Well I guess it is time for an update to maybe push me a little in getting something done on the car. As you saw above the car is finely registered and legal to drive. It runs well, but is lacking in ponies. I aim to remedy that in the next little bit. My plan is to replace the stock 20vt with a mildly built 20vt.
The short list of parts. AAN bottom end 7A head Scat rods Coated mains and rod bearings Arp main studs along with Arp head studs 3B intake manifold 034 cast log exhaust manifold IIc ECU 65lbs Seimens injectors Borg Warner EFR 7064 turbo Custom downpipe Spec 3+ clutch Fidenza aluminum lightweight flywheel
I plan on new rings on the stock AAN pistons. The rotating assembly will be balanced to be used with the Scat rods, aluminum flywheel, and a V-belt 7A configuration damper/pulley setup. The 7A head will be rebuilt with a mild port and polish, new seals, lightened lifters, ti retainers, and water manifold upgrade. I chose to go with the 7A for a couple of reasons. They don't usually have the hard running that a turbo motor sees and thus less cracking between the valves. The AAN head still had the distributor hole so that didn't play into the choice and the AAN with the bosses up front for the cam position sensor makes it a more valuable head. (I'll probably sell it off)
I have never been a big fan of internally waste gated turbos, but the idea of a clean install with the log mani was appealing. That and I'm really itching to see how the new EFR turbos run. The 7064 is Borg Warner's http://www.full-race.com/store/turbos/b ... turbo.html offering to compete with the Garrett GT3071. http://www.full-race.com/store/turbos/g ... urbo1.html For those of you that haven't read up on them they sound like they will be pretty nice pieces although they are a bit pricey. At first take I thought no way am I going to pay that kind of money, but when you factor in not having to spend three or four hundred dollars on a wastegate with v-clamps and hardware to install and not having another couple of hundred out for a blow off valve not to mention the integrated boost control solenoid, they start sounding better. Hank and I talked with the Borg Warner group at Sema this year and held the gamma ti aluminite hotside turbine wheel. It is about half the weight of say an inconel equivalent. This should translate into less inertia to overcome and faster spool . Along with the light hotside the cold side is a forged/milled piece that should add to the spool and is good for about 75 more HP worth of air as compared to the 3071. It should make for a nice clean install and good DD performance. We wll see.
The biggest problem I have right now is trying to get past the feeling bad about kicking out the stock 20vt, but I believe the time has come. Here is a vid of one of the last times the 20vt will run in Her Urq.
One of the first things that I knew had to be done that I could save a few pennies was to come up with a trigger wheel for the IIc to look at crank position. I bought a 6" wheel from 034 and dug out a nice looking 7A damper pulley to machine and attach the wheel to.
After machining off the thickness of the wheel from the inside of the pulley and cutting down the hub to where the wheel pretty much was a press fit I had this.
I then contemplated about whether to weld or attach with fasteners. Welding cast is always iffy, although Hank has run a welded one for quite some time now. Part of the problem with welding is that it is really hard to get the heat in enough to weld without distorting and warping the wheel. I wanted a tight flush fit seeing as the clearaces between the wheel and the oil pump aren't much and I wanted as clean a signal from the VR sensor as I could get. A wheel that wobbles doesn't help either of these. The wheel also has to be attached to the inner portion of the damper so that the movement of the rubber mounted pulleys don't affect the wheel to sensor calibration. I opted for fastening to the hub. There isn't much room, but I managed to drill and tap 6 #6/32 bevel head screws into the hub. I then counter sunk the wheel for a flush finish and used locktite on the screws. I'm happy with the results and it has no wobble what so ever.
7A damper/pulley with 60/2 tooth trigger wheel attached
I thought that I would be able to run it stock and build His Urq as the hot rod, but I get tired of the run of the mill accords jumping me off the line. The 20vt head is seeping coolant into a cylinder or two and if I'm going to go that far to fix it, I'd just as soon really fix it.
It became Her Urq when I brought it home and told the wife that I always wanted something him and hers since we got married, so why not Urqs. I'm still working on that however, thinking more power might help convince her. :-)
John, I know you've had the ceremonial last run, but if yours still starts can you just make sure you have 12v all the time when cranking to the coil + (terminal 15)? You'll need to disconnect the coil lead so it doesn't start I guess. If yours does, I need an ignition switch, if it doesn't than I am still hunting. Hopefully, I'm not too late. That's gonna be a killer car btw.
As sad as it is to see this clean engine removed, I have seen pictures of the next motor.... It is uber clean. I think that Mike Sylvester's car will be a good bench mark for Herr car. My Dad has an incredible attention for detail, and the build up has shown nothing less!! With the 034 wastegateless manifold, and the EFR internal gate, this bay is going to have all the musts(450whp potential) with none of the clutter. It will be a dream to work on, and have modern, working AC. I think my dad is onto something with the mild monster URQ plans!
82 Audi Ur-q, SQ project 83 Audi 80 q, Euro 2-Door 85 Audi Ur-q, Euro mit 3B 91 Coupe Quattro 93 Audi 80 q Avant, 2.5 TDI with 6-speed 04 Audi A4 1.8Tq Avant USP 6-speed 04 Audi A4 3.0q Avant USP 6-speed
I came home from work this morning, checked MG and saw no responses, and went to bed for the day. Upon getting up this afternoon to get ready to go back to work I see all these comments. First of all, thanks for all the encouragment and even the nice 20vt comments. It makes me feel like maybe Im not so neurotic when I see others with the same love and concern for the stock 20vt. It WAS a nice looking stock engine bay, but alas we move on.
ralleyquattro wrote:That was a pretty 20v
What was that sharp pain I just felt in my chest? Actually Martin, one of your comments in another thread about a 20vt in the Urqs is what pushed me over the top. Hopefully it will turn out well enough to make me not regret my choice. Like Hank says, I've been agonizing over this decision for months now. LOL
John, I know you've had the ceremonial last run, but if yours still starts can you just make sure you have 12v all the time when cranking to the coil + (terminal 15)? You'll need to disconnect the coil lead so it doesn't start I guess. If yours does, I need an ignition switch, if it doesn't than I am still hunting. Hopefully, I'm not too late. That's gonna be a killer car btw.
Sean, you know that I've been telling you for quite some time that the time was fast approaching that there wouldn't be Her Urq available to swap in parts to test, but because I want your car to run almost as badly as you do I decided to get up this afternoon and run your test for you. You probably aren't going to like the results, but here they are. I put the meter on the coil and had 0vdc with the key off, on, cranking, or otherwise.
As I said further up the thread, I planned on using the 7A head instead of the AAN head that come on the long block. One of the first things that had to be done after initial cleanup of the head was machine in the 3B water manifold. Being that I don't have access to a CNC machine I was stuck with either paying someone to do the work or manually do it myself and being the cheap type a guy that I am I opted for the latter. After all I was saving for the EFR turbo. LOL
I first made up a template to use to mark and drill out the 7A head
It was then bolted to the 7A head to mark for drilling and tapping.
This second UrQ has been my nemesis, it tears my heart out to see you work on this car while my old one hangs helplessly from a rotisserie shoved over to the side of the garage.
Oh, and figure out how to make the tach work while you're at it. I'll need a working tach to sell my blue car lol
This second UrQ has been my nemesis, it tears my heart out to see you work on this car while my old one hangs helplessly from a rotisserie shoved over to the side of the garage.
Oh, and figure out how to make the tach work while you're at it. I'll need a working tach to sell my blue car lol[/quote]
Sean, you ought to like me learning on Her Urq and not having to make all of those "first time" mistakes on His Urq that is shoved into the corner. LOL
If selling the Blue Pill is contingent on getting the tach to work, I guess it's pretty safe to say that there will still be a blue Urq in your garage to run a GTG in Las Vegas when I get Her Urq back on the road. You had me worried for awhile with all this selling talk.
What was that sharp pain I just felt in my chest? Actually Martin, one of your comments in another thread about a 20vt in the Urqs is what pushed me over the top.
I believe the 20vt is the motor Ur-q was made for, just razzin you. I was going through the same dilema with my Euro '85.. it was a beautiful 20vt. But once swapped for a 20vt, never looked back. Before After
82 Audi Ur-q, SQ project 83 Audi 80 q, Euro 2-Door 85 Audi Ur-q, Euro mit 3B 91 Coupe Quattro 93 Audi 80 q Avant, 2.5 TDI with 6-speed 04 Audi A4 1.8Tq Avant USP 6-speed 04 Audi A4 3.0q Avant USP 6-speed
