Loxxrider's 200 20v Revver: See you on "The Project Pad"

Justin517 · Post by **Justin517** » Mon Apr 13, 2009 5:30 am

I woudlnt run that turbine housing, its a 16cm² itll spool at like 5000+ rpms. At first I wasnt sure if it was even a HX35 because the cold side looked so tiny... the 16cm² exhaust housing maybe just dwarfed it...? I'm still not sure because HX35s have the anti-surge ports machined around the main inlet on the compressor housing, whats the part# on the tag?

If it is an HX35... get a 12cm² housing or one of those bullseye housings.

loxxrider · Post by **loxxrider** » Mon Apr 13, 2009 5:50 am

Its not an Hx35, its an H1C.

I'm not worried about the housing size. I am quite knowledgeable about the sizing etc. I guarantee you it won't spool that late. I was actually recommended to go with an 18cm.

My concern is more the comp side keeping up with the exh. side...but that is something we will have to find out while tuning.

If you'd like some real world evidence...this dude (with a KA to boot) says his spools at 3200 RPMs. (full boost) His has the exact same part number, etc. as mine does.

If for some reason it doesn't make good power, I will definitely sell it and pick up an Hx or something.

nuugen · Post by **nuugen** » Mon Apr 13, 2009 6:38 am

No, it won't spool that late, but it won't make full boost until ~3800-4k on a 5-cylinder..A friend of mine had that exact turbo on one of his many 200's.. It is a more linear unit than an RS2 snail, though, so it will have an onset much sooner...I say use it, especially if you got it for a song..
What EM are you going to use?

loxxrider · Post by **loxxrider** » Mon Apr 13, 2009 6:46 am

Yes, I did get it for a song lol...I can't help but use it. Its so easy to throw on, and if I want something else, I'll just throw that on just as easy.

3800 rpm sounds about right for sure. Thats not bad at all.

I plan to use the cast mani on ebay for a while. If it cracks, I'll just weld it up. I will be beginning to make my own custom mani as soon as possible over the summer or maybe the fall, so don't worry...I won't be keeping the ebay one on forever.

Onwardtothestars · Post by **Onwardtothestars** » Mon Apr 13, 2009 7:19 am

loxxrider wrote:.....
I plan to use the cast mani on ebay for a while. If it cracks, I'll just weld it up. I will be beginning to make my own custom mani as soon as possible over the summer or maybe the fall, so don't worry...I won't be keeping the ebay one on forever.

What cast manifold do you have ? The RS2 style knock off ?

loxxrider · Post by **loxxrider** » Mon Apr 13, 2009 7:22 am

I don't have it yet, but here is a pic of the manifold.

Justin517 · Post by **Justin517** » Mon Apr 13, 2009 7:35 am

yeah 5000rpm was a bit of an exageration, I was going to run a 9cm² HY35 on the coupe project I had for a little while, but I also wasnt planning on running it over 7000 rpm (was keeping the dist.... 7A with 9:1 JE pistons) and wanted full boost under 3000 or so RPM...

I guess we are just looking for different goals.

loxxrider · Post by **loxxrider** » Mon Apr 13, 2009 9:02 am

Yeah, I'm not any stranger to late spool, higher RPM stuff. I had a 50 trim that probably didn't make full boost until about 4200 on my last car. Its sweet spot where it was just beginning to pull was right around 3500 though.

I plan to rev to 8.5k eventually. Mostly because I'm sure the sound is ludicrous.

BillyWillicker · Post by **BillyWillicker** » Mon Apr 13, 2009 9:47 am

OK, That turbo is going to seriously disappoint you. The sizing guide on the H series holset turbos goes like this:

H1C, H series, turbine wheel 1, compressor wheel C. In the H series there are 2 turbine sizes, 1 and 2, the second digit in the model dictates turbine wheel size. For compresor wheels there are 5 wheel sizes, A through E, A being the smallest, E the largest. A W in the first model digit dictates a wastegated turbo.

The specific housing sizes and specific wheel dimensions within the broad model code are decribed in the part # of the turbo. There are 3 sets of numbers on Holset turbos, Model #, Part # and Serial #.

Your specific turbo being an H1C is an externally wastegated turbo with a small turbine and a middle size(read small) compressor size. The compressor will flow good for 300-350 crank HP, boost will come in late, around 3500-3800rpm. Your engine will feel like a really big 7a engine. The reason being that boost will come in after the engines peak torque.

When looking for an older plain H series holset, the H1E is very close in wheel size to a HX-35w. An H1A will choke any audi 5, H1B will choke a 20v, will make a linear 20v with no "punch", H1C will make a linear 20v, slightly "punchy" 20v, H1D will make a punchy 20v and a strong 20v, and an H1E will make a really nasty combo on either 20v or 20v.

I think you should still put the turbo on your car because it will allow you to be able to upgrade to any larger H,HX,HY and even garrett T3 or GT series turbo in the future. Leave some good clearance around the cold side(like 2"-3" from all sides) for future growth. The larger compressor holsets have huge compressor housings on them.

Anyways, I'm not saying that is a bad turbo or anything, just that you wont get the power you're looking for, however you will gain the tuning knowledge and a very dynamic platform for different size turbos on your car.

Good luck

loxxrider · Post by **loxxrider** » Mon Apr 13, 2009 11:43 am

I definitely see where you are coming from. I actually thought it was one of the bigger comp housing ones before I got it, but I can't complain. Its still going on the car.

I don't care that its going to spool super late. Its kinda exciting that way. Ill be used to late spool when it comes to the big boy later on too

Like you said though, its still going on the car because it will take positively NO extra work to put something bigger on (except to put weld a bigger v-band onto the dp for something that uses a 3" one). Remember, this is just my intermediate step to get me a little more power while the badass stuff awaits.

That is unless I can sell it and pick up an hx for the same price while I get all the other parts together.

derrish_vulf · Post by **derrish_vulf** » Mon Apr 13, 2009 6:22 pm

Ssssoooo is it on yet?

rallynz · Post by **rallynz** » Mon Apr 13, 2009 7:20 pm

Yeah...that sucker takes forever to spool on my 6BT...and it has about 3.8 liters of displacement on ya...

I have a friend who put an HX35W on his 2.3T Ford...but it has a twin scroll header, and starts to make boost at 1700 rpm...(max at 30)...but then again, twin scroll doesn't really work on an Audi

Since it's an H1C with the 16cm housing it's off a 89-91.5 truck...so it actually has a larger housing than my WH1C...

Talk about your slow spoolz

loxxrider · Post by **loxxrider** » Mon Apr 13, 2009 7:23 pm

lol oh well. It will be interesting. If nothing else, another H1C (bigger) or HX35 will go on.

loxxrider · Post by **loxxrider** » Wed Apr 15, 2009 4:49 pm

So I just won the UF bench press competition! I'm all smiles for a while.

No updates on the car really other than it runs like ass when it rains...can the hall sensor be affected by dampness?

Also, here is a wakeboarding vid from a while ago that I was finally able to edit about a week ago.

WARNING: there is really bad language in the music lol...most of you will probably hate the music choice, but I chose it because I think it flows with the vid. Make sure to watch in high quality.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zMpSHX_dx7Y

derrish_vulf · Post by **derrish_vulf** » Wed Apr 15, 2009 5:57 pm

damn you floridians and your nice weather :slap:

loxxrider · Post by **loxxrider** » Sat Apr 18, 2009 8:51 am

so before I go outside and charge my AC later today...

if you are looking from underneath the car, the little black cap towards the front (front of car) side of the compressor is where the low pressure charge port is correct?

I will turn on the car, jump the compressor (by shorting the low pressure switch) and let it draw into the system.

Sound good?

yodasfro · Post by **yodasfro** » Sat Apr 18, 2009 8:55 am

I think most people use the high pressure port up under the rain tray.

loxxrider · Post by **loxxrider** » Sat Apr 18, 2009 9:46 am

This is from the page previous to this...

cuatrokoop wrote:There's a port on the compressor you can use, I can't remember exactly where. It's on the low side. Newer Audis get charged on the high-side and as such cannot be serviced by people w/out the special equipment...

I mean it would definitely be much easier to do it up top...but aren't you supposed to do it from the low pressure side? I don't have anything fancy, just a can with gauge, etc.

yodasfro · Post by **yodasfro** » Sat Apr 18, 2009 10:00 am

Then you should probably use the low side port. If it were me I'd let an a/c shop handle it.

loxxrider · Post by **loxxrider** » Sat Apr 18, 2009 10:12 am

Hmmm OK thanks. I figured I'd give it a shot myself before spending $70 or something around that to get a charge.

I'll see what happens I guess. At the worst, it won't work and I'll have to go take it to get charged on a fancy machine. We shall see. I'll report back after I try.

loxxrider · Post by **loxxrider** » Sat Apr 18, 2009 11:31 am

mmmmkay so the fitting on the compressor and the fitting on the can aren't even close. Either I have located the wrong fitting, or the fitting is not standard.

**EDIT** just thought of something...

the previous owner said the car was converted to use r134. Thats why I assumed that it would be plug and play to just go get a can of it.

Now I realized that the fill fitting is probably the one that is for r12. Guess I need to figure out a way to hook it up now.

loxxrider · Post by **loxxrider** » Sat Apr 18, 2009 3:53 pm

PO confirmed that the car was converted back in May 08.

That kinda sucks though because that means its probably got a leak. The can o' stuff I bought has some kind of leak stopper crap in it though.

I suppose I just need to get the little adapter fitting that I need and then I'll be off.

On another note, the car has been acting up when its wet out. Obviously its not running on the distributor, but it is using the hall sensor for reference of course.

When the car was still on distributor it started to run like shit when it was wet out. I knew what the problem was because it ran beautifully when it was dry. It seemed to be spark problems...it would start sputtering, etc.

Well now it can't have spark problems related to that...but I was driving it the other day and it just wasn't making power. It was making full boost though. I said to myself "this feels like there isn't enough timing in the map".

So can the Hall sensor be affected by the moisture-damaged distributor? I'm not going to buy another distributor...so what are my options? To be honest, I really don't know how the two interrelate.

cuatrokoop · Post by **cuatrokoop** » Sat Apr 18, 2009 7:03 pm

The conversion kits come with newcaps and low pressure fittings. At least the ones I've used...

loxxrider · Post by **loxxrider** » Sat Apr 18, 2009 8:32 pm

cuatrokoop wrote:The conversion kits come with newcaps and low pressure fittings. At least the ones I've used...

He said it was done at a shop in Ft. Meyers...so I have no idea what went down. All I know is that it was supposedly done.

and just another question to put out there for the heck of it...

I will be replacing all of the power steering hoses and maybe the reservoir when I replace the rack...is there any particular brand of hoses you would recommend? (anyone)

yodasfro · Post by **yodasfro** » Sat Apr 18, 2009 8:56 pm

Which hose? The high pressure hose? I just got one from http://www.germanautoparts.com/ Cheapest place I could find it, now for the fun part replacing it lol. You shouldn't need to replace the reservoir unless it's cracked.
What I'd do is clamp of the hose running to the bomb, undo the clamp on the bomb and drain the fluid from there. You clean the reservoir with brake cleaner and gunk engine cleaner. As far as the other hoses go the line from the res. to the bomb is just a hose so a trip to napa and some gates 5/16th tranny cooler line and you're set there.
The return line from the rack and be trimmed if it's not totally bad and the clamp replaced with one these style clamps. Same with the booster line return. The suction hose can be replaced with standard hydraulic hose and clamps since it isn't high pressure. http://www.motorgeek.com/phpBB2/viewtop ... light=hose

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