Bills Scirocco 16v project

Document and share your build!
3bAudios

Post by 3bAudios »

thinking about the turbo situation today. I think im going to have the smaller housing from the t3 42 trim turbo i have machined out to fit the wheel from t04 P trim. pics:
the pair
Image
the larger housing
Image
the smaller one
Image
3bAudios

Post by 3bAudios »

Today i mounted up the intercooler, it tilts a bit back which i dont really like, but i'll fix the tabs the next time its out to make it fit right
3bAudios

Post by 3bAudios »

another update. I got a t3 60 trim turbo, WG, exhaust manifold, and a down pipe from a friend of mine down in FL. the downpipe is for a MK2 so i dont think its going to fit in my scirocco. the turbo was hard to get the turbine housing off and when off i noticed some buildup on the exhaust wheel.
Image
there also is a stud that is broken off
Image
then i fitted a random peice i had from back when i lived in fl. I'm not sure what car it is off of but it was a tad to wide for the compressor housing so i had to do a bit of modifying to get it to fit, but it fits. next is finding a 2" peice of tube and get it welded on to the output or find a flange for the existing outpout
Image
I also ordered some parts, rod and main bearings with a lower gasket kit as i'm going to try to use the block I have.
3bAudios

Post by 3bAudios »

update from the past few days, i got the arp rodbolts and got them on the rods. Also started pulling the crank from the block so i can clean it and install the new bearings/seals. I also pulled the cams out of the cali head as well as the nh head. as soon as i get the valve puller tool set i ordered i'll pull an intake valve from the nh head, clean it up and put it into the ca head.....i also ordered a head gasket so once some of these parts arrive ill be able to put the motor together and get it in the car. i am debating on weather or not to use the dual friction disk i have that is a little to small or bite the bullet and get a stg 3 clutch that will probably hold the power i should be making once this is all done.....
3bAudios

Post by 3bAudios »

quick one, been working on the block, have new bearings coming:
my 2 heads, front one is for a doner valve
Image
turbo manifold and t3 60 trim
Image

block awaiting cleaning
Image
intercooler mounted
Image
3bAudios

Post by 3bAudios »

spent a little time today on the car, did a quick cleaning of the block, basically poured gas over it and gave it a quick scrubbing.
then i dried it with compressed air, installed the new bearings in the block cleaned the crank real quick and got it back in and tq'd down with some ARP assembly lube. Then i switched gears real quick and started to put the oil return fitting into the oil pan. Couldnt find one out of mild steel so had to get a brass one. Planning on tapping the hold so it will thread in and then using JB weld. Not my ideal situation but i tried to source a mild steel fitting at a couple places and then gave up and just got the brass one. I read over on vortex that people have used it for this purpose before....keeping my fingers crossed....pics:
Image
Image
Image

Image
3bAudios

Post by 3bAudios »

working on the oil return today, still need to JB weld it in there.....
Image

Image
Image
3bAudios

Post by 3bAudios »

Last night i mixed up the JB weld for the oil return flange and slapped it on after cleaning and roughing it up a bit.....also picked up a new welder, its way bigger than it looked in the pics, should be able to weld most any of the orchard equipment we have.....

Image
Image

Image
HT Motorsport
Posts: 350
Joined: Wed Feb 27, 2013 11:56 am

Post by HT Motorsport »

Nice welder Bill, yeah that should handle the big stuff for sure. I would recommend checking the gun, feed mechanism and feed sheath as they are really the only parts that wear out.

Now you can really do some fabricaiton :)

H
3bAudios

Post by 3bAudios »

timmmy wrote:Nice welder Bill, yeah that should handle the big stuff for sure. I would recommend checking the gun, feed mechanism and feed sheath as they are really the only parts that wear out.

Now you can really do some fabricaiton :)

H


Yea I am going to have to do some stuff to get it to running 100% there is something wrong with the MIG leed i guess, I havent really had much of a chance to look at it much since i got it last night. But its a pretty nice, MIG and is able to be stick as well, i just need to find some leeds for the stick which it didnt come with.....all in all not a bad machine for 350 bucks, and the guy i got it from was a race car driver i guess, kenny white jr i guess?? i dont know what series he was in but it was def. a big left hand turn....he was working on the racecar when i went to pick it up last night, we talked about the car a bit and i told him about the sick project your building....
3bAudios

Post by 3bAudios »

Did some work today, got some of the block re assembeled and put the head back together.
Image

This gasket was a real PITA to get off.
Image
Image
Image
3bAudios

Post by 3bAudios »

I am in the market for another 1.8 bottom end as when i took out the intermediate shaft i found that the bearing was shot and even after honing the cylinder bores still had some markings on them from rust so I think im just going to try to find another one to use....


started the exhaust today.....got from the rear over the rear beam (had to noch it a bit to get the 3" over....

Image

Image
3bAudios

Post by 3bAudios »

got a bit more done on the exhaust...the end looks like crap because I dont have any money to get new 3" tubing so I am scraping together peices I have cut out of the exhaust from the old 90 project....it took a bit of massaging to get the 3" pipe over the rear beam, but i got it to fit :)
Image
Image

Image
Longitudinal
Posts: 107
Joined: Sun Mar 03, 2013 1:29 am

Post by Longitudinal »

Bill, that rear main seal is in farther than it should be. It should be flush with the outside lip of the housing. You may want to remove it and push it back out a bit before you get too far along. It may not mean anything, but it may be worth straightening up now while the oil pan is off and the engine is not in the car.
3bAudios

Post by 3bAudios »

Thanks for in input, but i am actually looking for a new bottom end as the intermediate shaft bearings were toast as well as the cyl bores had some issues with rust that didn't hone out enough for my liking so I am just looking for a new bottom end....anyone have a good 1.8L bottom end kicking around?
3bAudios

Post by 3bAudios »

today I got my 2nd block torn down a bit....looks much better than the first one :D
3bAudios

Post by 3bAudios »

OK, today i went to the garage for about an hour or so.....I was going to try to swap my new used pistons/rods into my new used block which is a lot better than the old one that i decided to scrap...but i didnt get them in....first thing i had to do was swap the drive gear on the intermediate shaft, but of course they are different between the 8v and the 16v so i had to swap the whole shaft, the bearing was a little messed up but i dont have time to get it replaced so i just left it...its not under load anyway so i hope it will be fine...i lubed the 2 bearing points with ARP assembly lube and re-installed it and put the new gear on. Then i had to swap the crank pully but I had a hard time finding the 16v tbelt pully but i did end up finding it and getting it started, i'll tq it down later on in the build. I also re installed the crank shaft gasket + end cap with new gasket and a light coating of RTV....then i pulled the oil pump so it would be easier to pull the pistons next time i get into the garage....
3bAudios

Post by 3bAudios »

Worked on the rocco again today, mounted the battery in the trunk:
Image


Pulled one piston from the new block to compare it to the 3B pistons:
Image
it looks the the GTI had better rods than the 16v....I think i may use the stock rods as they have the cooling passage...what do you guys think?
The 3b is on the left:

Image

Then i did a bit of grinding to get the 3" pipe over the rear beam:
Image
the exhaust so far:
Image
Chad T

Post by Chad T »

That one on the right looks like a shortened 3b rod. Can't tell which one is better though. 3b rods aren't super strong.
3bAudios

Post by 3bAudios »

I wasnt going to use the 3b rods, they are stock 16v rods....the 3b ones looked like they could use some machine work as when you put the caps on you could feel a little groove which you couldnt on the 16v ones....
3bAudios

Post by 3bAudios »

worked again for a few hours tonight....got the pistons and rods in...ended up having to use the 16v rods, i would have liked to use the ones that were in there, but i couldn't get the ARP rodbolts out so i just said screw it....I dont think they were that much stronger anyway.....
Here is the block with the rod journals all covered over, ready to Hone
Image
When putting the last piston in it would not go in because it was not tight enough
Image
so i broke a ring...im a dumb ass....
Image
so i replaced the broken rings and got it all together
Image
I also thew the oil pump back on
Image
Mowgli

Post by Mowgli »

Excellent engine carnage with a respectable recovery :-)
Mowgli

Post by Mowgli »

Excellent engine carnage with a respectable recovery :-)
3bAudios

Post by 3bAudios »

Mowgli wrote:Excellent engine carnage with a respectable recovery :-)


yea, the motor blew pretty good eh!!!! I hop this new one will last for a little longer!!
3bAudios

Post by 3bAudios »

More work today. installed the arp headbolts, had to clean up the threads in the head first, but then they went in fine with some arp assembly lube. then i put the headgasket on, one of the guide pins was in a different spot than the hole on the headgasket so i had to do some custom modification to get the headgasket on....but after the mod it went on fine and i lubed up the washers and bolts and tq'd the head down, 30,42,60,75 lbs in the correct order. then i put on the accessory pullys and the timing belt and tesnioner...
1/2 arp bolts in
Image
head gasket mod
Image
on the block
Image

all installed
Image
Post Reply