The Project Pad

Hey guys,

This seems to be a thriving place for i5 motors so thought I'd throw up a little thread.

Have been into VAG cars for a while, been through about 10 other jap rwd cars before getting VAG stuff (only 23 so about 2 a year), I haven't found a car i wanted to keep yet (until now).

Previously had 2 x B5's, had a Polo GTi and then sold that.. this urS4 popped up. It was love, wanted something older. Something with more a solid 'feel' to it. Something that made that sound we all yearn for

Got it for next to nothing, was actually going to buy a stg3 B5 S4 instead, but this way i can put 10+ into it and have much more fun. Only has 120K miles, Full books, the history of the car is well documented.

Stock as a rock currently except for some 2Bennett pars, needs new springs, all control arms, cv boots, bushes etc (thanks to Marc for sorting me out with most of the little stuff). Got some 17z brembos for a friend, they will go on soon

Have made an offer on a HTA35, I want to see 500hp on this one. Aim is rods, balance rotating assembly, 7A cams, some valves and springs. Slow and steady with this build since I have a few cars to drive on the side.

Not many pictures of it, I will endeavour to get some more.

Thanks guys ,

Jesse






Little bit low eh?





Going to repaint the seats, got this stuff after seeing a members thread on S2forum. Has to be done, seats are like new. Just waiting for some good weather..

Clean car! Welcome

I believe it was actually your car that inspired me to think about the HTA35

Thanks!

You might get a few PM's here and there asking about bits and bobs, hope you don't mind.

jaychen wrote:I believe it was actually your car that inspired me to think about the HTA35

Thanks!

You might get a few PM's here and there asking about bits and bobs, hope you don't mind.

So glad you an make it over here... and yes it is Ed's car that I linked you towards for inspiration on that other conversation...

Keep us posted...

Welcome to the pad buddy. car looks sweet, maybe raise it just a touch lol

mushasho wrote:

jaychen wrote:I believe it was actually your car that inspired me to think about the HTA35

Thanks!

You might get a few PM's here and there asking about bits and bobs, hope you don't mind.

So glad you an make it over here... and yes it is Ed's car that I linked you towards for inspiration on that other conversation...

Keep us posted...

Thanks buddy.

Will do,

I'm a sucker for go fast bits and being a student my budget wont allow me to build the motor just yet, talking with Marc currently about a billet k26.

Looks like I got the HTA35 too (snagged it for a bargain).

Will do Morris,

2B are being painful to deal with (even though i already have their products). I hit up EDIGREG to get the specs on how to make my own

Not a great update,

just after a bit of info.

Going to purchase a 7a flywheel to swap to single mass, the guys says that the pins have been removed from the clutch side and the other side.. is this a problem?

finally free'd up about 10k of hard earned i had sitting in two cars.

Going to place an order with Marc for a billet wheel while i really decide how far i want to take this car

Got my tint re-done, came out ok.

Good to have you here! Tint looks nice. My advice would be to do things once. If you don't have the cash now, wait and save up. You'll end up spending more time and money doing it twice.

i hear you buddy, but with what are you referring to?

i may not even build the motor, it all depends how i like the billet turbo setup.

to be honest, the car drives like an absolute bucket of shit right now, i hate driving it. so maybe that'll change when i get these coilovers sorted and install all the bushes and control arms i have on my bedroom floor.

thread has to have something interesting at least..

raced a friends k03 stage 2 mkv gti.. dsg tune, apr tune, exhaust, fmic, blah blah blah.. second run is where it gets good

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RBYOmY0wGmo[/youtube]

Sorry yeah referring to the motor. If you're planning to go hta35 I'd just hold off, save, and do it all. But that's a big ticket build so you might be saving for a while. If you're not set on a big arse build then go for the b26 turbo and a 'midway' build. Just sounded to me like you were going to go hta35 but wanted a step in between.

Guys,

i dun goofed.

been smashing this fucker for about an hour with a cold chisel, tried multigrips, errthing...nothing worked

then a mate says that you need a hex tool for the top?




anybody got the partnumber for this so i can get these shit Koni's out once and for all?

Also, my current sleeves that mounted my old Koni's to my 2B camber plates wont work.





What do people running 2B camber plates with Bilsteins use on the top (coilover guys excluded)?
Do i just get a sleeve made up at a local machining shop that allows the same amount of thread to be gripped at top of the strut?

Annddddd finally, how the heck do i dismantle the inner cv joint? i need to replace the boot and i have removed the circlip at the end but it still won't budge.. sorry for the noob questions, first time for everything eh

just put a 35mm nut with another one, welded the fuckers together with a piece of tube and a 1/2'' socket on the end.

first problem solved..

now it's just the CV's and the sleeve for the 2B camber plate

Big ass pipe wrench + heat for the gland nut.

2B makes different sleeves for bilstein/koni so you'll have to get a new one or modify that one.

There is a snap ring on some of the CVs that you need to remove first. It's on the rear outers, not sure if it's on the inners as well.

I removed that outer snap ring, thing still wont budge..

Ok, fuck 2b. those guys are jerks (imo), hardest company to order any parts when you're overseas.

I'll get one made up locally.

Thanks buddy!

LOL @ 2B, they can be a pain when you walk in with cash!

Study this, way too much info.
http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/15184.phtml

Pull harder on that joint, it has been there a long time.

thanks man.

appreciate it.

home made tool didnt quite work on the gland nut.

borrowed a pair of HUGE stilsons so going to try and just heat it to shit, smash with a hammer a few times then try get it off.

I had looked at the FAQ section of the urs4/6 forum.

I thought maybe i had missed it, but no threads specifically tell you how to separate the cv (unless im blind).

Below is the only thread that has CV Joint in the name..
http://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/24331.phtml

Do i just smash this bit (the black bit) upwards like i have illustrated.. i've removed the cir clip/snap ring off the top. I gave it some hefty blows before with a hammer but it wasn't budging and i didnt want to break something. more heat needed?

I wrote a guide... it should be in the faq. Don't smash it, you'll break it as there's a circlip in there

Oh just read the start of your post. Well I dunno then. Use heat to expand and remove the yolk

Found it in the post:

"This is the appropriate time to use a small impact driver. Thread the axle bolt into the splined hub shaft and it'll easily come off. You don't have to use a impact driver, just makes it easier."

Its the inner cv joint..

You can't put the spline bolt through there?!

I'm going down to a ahop this arvo, I'll see if he can help me.

He's making me some new sleeves so the bilsteins fit the 2b plates

ya, you want to leave the whole joint together to use the bolt trick, and it will come off as one piece.

The hidden clip is on the rear outers. I'm not sure if there is anything on the inners.

I dont think you guys quite understood what I meant.

This is the front inner cv joint. The bolt goes through the outer, I had to press the fucker off.


Just making sure there is no gasket for the outside of the joint, only the inner like I have it?!



This side just mounts metal to metal hey?