The Project Pad

So I finally got the URq throttle cable I'd ordered from Audi Tradition months ago for my 20vt 4000. Threw it on a week or so ago, got my ecu back from upgrading(ms1->ms2)last week and have come to an issue. Long story short, the end of the cable hits the fuel rail and holds the throttle open a little. I re calibrated the TPS when I got the ECU back without out the cable on it. Got the car to idle and whatnot on MS2 with no throttle cable and now I'm ready to tackle this issue. With my calibration, I'm reading 15% open with the throttle on the cable as a stop VS it actually stopping on the throttle stop. So my question, should I just stop and fix it or is this something I can tune around? Say, run the idle screw in all the way(ish)? I'm not currently running an IAC either. Thanks!!

If you have a consistent stop for the throttle, you can definitely just calibrate that to be your 0 percent tps reading. It shouldn't cause a problem as long as it'll idle where you want it with the throttle that far open.

Glad to hear! I don't think readings would vary much if that ended up being the stop. There's nothing really to compress and change the reading. I figured it best to ask others who are smarter than I lol. I'll crank the idle screw in tomorrow and see where I'm at with the idle. Thanks a bunch!

It might be all of the above. You will probably need to shave the cable rivet and cam, push the fuel rail down and shave the fuel rail. If you can get a mm or two out of each one you might get the idle to where it should be

audifreakjim wrote:It might be all of the above. You will probably need to shave the cable rivet and cam, push the fuel rail down and shave the fuel rail. If you can get a mm or two out of each one you might get the idle to where it should be

I agree 100%. Do it right! The cable end was never meant to be a throttle stop, and you're likely to have tuning headaches from the "idle position" of the throttle wandering if you keep it this way.

Damn you and your reason Eric..... Lol

Just drill a small hole for clearance in the fuel rail, shouldn't be a biggie

That sucks, looks like you need to massage a bit of everything to get the room you need.

ringbearer wrote:Just drill a small hole for clearance in the fuel rail, shouldn't be a biggie

That sucks, looks like you need to massage a bit of everything to get the room you need.

Now there's an idea!

I'm thinking shaving everything is going to be my only option. Sucks, I was hoping with this throttle cable to keep everything nice and clean. Not excited about chewing up the fuel rail and throttle cam, being as its up front in plain view. So it goes!

What you need is a set of low profile injectors from a Volvo like I have. They lower the rail considerably, and as an added bonus they are an extended tip injector, so it puts it closer to the CIS injector tip location.

DE80q wrote:What you need is a set of low profile injectors from a Volvo like I have. They lower the rail considerably, and as an added bonus they are an extended tip injector, so it puts it closer to the CIS injector tip location.

Can you post a pic? I'm fairly certain these are what I have in there now.

The newer ev14 injectors are great for that too. Nice and short and have the extended tip.

Here is the pic of mine.


They are from a Volvo 1.9L turbo engine.

isnt the throttle cam on a spline? Cant you just rotate it one notch and make up for the extra slack with the rubber gromit/clip action?
I would NOT be happy using that cable end and fuel rail as a throttle stop, but maybe thats just me.

No, it's notched so it only goes on 2 ways(180*.) I ended up shaving the cam a bunch and a hair off the cable end to get it to fit right. 0-100% now with the pedal. Thanks guys!

Great! As long at you can get WOT you should be set

DE80q wrote:Here is the pic of mine.


They are from a Volvo 1.9L turbo engine.

What size are they?

I bought five (well, six) some years ago for my Quantum and I kinda forgot.

Also, I now own a 1.9 Volvo and I'm curious as to how much injector headroom there is. I think I am making about 180-190hp right now. (13psi tapering to 10psi... stock is 7, I think, mine was making about 4 before I put a MBC in it)

They are 440cc @ 3bar

Nice... so basically S4 N/A RX-7 with slightly different dimensions. Good to know!

The funny thing is looks like the only flashtunes for the car give it "14psi and 200hp"... coincidentally enough the T4-spec engine from Europe also was 14psi and 200hp... and it had 81mm bores and 8.5:1 compression instead of the T3-spec 83mm bores and 9:1 compression. And from what I have seen, running hard with one of these flashtunes leads to cracked cylinder liners.... HMMM.

Volvo was kind enough to map the T3's computer out to 15psi and doesn't set a trouble code for overboost until 15psi so I figure a $90 MBC is better than a $700 reflash that blows your engine because it's made for something with lower compression and smaller more detonation-resistant bore diameter...

Part of me wants SO BADLY to put Zener diodes on the MAP sensors and start playing with methanol injection and higher boost.