Bang for buck turbo for VW 8v?

[Lord_Verminaard]

Just doing some "bench building" for a possible future project.

Cheap 8vT. Thinking 1.8 8v bottom (since I have a few laying around) with 8.5 CR, coated pistons, possible rod upgrade. Massaged x-flo head, cam. Want to keep boost low, probably 12 PSI or so. Intercooled of course. Maybe a nice streetable 220 hp?

I have a T3 manifold that fits 8v heads. So I guess I would be limited to a T3-flanged turbo.

What turbo would you guys pick for this? Remember, this is a budget build so the lower the price the better. With a worked head, 6500 rpm should be fine, a meduim-ish spool time would be nice to keep transmissions and tires alive and keep efficiency up.

Lets hear it!

Thanks,
Brendan

[vt10vt]

If that's all the power you're after I'd skip rods and coatings and either pick up a G60 (PG code) block or internals or MC1/2 rods/pistons or just an ABA block, even a stock 8v would prolly be okay for 220 and any of those other combos should hold 300hp no problem. If you end up ABA just stack metal headgaskets with ARP's (do these anyway) with the crossflow head. 8v guys make 300whp on pretty much stock block/head combos regularly. For a turbo you're options are pretty limitless with the T3 flange, a little holset would probably do well but I'm a little holset biased

I built a PG with a crossflow head and a cut 20vt exhaust manifold, ghetto/custom short runner intake mani and that thing was quick and the PG bottom ends are very stout, but I never got over 8psi before I traded it for my 200 though

[Lord_Verminaard]

Good to know, PG blocks are a little harder to come by but yeah with my modest hp goals, a stock block with ARP rod bolts would probably do fine. Little Holsets, maybe an HY35? Would that be too big? A friend had a built Volvo 2.3 with an HY35 and it wouldn't spool until 4000 rpm but he had 9000 rpm to play with, lol. I keep forgetting if the HX is bigger or smaller than the HY.

Thanks for the info.

Brendan

[themagellan]

The best 2.0l setup that seems to always succesfully make power is this:

ABA 2.0 OBD1 bottom end
Forged internals
Oil Squirters

OBD2 ABA/AEG Head (AEG are great for a bit of extra valve)
270* Cam
T3 Super 60 .63ar (or equivalent)
Double Stack headgasket (Or copper alternative if you are a prude, remember you are building a motor worth 150$)
management: Mk3 Motronic with a c2 chip

Don't waste your time with pistons, standalone, rods, if you are shooting for under 300whp. These little motors can take an absolute beating, and the idea for this type of motor is to KEEP IT CHEAP - anything that breaks is really affordable. Save your money for transmissions

[glibobbo21]

ABA ftw

Theyre 200 bucks(obd 2) in nh, so you cant go wrong. No forged crank but theyre plentiful.