the same as well. It's always a good idea to have spares of those on hand. Which, is the other thing that could be causing your issues. It is very common for the ignition switch to be the culprit for this and other power problems in audis. It's unfortunate, but a reality we have all come to deal with. Check the voltage at the pump when you cycle through the positions of the key. Take a base voltage off the battery for reference to compare with the numbers you get at the pump to see if you have a big loss through the old electrical components. Take notice if the key feels solid and cycles through each position or if it feels loose or sloppy and has intermittent or dead spots. Replace it if it does not feel good and solid and performes the same way.

Give that a try and let us know. Call me if you need to.
Kuma
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Re: Bad fuel pump, but could it ALSO be something else if no

Post by Kuma »

The key is rigid and solid when i turn it through the motions.

the 200 had been sitting for the past 10 years.

dont think the fuel pump would have been very good...
Kuma
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Re: Bad fuel pump, but could it ALSO be something else if no

Post by Kuma »

also, the fuel pump in my car is original at 300,000 miles.

but i have to say, it lasted a helluva long time. Im impressed.
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scubadave
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Re: Bad fuel pump, but could it ALSO be something else if no

Post by scubadave »

Well, check your voltages. Watch the voltages as you cycle through key positions. May want to go ahead and relay your pump regardless. It's a good idea either way.
Kuma
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Re: Bad fuel pump, but could it ALSO be something else if no

Post by Kuma »

would you happen to have a diagram?
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scubadave
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Re: Bad fuel pump, but could it ALSO be something else if no

Post by scubadave »

You don't need one. Fold your rear seats forward, lift the carpet up and pull the screws out of the front, remove carpet, remove cover pan, test fat wire going to fuel pump, I believe green with yellow stripe. Record voltage at pump. Compare with voltage at battery. If its more than half a volt difference, relay the sucker. You will be right there to do the pump too. Hope your tank is mostly empty!
Kuma
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Re: Bad fuel pump, but could it ALSO be something else if no

Post by Kuma »

tank is 3/4 full... ive gotta go an buy a new seal for the fuel tank.

this one is mega rotted
Kuma
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Re: Bad fuel pump, but could it ALSO be something else if no

Post by Kuma »

what does it mean when the clutch pedal is lower than the other two? My clutch pedal has always been lower than the other two, but even if i try to lift it up to be even with the other pedals... it doesnt move any further.

car still engages, but im wondering if the clutch is getting worn and that is a sign?
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AngryTaco
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Re: Bad fuel pump, but could it ALSO be something else if no

Post by AngryTaco »

My 4kq sits level with the other 2 if not a little higher. How much travel do you have? I believe there is an adjustment provision above the pedal for sitting height
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