Loxxrider's 200 20v Revver: See you on "The Project Pad"

[Kuma]

Chris. Side boob.

[loxxrider]

They didn't give a recommendation for the bearing ID. Its not 5/8. The OD of the smooth part of the shaft is 16.9mm.

[nuugen]

Fedex tracking # 911391715000612

[loxxrider]

awesomeeeee thanks man

I worked a lot today on figuring out what the dimensions of the c-clip groove should be, etc.

[oldsklaudidub]

They didn't give a recommendation for the bearing ID. Its not 5/8. The OD of the smooth part of the shaft is 16.9mm.

I left a message for Koni, I want to get to the bottom of this (I am confused about the dimensions I found last night). A 1mm difference (5/8"=15.875mm) does not add up in my book; the fitment in the stock upper strut mount needs to be exact, there cannot be any play between the "smooth part" on the shaft and the metal sleeve in the strut mount. If there was any play, your ride would have lots of vibration along with other symptoms.

I want to get to the bottom of this now b/c if there is in fact a difference between the two struts, I want you to be able to pick two bearings with the same OD, thickness, etc so that the new mounts are the same (if possible).

Chris as you said, you want the T44 owners to have options.

[loxxrider]

Yeah, that'd be nice...but the bearings all have different OD's for each ID.

I'll measure on the one I get when I get it to be positive of course. I don't see how there is a 1mm difference either.

[oldsklaudidub]

Yeah, that'd be nice...but the bearings all have different OD's for each ID.

I'll measure on the one I get when I get it to be positive of course. I don't see how there is a 1mm difference either.

I am just applying some elementary rational on this like I did for the bracket project on that "other" thread. I just don't get it :?

[k2exoman]

Not sure if you saw this on QW yet, but it's great inspiration for the lowering project...
http://stanceworks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10970

[loxxrider]

Ah, hadn't seen that thread yet. I know the car well however. I don't need to get quite that extreme lol. Maybe on a V8Q someday though...

[loxxrider]

I finally found my bearing of choice after talking to Aurora today. Cost is $37.99 a piece, so...yeah these aint gonna be cheap. They did encourage me to try and get into PRI this year; that would be awesome.

Also, I am rocking some new wheels for the weekend. I've heard some funky sounds from the front end of the Audi lately and when I went to jack up the front, I noticed that the front passenger wheel shifted a LOT towards the front of the car. It moves a significant amount when I try and move it in the air. I am going to take a better look at it now. Not sure what it is, but its dangerous. I'm thinking control arm or something.

[apavlov13]

Dang that is pricey. Do you know how you're gonna mount these suckers? Perhaps press them into a seat that bolts in to the strut tower?

[loxxrider]

Well, I wanted to have a shoulder on the bottom of the bearing and a snap-ring on the top. They will hold the weight just fine, but I am worried about what people will think about it since they will just be bench racing instead of doing actual calculations with knowledge of what a snap ring will hold. In reality, the snap ring I would like to use will hold about 8,000 pounds per corner of the car...

So I may do a snap ring on the bottom and a shoulder on the top. Snap ring on the top would make for much easier removal, its just not very marketable.

They won't be a press fit. Thats not so hot for alternating axial loads. I have the design...I'll post pictures as it comes along.

[k2exoman]

Despite the bearing cost, I think it will be cheaper than any of the other 'similar' solutions out there...

considering the 2bennett camber plate system is $595 plus $325 retrofit for the 200....

I am anxious to see what you come up with...

[cuatrokoop]

Chris....Just snap ring top/bottom.......Seriously.

[nuugen]

Chris....Just snap ring top/bottom.......Seriously.

:stupid:

[loxxrider]

Yeah...thats what I think too!! I keep getting shit from everyone though lol. It would be the easiest and most convenient solution.

[loxxrider]

oh and say hi to my new rollers







oh and no matter how much I try and slam the 200, the 90 is STILL lower!!! at stock height lol

Also, these wheels look small on the car. I think its all in the tire choice. Still, I think my next wheels will have to be 19's. The gallardo wheels I've had my eyes on sound perfect. Thats a few years down the road though. I've got much more important things to spend money on Makes me scurred for the 17" BBS's...they are going to have to have a REALLY meaty tire to make them look anywhere near decent, if at all. Anyway, enough of this wheel BS, back to suspension talk!

speaking of which, here are some features of the bearings. They are a really nice piece. They'll have much more longevity than other options.

# Race - Stainless steel (17-4PH per AMS 5643), heat treated Ptfe Lined.
# Ball - Alloy steel, heat treated, hard chrome plated.
# Ptfe liner - (AT 3200) Permanently bonded to race inside diameter. Qualified to SAE-AS81820 (formerly MIL-B-81820).

[nuugen]

200 looks lower..

[loxxrider]

it does indeed look lower, but its not!

[oldsklaudidub]

I like the new rims, what are the specs on them?

Onto the mounts:
I did not get a call back from koni yet, I will call them on monday, I dont want to keep you waiting sry Chris.

I like this top/bottom snap ring idea as long as the snap rings are actually heavy duty enough.

[loxxrider]

I'm just borrowing the SLR wheels

anyway, don't worry about the Konis. It doesn't matter. I'm making them modular. Should accept any strut known to man.

Just got another top hat from A1 racing for design purposes. Modeled it asap



Also my new fun toys finally came in. I like my green

[85oceanic]

Ok, I'm going to be the dumb one right now and ask... what are the green "T"s for?

[apavlov13]

My best guess is water/methanol injection. Ya?

[Kuma]

if it were water methanol, you wouldnt need that many attachments. Its usually just one hole drilled into the IM.

[loxxrider]

Nope, its for all of my vac lines. I'm converting everything to push-to-connect. You just push the line in there and its sealed. To release it, you just pull back on the green thing and it comes out. No zip-ties or hose clamps required

I got 100 feet of vac line with it to redo the whole car if I want. For now, its going to take care of the connections to my boost gauge, BOV, WG, FPR, ECU, and a few misc things. No vac leaks evAr!

I s'pose they'd come in useful for a w/m setup in the future if I wanted to though. I like to color code my stuff, so all my vac is green. I'd get another color for w/m.