Jim Green's 90q 20vt - 636whp 07k

[Hank]

Make sure you throw in those subframe offset bushings too before you throw an alignment on that banana. Gaining caster by pushing the strut tops back via the GC units is nice, but it throws the tire into the wheel well worse than it was before. By sliding the subframe forward that 15mm, you can throw the tops back 15mm and end up with about hte same tire placement. This will be key in running 275s in the future, thats for sure.

[waxcoupe]

man ur car is going to look veryy clean with those fenders!

[audifreakjim]

Make sure you throw in those subframe offset bushings too before you throw an alignment on that banana. Gaining caster by pushing the strut tops back via the GC units is nice, but it throws the tire into the wheel well worse than it was before. By sliding the subframe forward that 15mm, you can throw the tops back 15mm and end up with about hte same tire placement. This will be key in running 275s in the future, thats for sure.

Yep, I am going to flip the knuckles side to side as well.

[audifreakjim]

The camber plates are coming along nicely, I have the boxes made and everything tacked into place. The superbowl got into the way of the sawzall. After I trim out the old towers, everything is ready to be welded in!

[quattro87]

Nice Jim. Those strut towers look familiar!! I had to run out to the garage to make sure mine were still on the project car being that you spent some wrench time in there. LOL Is everything on the hood going to clear? I ended up about an inch lower than what you have yours set at. If they will fit the extra travel would be nice, but I didn't want to cut up the hood so that the strut nuts would clear.

[Hank]

I was wondering if those had got there or not Jim. They look good. Looks like plenty of caster will be had.

[HT Motorsport]

Looking good Jim

How far back did you set the Cl vs the stock CL?

They do look high, As John asked, does your hood clear? ON the S4K I had to clearance the inside of the hood completely to clear mine.

H

[Hank]

I did too on the URQ, but Jim told me that the b3 has a ton more room under the hood.. I still would get ahold of some 4" hemispheres and put them on the hood if I had it again.. It would be nice to get another couple of inches of travel.

[HT Motorsport]

a couple of extra inches cant hurt

[Hank]

Oh, and Jim, make sure you include provisions for a strut tower brace while you have the welder out, and especially before you paint.

[audifreakjim]

I can fit my deep 13mm socket over the top of the mance mount strut nut in the stock position and still shut the hood without it hitting. When I add caster and move the shock back, I will probably have to drill a hole in the hood bracing, but I know it will clear the outer skin. I estimated about 40mm between the tip of the koni and the hood. In the new position, the strut will be 36mm higher than normal.

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Hank, good call on the strut bar. Waterjet me something cool looking

On a side note, any one ever seen 1.5 lbs of silly putty? This is actually from a 10lb order

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Top

[PRA4WX]

HA! That's riotous!
Get sawzall goin yet er what?! ;-)

[quattro87]

Here is mine on His Urq




This is a poor shot of the clearance between the GC plate nuts and the hoods bracing. Notice that with the tower pushed back against the firewall like you have done the tower is very close to the hood bracing. I guess if you cut it up nobody will see it and, like Haydn says extra travel would always be nice.

[Mcstiff]

Looking good! I guess its >19ºF in your garage

[audifreakjim]

John, your project inspired me to dive in and do this.

Ed, you don't want to know how nice it was here today. I worked on the car in shorts, and just finished up watching the football from the pool.

[Mcstiff]

I managed to get my garage up to about 40º and got the T3/T4 in (funny how just changing the compressor makes things not line up).

Up until a few weeks ago it was unseasonably warm in Denver so I'm happy to have winter (just not every day).

[quattro87]

John, your project inspired me to dive in and do this.

That inspiration is second hand from Haydn along with his design and CAD program that we massaged for our liking. Thanks again Haydn.

[HT Motorsport]

John, your project inspired me to dive in and do this.

That inspiration is second hand from Haydn along with his design and CAD program that we massaged for our liking. Thanks again Haydn.

My pleasure here's some more inspiration for you all to break out the sawzall!



FYI I learned a lot developing this strut top and have a new version in mind that will give a lot more adjustment.

[Hank]

Yes, thanks Haydn. I have the modified DWGs that I can send over, or a parasolid(x_t) that I will mail over. You can tinker with them as well to your liking.

Edit: Yum. I like how you tied the struts together behind the firewall. I like that a lot. I am going to make a push to get everything I can behind the firewall, from coolant, to breathers, coils, and catchcans.

[a_CQ]

Great work, Jimmy!

Here's a simpler and lighter solution...



Piece of steel bent into the shape of the camber plate, welded on, and 4 couplers/nuts welded inside for CP to bolt to. CP goes on top so you get extra room without building tall base. It's held up just fine. Unfortunately I can't take credit for it but the shop that did it for me. $100 for labor per side without the plates.

[Hank]

Those plates are not recommended to be used on top like that Peter. They have held up fine obviously, but they had failures on the twice as thick plates that I run... Those smaller, unlabeled plates are suppose to be run under the box like Hadyn, my Dads, and Jimmy's.

[HT Motorsport]

Great work, Jimmy!

Here's a simpler and lighter solution...



Piece of steel bent into the shape of the camber plate, welded on, and 4 couplers/nuts welded inside for CP to bolt to. CP goes on top so you get extra room without building tall base. It's held up just fine. Unfortunately I can't take credit for it but the shop that did it for me. $100 for labor per side without the plates.

Hey Peter,

Certainly lighter but less adjustment.The big problem I see with your setup is that all the suspension forces are being held by the 4 bolts in tension. the camber plates should be mounted on the underside of a heavy plate so they are in compression and are hence fail safe.

Just my 2c.

[HT Motorsport]

Great work, Jimmy!

Here's a simpler and lighter solution...



Piece of steel bent into the shape of the camber plate, welded on, and 4 couplers/nuts welded inside for CP to bolt to. CP goes on top so you get extra room without building tall base. It's held up just fine. Unfortunately I can't take credit for it but the shop that did it for me. $100 for labor per side without the plates.

Hey Peter,

Certainly lighter but less adjustment.The big problem I see with your setup is that all the suspension forces are being held by the 4 bolts in tension. the camber plates should be mounted on the underside of a heavy plate so they are in compression and are hence fail safe.

Just my 2c.

ps. Whoever did the welding there, don't let them weld anything else

[123quattro]

Hank says I will get 50whp. We'll see :wink:

Retarding cam timing makes a big difference. I could feel mine pick up some on top end but I lost so much in the middle it wasn't worth it. 4 degrees on the cam made me have to go one gear lower to get the engine to spool at the same vehicle speed.

[85oceanic]

ps. Whoever did the welding there, don't let them weld anything else

:slap: