The Project Pad

Specifically, Wiring up a vehicle.
I've been on this site checking out wire.
http://www.awcwire.com/producttoc.aspx? ... tery-cable
and watched this cheesy little video explaining some differences.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ey3YsGZ ... qfrcv0y94M

Question is: Where to use which type. I've noticed many of the Factory wires in newer Audi's use thinner insulation so I'm wondering if they are using TXL.
In the past I"ve always just used whatever I can get locally but in the next year I'll be doing a lot of wiring and want to get set up to do it properly. I used to use a lot of Marine wire since the wire is tinned but the sheathing isn't good for engine compartments "PVC insulation instead of Cross Linked" or so my understanding is.

I'm ordering these crimpers mostly because Mark Swanson said thats what he uses.
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores ... _304928_-1

First project is to build a couple AAN to 2.0t Coil Conversion Wiring Harnesses. After that will be some small projects and finally wiring up an entire car "Brake lights, headlights, ecu, heater fan, gauges, etc.

So, what do people like to use where.
* Where do you like GXL
* Where do you like SXL
* Where do you like TXL

Does anyone use Mil Spec wiring? If so, what type, where do you get it, are you happy with it. And isn't a lot of Mil Spec solid core? I could be wrong on that.



I

I use TXL for most engine bay stuff.

Mil spec (tefzel) is better, but you pay for it dearly. I use it for wiring that needs to run inside the fuel tank.

I used 1/0 SGX for my battery relocation in my CGT.
Used 4AWG SGT for the relay harness I built for my euro H1/H4 headlights.
I believe I bought both from Ebay as I found they had the best price.

IIRC I have been building the additions to my 'starter' ECU harness out of MIL wiring that I got from AircraftSpruce (http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/el/wire.html) It's been a while since I worked on that project though and I haven't actually run an engine on it yet.

Some notes on various SGX sources I found:

25' Red 1/0 SGX = $130
http://www.advancemcs.com/?contentID=45&cartItemID=1
$110
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-0-AWG-0-GA-GA ... 0452229701
$150
http://www.ceautoelectricsupply.com/batterycable.html

$2.188/ft, 100' minimum
http://www.waytekwire.com/item/WZ0-2/1- ... GE61AK10S5

$100/25' black
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-0-0-gauge-SGX ... f5&vxp=mtr

$97/25' red
http://www.ebay.com/itm/25-FT-1-0-ga-GA ... 2b&vxp=mtr

For criming large terminals for batteries I almost bought the hydraulic crimper from Harbor Freight. I decided to save some money and by a 'hammer' crimper which worked great: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006I2 ... detailpage

For my battery relocation I also used a Blue Sea Systems marine breaker.

I'll post a little more when I have more time...

For ignition coils, I'm assuming 18ga is fine. Each coil can draw up to 20-amps according to BERU's site, (Spec is 6-20 amps) Nice PDF training booklet I found online:
http://beru.federalmogul.com/sites/defa ... wres_0.pdf

But that current is not constant. (Edit:Maybe it is constant, then does it vary with RPM /Duty cycle") 20 amps is fine for a short length so I'm assuming thats fine. I know some of the high output coils for distributor based systems require 16ga or thicker depending on the length but they are firing much more often.

zarati wrote:For ignition coils, I'm assuming 18ga is fine. Each coil can draw up to 20-amps according to BERU's site, (Spec is 6-20 amps) Nice PDF training booklet I found online:
http://beru.federalmogul.com/sites/defa ... wres_0.pdf

But that current is not constant. (Edit:Maybe it is constant, then does it vary with RPM /Duty cycle") 20 amps is fine for a short length so I'm assuming thats fine. I know some of the high output coils for distributor based systems require 16ga or thicker depending on the length but they are firing much more often.

I use 18 gauge for all the individual wires to the coils. I then group into 12 gauge for the common high current ground. the ttl ground can stay 18 gauge even when grouped.

no way do the coils draw 20 amps each unless you dead short them. Build your circuit assuming just under 5 amps continuous each. eg a 25 amp group fuse for all 5 coils is fine.

I use these crimpers for general use, the open barrel jaws I have work well but I wish had more sizes. My favorite part about them is they're super consistent.

I've been using GXL in the engine bay, once I run out though I'll probably use TXL. The thicker insulation is nice for some applications, but I think if you loom everything properly and secure the harness it just adds more bulk.

I've also been using techflex for loom which is nice but let's dirt and whatnot into the harness. Ideally I'd use raychem heat shrink but that gets expensive fast. I figure techflex is better than TESA tape or split nylon tubing. Only thing about it is the ends can pop out of your heat shrink. I've been wrapping my ends in 3m friction tape before heat shrinking. Good adhesive lined heat shrink may do the trick as well, but I vaguely remember someone telling me they had problems with it.

This site has some cool info, the materials they recommend are pretty much all out of most people's budgets, I priced out what I'd need for my AAN swap harness and it was around a grand just for materials to build the harness...
https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/wiring_ecu.html


One thing I need to find is a good source for open barrel contacts, including the JPT oem style contacts. Mauser seems good but there are a daunting number of options, takes a while to match up what you need.

Oh yeah, I also have a little "mini heat gun" and it's just about the best thing for wiring work. Easy to use under the dash but won't generally set things on fire or melt insulation...