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Posted: Wed Jun 09, 2010 9:04 pm
by quattro87
Not bad for a WX motor!!

Posted: Wed Jun 09, 2010 9:10 pm
by Toxcheap
awesome vid luv it

Posted: Wed Jun 09, 2010 9:14 pm
by Hank
ShavedQuattro wrote:Different Power steering pump solved the hard steer problem..having a silky smooth quick rack ratio is nice.. I think my wife could actually drive it if needs be..


Edit, My wife actually rode in the car yesterday to Cold Stone, and she told me to turn off the exhaust beacuse it was hurting her ears. Granted, she did have an ear operation as a young girl, and digs nails into my arm if I roll down the window on the freeway for whatever reason. I am pretty sure I would have still been sleeping on the couch if i would have drove down to Fremont in that car...

Car is getting pretty sorted. I finally completed some of the remaining electrical swaps to the new dash, like windows, cigarette lighter, and the remaining gauges.

In those vids, the rear diff does not seem to be staying locked. I need to look into that.

Also, in a log, I noticed that my 1000cc injectors were seeing a peak of 91% Duty Cycle at only 250kpa and a .71Lambda WOT. I had a base rail pressure of only 50 psi, so I upped it to 56psi, tuned for .74 lambda, and now am only seeing .67 on them. I will up the boost to 27 soon and see how she handles it. All this talk of intercoolers has me wanting to make something up to cope with the hot summer days, and sustained boost runs. I think my core is not flowing hta35r levels.. It feels like i hit a brick wall around 24psi.

I also want to put a rear sway on again... or perhaps put sways on both front and rear. I am missing the hardward for the front bar, so if anybody has some laying around, let me know.

Posted: Wed Jun 09, 2010 11:15 pm
by loxxrider
What core do you have again? Have you considered meth injection? Vert. flow IC and meth would be a nice combo.

I've installed meth on a car and I have to say I no likie. Its too prone to failure in too many ways. Something sketchy about it so I dunno.

What injectors?

Nice vid btw :) Keep making them, looks like you are having a lot of fun

Posted: Thu Jun 10, 2010 12:02 am
by zarati
Which Swaybar setup do you need. I've got plenty of Hardware for 84+. Not sure if I have 83' laying around but I may.

Love the vids. Great work!

Posted: Thu Jun 10, 2010 5:16 am
by Hank
loxxrider wrote:What core do you have again? Have you considered meth injection? Vert. flow IC and meth would be a nice combo.

I've installed meth on a car and I have to say I no likie. Its too prone to failure in too many ways. Something sketchy about it so I dunno.

What injectors?

Nice vid btw :) Keep making them, looks like you are having a lot of fun


I Have actually. My s6 came with an aquamist system that I promptly ripped out and put back to stock. I will probably just do water injection. I dont need the octane with e85 constantly, just the cooling effect. Now hte heat capacity of meth is much higher when compared to regular water, but I would prefer to not have to tune for it, always have to source it, and have a 5 liter plenum filled with a meth mix in a time of back fire. I really want to get a high frequency valve to run it off an injector PW..

These injectors are rc1000cc

Posted: Thu Jun 10, 2010 5:18 am
by Hank
zarati wrote:Which Swaybar setup do you need. I've got plenty of Hardware for 84+. Not sure if I have 83' laying around but I may.

Love the vids. Great work!


I need both all 4 brackets for the front. I can source the rubber from 034, but the brackets are a bit of a pain to fabricate. Basicall yI need the 2 outers that bolt to the control arms, and the 2 that attach to the subframe. in the rear, the only thing I am lacking is on that attaches to the subframe.

I took the bars off a few years ago before a drag night, and they have been off ever since. It took all kinds of self restraint to not steal them from my dads mars car when it was parked in front of the shop for months ;)

Posted: Thu Jun 10, 2010 6:49 am
by quattro87
What is the winky guy for? I know that you are serious. I probably ought to take a closer look at Her car for parts missing. It might just start and run if I could find the missing pieces. :-D Eid you forget to let me take my IIc home or were you just funnin me talking about it being out of your car now. :wink:

In all seriousness guys, I got the chance to take the white beast for a little drive just to stoke up the ambition in me for my project. :woowoo: :woowoo: I gotta say that when it finely is making full boost at ~4500 it flat scoots and for the short little outing that I ran I banged the rev limiter at least once that I remember. In the lower gears it hits so hard that the revs are at the 8k limit before my lips had a chance to fully turn upwards in a smile from the pull. It really is a sweet motor that sure seems smooth. I liked the quicker steering and the tighter suspension also. Although you still know that you are in a 30yr old car it is pretty tight and a kick to drive. Even though it is pretty high strung, it really isn't to bad of a daily driver. Thanks for the drive and putting your mom and I up for the weekend.

Posted: Thu Jun 10, 2010 10:44 am
by zarati
I think thats Awesome that you are both on here and both have urq's.
We need a "Family Photo" of all three of yo with the three urq's!

Hank, as for the parts, I'll dig around and see what I can find. I gotta peak at my 83' to recall what they look like. The think the inners are the same as newer cars and just the outers are different where it hooks into the CA. I guess if worse came to worse, I could just pull the crap off the Black 83' and throw the newer bar on there now. ;-)

Posted: Thu Jun 10, 2010 11:18 am
by Hank
zarati wrote:I think thats Awesome that you are both on here and both have urq's.
We need a "Family Photo" of all three of yo with the three urq's!

Hank, as for the parts, I'll dig around and see what I can find. I gotta peak at my 83' to recall what they look like. The think the inners are the same as newer cars and just the outers are different where it hooks into the CA. I guess if worse came to worse, I could just pull the crap off the Black 83' and throw the newer bar on there now. ;-)


We will get some tasty pictures at URQ-Vegas if my dad can get his butt in gear!! It is fun having a few of these rare birds in the family.

Yeah, Dig around! I like that idea. You should probably just swap in newer suspension in the URQ and handmedown the old stuff :) I REALLy like that idea

Posted: Thu Jun 10, 2010 11:24 am
by Hank
quattro87 wrote:What is the winky guy for? I know that you are serious. I probably ought to take a closer look at Her car for parts missing. It might just start and run if I could find the missing pieces. :-D Eid you forget to let me take my IIc home or were you just funnin me talking about it being out of your car now. :wink:

In all seriousness guys, I got the chance to take the white beast for a little drive just to stoke up the ambition in me for my project. :woowoo: :woowoo: I gotta say that when it finely is making full boost at ~4500 it flat scoots and for the short little outing that I ran I banged the rev limiter at least once that I remember. In the lower gears it hits so hard that the revs are at the 8k limit before my lips had a chance to fully turn upwards in a smile from the pull. It really is a sweet motor that sure seems smooth. I liked the quicker steering and the tighter suspension also. Although you still know that you are in a 30yr old car it is pretty tight and a kick to drive. Even though it is pretty high strung, it really isn't to bad of a daily driver. Thanks for the drive and putting your mom and I up for the weekend.


Honest to everything, I did not insomuch take a screw from your red car. Boy was I tempted. I really want the trunk carpet on the underside of the trunk lid. Kindof silly, but i wish I had it.

Your IIc is sitting pretty at the shop. Come up and play again, and it is all yours.

One note on your test drive Dad, the rev limiter was set at 7600 I found out. I do not remember setting it there, but I probably did it back when I was breaking in the wx block. Anyway, it is back at 8300 and that extra 700 rpm makes a big difference. I have only hit it a couple of times. It gives you just enough time to make a shift happen. Hopefully with the .82AR housing, it will drop spool to around 4100 and then It will be less peaky, with a fat 4500rpm powerband.

I shrouded in the air filter to try and calm the spiking IAT's. It helped a bunch. I want to put some water injection on this guy and see if I can turn it up to what it wants to run.

Posted: Thu Jun 10, 2010 11:25 am
by zarati
If I can find the old Bar laying around do you want it too? It would be a FAT bar for the rear, probably to fat but.... I could bring it to Urq-Vegas if I can find it.

Ok, off to the Storage shed. I got a few things I need to look for.

Posted: Thu Jun 10, 2010 11:39 am
by Hank
I got both bars, I just lack the clamps. It would be interesting to see what the car felt like with two fronts on it. Hmmm...

So you are coming to URQ-vegas in the URQ or the CQ? Can't wait to meet you in the flesh Todd

Posted: Thu Jun 10, 2010 12:59 pm
by zarati
Sadly the CQ. I need about $1,500 minimum to finish a car and I just dont have it right now. But... I am planning to come. Planning on doing a few days in the Grand Canyon before the event too. I pondered just tossing the AAN in the White 83' and driving it down, but I still would need to wire the entire car as I'm wiring it from scratch. ANd I'd need about $800 in Gauges for the Dash. Its getting all custom gauges. Not sure on Autometer or VDO yet though. Havn't even decided on 2 1/8" or 2 5/8" gauges. And I REALLY want to get it on a Chassis Rotisserie and do some work on the Floorpan before I do everything else. That may happen this summer though. I've got a guy thats building one right now so we may throw it up there and weld up some frame rail reinforcements so I can paint the bottom and get it rolling again.

Posted: Sun Jun 20, 2010 10:11 am
by Hank
Let me hear what your advice is for my latest problem..

So I have a bit of a clutch issue.. .The clutch is a Southbend stage 5 full face disk. It is a sweet clutch, and holds power very nicely. It is a bit heavy, but it does hold the power unlike the Spec 3+

This last weekend, it started to shift very hard. It started to be very notchy. I pulled in onto the lift, and with it off the ground, and the clutch all the way engaged, the wheels would still spin. The same was true on the ground. It would lurch forward with it to the floor.

Dave donated a fairly new Slave to try out. It did not do a thing. I bled it very well, and it moved the point of engagement a half an inch off the floor. I took it for a test drive, and within a couple of miles, I lost that half inch, and it was back to being crappy shifting.

Back at the shop, I took the master off and threaded out it's adjustment to give it more length and effectivly give it more travel on the clutch MC. Again, off the bat, I had engagement an inch off hte floor, but a short drive soaked that up, and now I am back to no disengagement and notchy shifting.

I am thinking clutch MC? What are your thoughts?

Posted: Sun Jun 20, 2010 10:52 am
by Rocket SLC
Funny, as I am in the exact same boat you are in now. Cant select a gear while the motor is running. Clutch will not disengage. Wondering if maybe the SS pressure plate is to heavy, or is there really air in the system, or who knows. Off to the drawing board.

Posted: Sun Jun 20, 2010 12:33 pm
by Hank
The VR6 car Dan?

Posted: Sun Jun 20, 2010 12:58 pm
by Jonathan
Hank,

IME, a clutch MC exhibits different behavior when it fails, mainly that the clutch pedal will stick to the floor.

Have you considered the possibility of a bent fork? Adjust it and it works, but then it bends more and you're back to bad shifting.

Posted: Sun Jun 20, 2010 1:06 pm
by Hank
That has been my experience in the past with MC's as well. A few weeks ago, the pedal would not go to the floor, but it would not return all the way either. It would return about 3 inches shy of hte top.

THe bent fork has crossed my mind too. The SB clutch is pretty heavy, and it wouldnt surprise me. Either that or the MC has been slightly leaking for a while, and that is why it has seemed so heavy. People claim that the SB PP is amongst the least effort clutches out there.

Posted: Sun Jun 20, 2010 1:13 pm
by loxxrider
My old stg. III was relatively light compared to other clutches of its caliber

Posted: Sun Jun 20, 2010 3:19 pm
by SEStone
Hank, those are the symptoms we've seen when the Stg 5 material starts sticking to the friction surface on the flywheel. It doesn't fully 'weld', but there are high deposits basically melted to the friction surface that the surface of the disk cannot clear when disengaged, meaning that the input shaft continues to be driven with the clutch engaged. When you can get it in gear, those deposits are basically machining the disk. We've had three cars do this now. The first one we thought was due to hydraulics, we bled that system something like four times, and replaced the master and slave twice just to be sure.

Southbend claims this occurs when the car is 'overclutched', which I have a hard time wrapping my head around what exactly this means. We returned two of the clutches to them and they resurfaced the disk with their stage 2 or stage 3 material depending on the build of the car, the third one went Spec Stg3+.

Sam

Posted: Sun Jun 20, 2010 3:50 pm
by Hank
hmmmm... It is a Spec disk to add to the mystery.

Posted: Sun Jun 20, 2010 4:19 pm
by Audilard
Time for a Tilton. Maybe a group order? :wink:

Posted: Tue Jun 22, 2010 7:05 pm
by a_CQ
A few weeks ago, the pedal would not go to the floor, but it would not return all the way either. It would return about 3 inches shy of hte top.


Did you figure this out yet?

I can't see why would clutch pedal travel be affected if disk is failing? What you mention above is a typical slave/master failure symptom, at least I had it happen on the Coupe....first few times I ignored it, few times I had to manually lift the pedal back up....so the pedal was down, but clutch was still engaged...it's a good way to check it.

Finally it let go on the track. I'd throw in a new clutch master/slave($100) and see where it takes you.

Posted: Tue Jun 22, 2010 7:13 pm
by Hank
That helps Peter. Thanks. I did replace the slave, but the master needs to be changed before I drop the transmission. I think you are right on...

I will get to it. School is back in session, stealing my time, and I was tipped off to a sweet car in the yard that needed pillaged before it went to the crusher.

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It's all safe now from that awful press of death.. Huge thanks to Kelly for the tip off of the car.