The Project Pad

cuatrokoop wrote:Agree....You could run 245-255's up front and a 225-235 out back and possibly get some neutrality along with some suspension tweaking (spring and damper rates) that won't give you snap O.S. Something to think about.

That's exactly what MTM did with their RSR...
http://www.s2-audi.co.uk/articles/vag_jul_95.htm

Those are not stock Coupe flares - what are they??

Edit: I guess article says Mayer modified stock arches to fit 265s...really, with correct offset and 9" wheel you could easily do this with somewhat agressive rolling of the fenders, rolling not just inner lip but also pulling the edge of the fender out a bit - it's what I did F&R.

Anton has a RSR front; he may be able to tell us if the fenders are modified Audi or MTM.

what wing is that on the green car?

I've been looking for a solution to the 200 20v's anemic fender flares as well... I had considered the UR-S fenders, so I'll be watching this closely!

Rieger sedan wing.

I found my clunk, it was not a broken mount, but a loose right front ball joint. Likely left over from the last time I tried to have a shop align the car. :sigh: Looks like it is string alignments from here on.

I think I have a bad shift collar causing the stiffer than usual 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd engagement.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=etE85I8aKSs

You too? hehe.

Mine has been protesting as well.. It seems like you can work it out slightly if you just sit stopped and do the 1-2 shift over and over again. after 100 reps, it gets better. Still not as good as originally, but better.

I really want to spring for the updated collar Cryo treated.

ShavedQuattro wrote:You too? hehe.

Mine has been protesting as well.. It seems like you can work it out slightly if you just sit stopped and do the 1-2 shift over and over again. after 100 reps, it gets better. Still not as good as originally, but better.

I really want to spring for the updated collar Cryo treated.

I may try that. I can deal with it, as long as it doesn't lock up on me I am fine with it. What a silly failure.

I have had mine frozen, and had to force it quite a bit.

1st to 2nd is super fragile in these transmissions.

These would be pure function but I wonder if they are close enough to work: http://store.nexternal.com/shared/Store ... 2=22727608

Nice, they are local, in fact I was just up there today.

Not having been next to an E30, and thinking about this, I cannot think of how different the profile is.

The 2nd gear collar is pretty much locked up, *sigh*. I am beginning to think I am destined to run without a second gear. 1st is a bit difficult, but still works, what are the chances of it totally freezing up first gear? As of now I am still going to run Thunderhill, but minus second gear. I can start the car in third if I must...

On a positive note I fixed my rough idle today that I have ALWAYS had. I was playing with dwell and based on our discussion earlier I backed off the main dwell #. Then I read the description for minimum dwell that says it allows for a hotter spark at idle and is measured in degrees of engine rotation. I had a value of 10, so I put in 40. The idle jumped up about 150 rpms and is silky smooth now. Wow. 35 worked pretty well, but my initial swing at 40 was still the best.

audifreakjim wrote:The 2nd gear collar is pretty much locked up, *sigh*. I am beginning to think I am destined to run without a second gear. 1st is a bit difficult, but still works, what are the chances of it totally freezing up first gear? As of now I am still going to run Thunderhill, but minus second gear. I can start the car in third if I must...

This is a classic 1-2 collar and syncro failure. First will eventually totally lock up, and that means no reverse, and a burnt out clutch starting off in 3rd.

Throw the 5 speed in for the weekend, Throw the 2 busted 6 speeds into the trunk, get Scott to throw us a 3 pack of everything at an awesome geeker price, and lets fix all three of them at once

thats a lot of sweet stuff being thrown...

Hey Jim

My vote would be to punt on Thunderhill and just get the thing fixed. When you cut back on one thing you end up buggering something else.

Hap, with some kind of hawaiian logic near Everboost, Maguire

audifreakjim wrote:The 2nd gear collar is pretty much locked up, *sigh*. I am beginning to think I am destined to run without a second gear. 1st is a bit difficult, but still works, what are the chances of it totally freezing up first gear? As of now I am still going to run Thunderhill, but minus second gear. I can start the car in third if I must...

On a positive note I fixed my rough idle today that I have ALWAYS had. I was playing with dwell and based on our discussion earlier I backed off the main dwell #. Then I read the description for minimum dwell that says it allows for a hotter spark at idle and is measured in degrees of engine rotation. I had a value of 10, so I put in 40. The idle jumped up about 150 rpms and is silky smooth now. Wow. 35 worked pretty well, but my initial swing at 40 was still the best.

Try 20 or 25, 40 is a bit much and could cook the coils at lower RPMs.

The purpose of that field is to provide a minimum dwell at low RPMs to make a sufficiently hot spark.
This has the effect of running higher than programmed dwell times than your base dwell setting.

At some RPM, the duty cycle increases to the point that you run constant timed dwell instead of dwell% duty.

Thanks for timing in Jarid. I will try that tomorrow.

Hap, you may be right. For the cost of doing the event, I could pay for the parts to fix this which would be the responsible thing to do.

Hank, you might be on to something.

And then catch the 'bird afterwards for some freshies.

Or the 'boat

In your car IS that why you picked up a spare rs2 bumper? hehe

I can't stand all of this snow talk. I am too jealous.