Jim Green's 90q 20vt - 636whp 07k

Mcstiff · Post by **Mcstiff** » Mon Feb 07, 2011 9:17 am

timmmy wrote:

FYI I learned a lot developing this strut top and have a new version in mind that will give a lot more adjustment.

That would make life pretty easy; too bad I sold my MM231 :(

Post by **Hank** » Mon Feb 07, 2011 10:07 am

timmmy wrote:
a_CQ wrote:Great work, Jimmy!

Here's a simpler and lighter solution...

Piece of steel bent into the shape of the camber plate, welded on, and 4 couplers/nuts welded inside for CP to bolt to. CP goes on top so you get extra room without building tall base. It's held up just fine. Unfortunately I can't take credit for it but the shop that did it for me. $100 for labor per side without the plates.

Hey Peter,

Certainly lighter but less adjustment.The big problem I see with your setup is that all the suspension forces are being held by the 4 bolts in tension. the camber plates should be mounted on the underside of a heavy plate so they are in compression and are hence fail safe.

Just my 2c.

ps. Whoever did the welding there, don't let them weld anything else

If you look around at the subaru forums, you will see the failure point is not the bolts, but the actual aluminum plate. It fractures at the castor bolt location on the top, and runs along the camber slider. If you look at the mount, you can see that on these 3/8" plate, only about 3/4"x3/8" worth of cross section in 6061-t6 are responsible for supporting more than a fourth of the car static, and significantly more under breaking or chicago pothole duty. I have even heard of failures on the 3/4" version that I run in the same spot.

a_CQ · Post by **a_CQ** » Mon Feb 07, 2011 10:45 am

Thanks for the input guys. I'll keep an eye on them, but 2 years of track use and plenty of Chicago pothole'd roads, drive to Carlisle and back, MidOhio and back Road America and back and tons of other local tracks, to/from, and it's beed fine. Doesn't mean it will last forever, but...

Hank, the failuers you saw on Subarus, are the mounts mounted on same angle? Are the cars used in the winter, or do they see salt?? How heavy springs do they run and do their shocks bottom out? Plenty of factors can play role in damaging this. Just sayin'...

RSCoupe · Post by **RSCoupe** » Mon Feb 07, 2011 11:27 am

I have those same camber plates, and they are mounted on top, both is this car, and the old car. The driver side one in the old car even held up to the massive impact of the crash, with just a little bowing of the plate. No cracks at all.

Petar, have you done the usual, recommended, maintenance on yours (replace o-ring and regrease)? They might be due.

pkw · Post by **pkw** » Mon Feb 07, 2011 12:06 pm

The susp. hammering is kinda the X factor. I would always keep a close eye on any mod like this and always keep as much as possible in compression but what exactly has failed for others? I would worry most about the realities of welding myself. each screw will be good for a few thousand pounds and the mild stl good for a few thousand psi.

a_CQ · Post by **a_CQ** » Mon Feb 07, 2011 12:50 pm

Mark, i have not, but thanks for reminder I guess...

Peter, I think Hank is saying the actual aluminum plate was cracking on those Subarus.

Post by **Hank** » Mon Feb 07, 2011 12:59 pm

ill try and pull up pictures after class today, but yes, they are cracking along the 4 bolts on the top of the mount if you are looking at your ipcture you posted. That is a very small cross section if you look at it, and an obvious weak point.

That does raise an eyebrow that Mark's survived the tumble from hell though and BENT them rather than fracture..

PRA4WX · Post by **PRA4WX** » Tue Feb 08, 2011 4:22 pm

The reason they haven't failed on Peter's car nor Mark's and have on Subarus is clear...they're Subarus! ;-P

audifreakjim · Post by **audifreakjim** » Thu Feb 10, 2011 10:18 pm

Everything is about ready for paint! I added a stock B4 strut bar for now, I will make something better out of Heims and 1" thin wall one of these days.

Attachment ( 25093 ) : IMG_4156.JPG

Attachment ( 25094 ) : IMG_4152.JPG

Post by **Hank** » Thu Feb 10, 2011 10:53 pm

nice... looks really nice

quattro87 · Post by **quattro87** » Fri Feb 11, 2011 9:51 am

:stupid: Looking good Jim!!

Highlander · Post by **Highlander** » Fri Feb 11, 2011 10:28 am

Looking great Jim,

Just a thought, if it were me, I'd weld me up a man strut brace right to those plates.

That way you can control all that man power you've got there.

Looks bloody good though.

Cheers,

Craig Cook

audifreakjim · Post by **audifreakjim** » Fri Feb 11, 2011 1:05 pm

Nate, excellent point. I will probably drill and tap the second hole on this strut bar and call it good
I am pretty sure I am finished working today. The 17x9.5 rpf1's just arrived so I have some test fitting to do:)

Post by **HT Motorsport** » Fri Feb 11, 2011 2:17 pm

break out a flap disk on those top welds too Jim, an hour making em nice and clean will make a huge difference to the overall finished look. I also seam sealer'd over my welds to the fenders, inside and out so it looks more factory.

Agree with Nate on the strut bar too, something is better than nothing for sure.

Looking good man

What camber plates are those, I see engraving on them?

H

audifreakjim · Post by **audifreakjim** » Fri Feb 11, 2011 5:33 pm

Thanks, I will clean it up quite a bit, and seam seal as well. Brand new Ground Control, the look identical to another set I have here that are older without engraving. Maybe they wanted to make sure the design was sound before they put their name on it.

fasterthenrs2 · Post by **fasterthenrs2** » Fri Feb 11, 2011 6:52 pm

audifreakjim wrote:Nate, excellent point. I will probably drill and tap the second hole on this strut bar and call it good
I am pretty sure I am finished working today. The 17x9.5 rpf1's just arrived so I have some test fitting to do:)

we need picks

audifreakjim · Post by **audifreakjim** » Sat Feb 12, 2011 8:43 pm

OK, the current state of the car.

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This is a 275/40-17

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I had to take a break to enjoy San Diego today, the 100 years of Naval Aeronautics celebration was today, so we grabbed a sailboat and headed out!

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Attachment ( 25114 ) : IMG_0209.JPG

Jimmy G
'89 90tq the "vomit comet"
'01 A6, the "ocho" - Sold
''17 Q7

fasterthenrs2

Re: Jim Green's 90 20vt - 506whp

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Post by fasterthenrs2 » Sun Feb 13, 2011 4:54 am

damn thats a wide tire those wheels are awsome light as hell

audifreakjim: Posts: 2142; Joined: Sun Mar 03, 2013 3:00 pm

Re: Jim Green's 90 20vt - 506whp

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Post by audifreakjim » Sun Feb 13, 2011 11:25 am

They are insanely light and high quality. I don't love the look of the wheels, but you absolutely cannot beat them for the price. They would look better in gunmetal.

Jimmy G
'89 90tq the "vomit comet"
'01 A6, the "ocho" - Sold
''17 Q7

RSCoupe: Posts: 217; Joined: Sun Mar 03, 2013 4:31 pm

Re: Jim Green's 90 20vt - 506whp

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Post by RSCoupe » Sun Feb 13, 2011 11:48 am

audifreakjim wrote:They are insanely light and high quality. I don't love the look of the wheels, but you absolutely cannot beat them for the price. They would look better in gunmetal.

Absolutely agree. The look is ok, but the weight and quality are fantastic.
How about some BBS LM's? Those will be the next photochop onto my car. Not sure how light they are though...

Mark Siggelkow
'90 CQ-R - NASA GTS-4
'12 TT-RS (Wife's DD)
'00 A4 1.8TQ (My DD)
'62 356B (vintage racer)
'07 Toyota Tundra CrewMax (for towing/hauling)

audifreakjim: Posts: 2142; Joined: Sun Mar 03, 2013 3:00 pm

Re: Jim Green's 90 20vt - 506whp

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Post by audifreakjim » Sun Feb 13, 2011 11:56 am

I could get replica LM's for the price of these, but the real thing is 2-3x the cost, plus I swore I would never own another mesh style wheel because they are so hard to clean, these are pushing their luck just because of the split spokes

Jimmy G
'89 90tq the "vomit comet"
'01 A6, the "ocho" - Sold
''17 Q7

SEStone: Posts: 430; Joined: Wed Feb 27, 2013 9:45 pm; Location: Redmond, WA; Contact:
Contact SEStone

Website

Re: Jim Green's 90 20vt - 506whp

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Post by SEStone » Sun Feb 13, 2011 12:45 pm

The LMs are light for what they are, not quite as light as the RPF1s, but they're very very strong wheels if you get the real thing. The replicas are hit or miss, most of them don't look exactly like the real ones either.

Sam

Sam Stone

PRA4WX: Posts: 589; Joined: Sun Mar 03, 2013 2:10 pm

Re: Jim Green's 90 20vt - 506whp

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Post by PRA4WX » Sun Feb 13, 2011 12:52 pm

BBS GT2's for me please!!

Jim, what wheels are those? How wide is the wheel?

Frank the quattro tank

Re: Jim Green's 90 20vt - 506whp

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Post by Frank the quattro tank » Sun Feb 13, 2011 1:44 pm

audifreakjim wrote:Nate, excellent point. I will probably drill and tap the second hole on this strut bar and call it good
I am pretty sure I am finished working today. The 17x9.5 rpf1's just arrived so I have some test fitting to do:)

They're made by Enkei.

jcarrick

Re: Jim Green's 90 20vt - 506whp

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Post by jcarrick » Sun Feb 13, 2011 2:12 pm

RPF1's are my absolute favorite wheels. Looking good!

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