The Project Pad

Motorgeek thread
http://www.motorgeek.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=35498&hilit=ken%27s+urq


So I dont know how to import my project thread from MG so Ill just start fresh here.


Been slowly working on the car, runs reliably, took it for a drive around the block without the fenders, hood, bumper, grill but it was a good feeling to finally be able to drive it.

Just finished fabbing up the exhaust, all thats left is to add the hangers and cut the tail pipe down. I am fairly happy how it turned out and my tig welding is getting much better.

And sorry in advance for the grainy pictures :p















Also got the swaybars in. I moved the 26mm bar to the rear and put in a FWD 22mm in the front. Ended up just fabbing my own mounts to work with the energy suspension bushings that I bought.








Also rebuilt the driveshaft(hanger and u joint), if I were to do it again I would be using the BMW hanger bearing because the one I purchased from 034 looks like a piece of garbage.




Boxster calipers were rebuilt and mounted with the apikol 300mm rotors to fit under the ronal 8s.







And lastly made a gauge pod for my oil pressure, oil temp, and boost gauge. Its a bit ghetto because I chopped an s4 cluster and made a housing.











This is how she sits now








So the list of things is starting to get down to fixing all of the little problems and getting the interior completely back together, the one last thing that I do not know how to do is getting the tach to work with motronic. Originally I just hooked the tach up to the motronic output and the tach seemed to work up to 2000 rpm and then it would cut out. I then bought a converter that I thought would work but it doesnt seem to be the correct converter. Can anyone please point me in the correct direction?

THis makes me happy. Any Port Rose car is welcome! What tach are you using?

Tee in a 2k resistor to ground and the tach will work perfectly BTDT

Great project by the way.

Cheers,

Craig

highlander69 wrote:Tee in a 2k resistor to ground and the tach will work perfectly BTDT

Great project by the way.

Cheers,

Craig

Tee it in where? on the motronic output?


and thanks for the quick response!



Using the stock cluster/tach @ Hank.

Yes,

Hook Motronic output to tach, and then tee off a 2k resistor to ground

Thanks! Ill give it a try as soon as I can get a resistor.

awesome... looks great, welcome to the dark side

Looks like a clean car.

It certainly has its bright points but it isnt as clean as it looks. The paint is garbage(bubbling off rear bumper and cracking on the quarter we didnt paint) and there is a bunch of rust below the spare tire and on the other side in the same location(the little humps). What were those for anyway?

Eventually going to repaint the rest of the car but it really needs a full body restoration.

So with the summer comes the our busy time but ive started hanging the fenders to straighten them out before paint and started doing the final mount of the euro lights.

Can anyone help me with mounting the trim for the eurolights? The upper trim fits perfectly but the bottom isnt even close. The only thing i can figure is chopping the bottom corner of the fender(the light bezel mount) and making my own mount for the bottom hockey stick.

Those are flat euro lights and you have slant light trim.

didnt even think of that.... duh.

thanks

So its been a long time since I have updated this, car has been together for a few years now. Engine has 10-15k on it and is running strong, ran into a few minor problems but overall the car has been good to me.

My rear swaybar setup ripped the tierod mounts off the subframe so I rewelded and reinforced them and it has been happy as a clam for about a year now. I also had an overboost/fuel cut problem when I went above 3/4 throttle at a low RPM and finally figured it out. This car has the ECU and wastegate spring out of my s6(mtm stage 1) and the spring was cut at one point. I dont know if that is how it was supplied but I never had a problem with the s6 so I didnt think anything of it. Apparently because of the spring loading one side of the piston shaft it was actually rubbing on the guide and had developed burs and was sticking. Changed out the spring to a stock spring and I had another wastegate lower half and piston which solved the problem.


I was also able to get my hands on a new in box dash so I will be pulling the dash which will allow me to clean up some of my wiring and Ill probably end up pulling the carpets to clean and redye them. Along with the dash I found a new windshield and installed it(original windshield had a fairly massive crack).


This year I plan on nabbing a short shift kit and modifying the shifter to accept a bearing like Jim did on the vomit comet(http://www.theprojectpad.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=73&start=2950#p83238). I replaced the ball socket with the 034 replacement but there is slop in it from having to pull the shifter out a couple times.

Also going to modify my PCV a bit, currently just have a line coming from the valve cover and a line from the block going to a catch can and the only vac source I have is on the MAF boot(not optimal but havent noticed any real problems so far). I am planning on redoing it so I have vac from the intake manifold as well and tying it into the evap system, currently just have the gas tank vented to atmosphere.


Lastly I want to refresh the suspension. I am going to do a coilover conversion and use the compbrake top mounts(http://www.compbrake.com/product/audi-ur-quattro-front-fixed-each/) but just wondering what it entails to go with two piece struts. I understand the uprights come from a 5 cyl 80 or 90 but does this require different balljoints/control arms/hubs/axels? Also do the two piece struts use a smaller diameter shock? I know the URQ is the 50mm diameter and I believe all other small chassis came with smaller diameter shocks. And last my car has Boxster S calipers with the apikol caliper adapters, will this setup change my rotor offset interfering with my current brake setup?

Is this conversion worth it? I would be doing it purely for the fact it makes the suspension easier to work on/pull. From what I see it does nothing for the actual geometry.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Also just want to say thanks to everyone that has helped me over the years, would have never gotten to this point if it werent for you guys.

I'm putting S2/90 suspension in my URQ. I actually purchased KW coilovers last week. and i'm going to but using them along with the knuckles from a CQ. I will '5-lug' them using the same parts I do when I do it to 90s and coupes.

you will use the newer CQ ball joints with it. which is a sort of benefit considering the unavailability of a lot of classic URQ parts. its more about updating things, than the ease of changing them. (at least for me)

I'm curious if you have any more documentation about using the AAN harness in your car. Have any notes or pics?

I dont have a lot of notes on the harness but I dont think there is anything too tricky about it. The AAN wiring diagram and URQ wiring diagram is just about all you need to get the engine running in the car. From what I remember the only thing that needs to be connected to the chassis wiring is the tach, fuel pump, and after run pump if you want to even install that.

If you have any questions Ill help as much as I can.


As far as the suspension goes, what hubs do you use to get back to 5 lug? Also what wheel bearings fit those knuckles and accept the urq axles? I wish I had a pick and pull around me that had ANY old audi's in it lol. I would just go pull a bunch of struts and figure it out myself. I have spent a lot of time looking around for this information but it is so scattered that it makes it hard to make any sense of it.

I have the feeling I am going to stick with the stock uprights just because of the fact I dont want to have to buy another set of caliper adapters if they change the caliper mounting position or rotor offset. On the other hand the two piece struts look so much better haha.

I'm using the entire CQ running gear basically.

i'm using a v6 front subframe with 01e 6 Speed
B3 rear subframe
KW coilover uprights with CQ knuckles
Machined URS4 front hubs
B5 A4 rear hubs
CQ axles
CQ rear diff
URQ Driveshaft
CQ forged Control Arms

Im going the b4 front end 2 piece coilover route

So far I have the following
2 piece uprights from 1994 fwd 90 b4 (82mm housings)
Forged control arms to go with the uprights
b5 a4 calipers and rotors (Girling g57)


What i am working on figuring out is
-What hubs to use. I am pulling some d2 a8 hubs this weekend as im told those with work with minimal machining, but then I have to use b5 a4 axles.
-My urq, 4kq, 5ktq hubs (all used as demo pieces) do not have a long enough "shaft" and would require me putting spacers behind the wheel bearing. I do not want to do that route.

Once I have it all figured out, itll be on my site [url]b2resource.com[/url] in good detail

Also, port rose ftw!! car looks great!

Thanks for the info guys, I guess my last question to answer is if the stock carriers/calipers and rotors fit on the b3/b4 uprights.

you could use the stock b4 g60s, or you can use any of the upgrades that the small chassis guys use. I'm using 996 calipers with a8 rotors.

The stock (I believe g54 right?) will bolt up

depending what you use for hubs is where it gets tricky. Once I have mine done I will be able to text g60, g54 and g57 setups

Dave wrote:you could use the stock b4 g60s, or you can use any of the upgrades that the small chassis guys use. I'm using 996 calipers with a8 rotors.

I already have boxster S calipers and Apikol adapters on the car and I don't want to have new adapters made if the hub offset is a little different.

Thats where having the right hubs is essential

The caliper mounts are the same, and with the right hub (once i get it and figure it out i will post about it) it should all line up

I dont have any intention of running anything other than stock spacing and offset

Ill keep an eye on your page, Ive already read through all of it

Anything you find, please let me know.

I plan on putting together a seperate page of hub info, coilover info, upright info, 5 lug 4kq/cgt swap info, urq brake info, etc