Easy way to swap rear diff bushing without press?

[ur20v]

LOL

You serious, Clark?

[Kuma]

Yes. Yes I am. No leaks and it holds the pressure. Emission hose gave out. All the hoses I used, collapsed.

[ur20v]

The rubber hose inside the braid is going to turn into jelly.

BTW, the factory replacement hose is all of $16 at the dealer:
http://www.jimellisaudiparts.com/produc ... 3997H.html

Even ECS has it:
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/034133997H/

If it were me, and I was experiencing hose collapse between the manifold and the ISV, I'd move the ISV closer to the manifold and shorten the collapsing hose. But what do I know

[Kuma]

its not permanent, Nik!

Ah, Jim Ellis... I bought my Mk5 jetta New from Jim ellis' grandson, who happened to be a car sales man, i think he runs the joint now. Jim Ellis is in my hometown.

ill order the hose later. i cant spend time on the car right now, and i dont drive much right now either, since i have been cramming for midterms.

i will try to shorten the hose to see if it changes it. I think part of my problem is that with the K&N cone, it pulls the hose further way from the Intake, but i never had any issues with it before.

I also think i need to clean out my MAF and my filter.

its been about 5-6 months since i last cleaned the filter.

[Kuma]

Hey Nik, i ordered those parts from Rock Auto, thanks for the link.

[ur20v]

Sure thing... you wanted cheap and they don't get much cheaper than that, do they?

[Kuma]

Yep, and eventually ill get everything sorted out. I do however need to get sway bar end links???

[ur20v]

$5.11 each at FCP Groton:
http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi-su ... -8a0407465

[loxxrider]

Be very, very wary of buying and of the FCP brand stuff... That stuff has gone bad on two of my BMWs in a matter of months after installing. Dangerously bad, aka balljoints just popping out, etc.

[amd is the best]

I've had decent luck with the FCP B5 control arms for whatever it's worth.

[busmn280]

Kuma,

What are the details on the smoke machine you built? They usually cost about $1000.00 or so. Building one sounds much cheaper!

[ur20v]

I've had decent luck with the FCP B5 control arms for whatever it's worth.

Aye. Same here. And I have used their endlinks posted above on several cars with no issues.

[Kuma]

Chris, what parts did you buy? how hard were you driving?

Thanks again Nik.

Busmn280, i used the DIY smoke machine thread to build my own smoke machine. It did not exactly cost me 5$ like the guys said, as i had to get more parts together than he did, but i got it together pretty well. Its not great, but it does the job. Plus, i ended up smoking the cigar after i was finished. mmmmmm, Cigars....


Nik, do i need rear links? or is it just the front that has them?

[Kuma]

Kuma,

What are the details on the smoke machine you built? They usually cost about $1000.00 or so. Building one sounds much cheaper!

here ya go, this is what i used.

In my quest to find an elusive vac leak I decided to go ahead and make a smoke machine as the propane and carb cleaner tricks weren't yielding any results. I'm hoping this will tell me what I need to know. This post may also be a bit premature because I haven't actually tried this out to find a leak yet but...I think she'll work just fine...

This DIY smoke machine isn't entirely my idea, but an acumulation of ideas made to work. This literally cost me less than 5 dollars to make and about 20 minutes of my time.

To start out I collected the neccessary parts. A peanut butter jar, a couple hose fittings, and of course some Black & Mild's. You also need a pump which can be seen in later pics.


Next I used a step drill to make a couple holes in the lid just big enough for the fittings to push in then ground off the paint/coating:


A little flux and solder and the fittings were leak free. You can see the battery operated air mattress pump I used in this pic but I'm sure any low pressure pump could be made to work:


Now take a Black & Mild and whittle the wooden tip down enough that it pushes into the backside of one of the fittings, leaving some air gaps on either side:


Make a hi-tech adapter for the air pump:


Attach some hoses and flip the pump on. Look at that cherry!:


And a difficult to capture shot of the output. It definitely puts out some smoke. My small garage was cloudy in no time:


I think this should be adequate enough to tell me what I need to know. I have good feelings about this.

i tried to copy this as best as i could. Im not an engineer so my shit looks retarded.

[Kuma]

okay i ordered the front sway bar links. Hope they last. well, at least until i am able to get mo betta stuff.

time will tell. Thanks for the help guys

[Kuma]

my car finally fits into the Garage.

yeah yeah my mudflaps look like shit.

i put them on then my back gave out.

just got some ordered from Drew C for cheapies.




apparently the boots on the suspension i got had pin holes in them... So HERE COMES THE RTV!



yeah i know, its not permanent, but im going to have D. Kitterman help me out.





AHHHH the CUTENESS!

my wolf pup is now 4 weeks old.





Fixed that pesky hose... Found some Silicon hose. I robbed it from a line from my old Mk2.

[Kuma]

Im trying to make a set of my own fog lights. but i need this pigtail from a passenger side CQ fog light. dont care if the light is broken, i just need the pigtail and the plug on the other side. LMK

[ur20v]

I might have some fog light pigtails.

4 weeks old? He's a little too young to be away from his mama, don't you think? :(

[Kuma]

i dont have the pup yet, that is a daily update i get from the owner/my friend. They get released at 8 weeks.

i still have 4 more weeks to go.

i just need the one passenger light piggie as it can be removed from the housing. The drivers side one cannot cause the plug is molded into the back of the housing...

[Kuma]

well, i had to take off the front subframe today...

here is the front sway bar link.



the drivers side is brand new and so is the drivers side control arm apparently.

passenger cv boots are poop. drivers inner boot is torn.

drivers front ball joint is pooped up
i cannot get the passenger control arm undone. the bolts are rusted stuck.

the subframe bushings are jacked up and brittle, or soaked with brake fluid and have swollen.

i want to do away with the squishy rubber bushings. i want something that wont do that, but i DO NOT want to have anything to do with Javad.


also my trans mount bracket is broken... its actually missing a whole chunk.




i am still waiting on the front left ball joint, and the front and rear sway bar stabilizer links.

annnnnndddd... i have to figure out how to get that passenger control arm off.

[Kuma]

Ok, gonna use a dremel to cut off the bolts for the Control arm.

I scored some REALLY cheap 034 aluminium front and rear subframe bushings.

im not a huge supporter of 034 but, im supporting someone else by purchasing these.

Im gonna have Dave K. repair my control arms that i remove from the CQ. Also gonna need to get his Trans soon as well. I hope my clutch is not fubar. It seems fine though, it engages at the top.

[Kuma]

i still need the pigtail for my fog lights...

if you have a broken fog let me know.

[Kuma]

YAY!

new front links!

[Vroman]

Nice, if you dont have it all back together when I get back to Texas I can help you for a day after I pull my head off and drain my oil to get the drain bung for the turbo oil drain welded on.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

[Kuma]

Sounds good. I need to order some poly sway bar bushings. The ones that go on the middle of the sway bar. I forgot I already have the rear ones.