The Project Pad

Yea I believe they're the same - thanks a ton please let me know! Having the car vibrate above 30mph is a buzz kill...

I can't imagine why they would be different. I pm'd you about mine. The carrier is nappy, but you could at least mark this one before you swap it if you'd like. Let me know if you want it

Toph wrote:I can't imagine why they would be different. I pm'd you about mine. The carrier is nappy, but you could at least mark this one before you swap it if you'd like. Let me know if you want it

im going to jay this weekend, and can bring it that far if it helps

You would drive right past me in Johnson! That would be awesome! I'm away this weekend though.... and live on a college campus. Guess you could leave it under my car outside, I'd just ask that you wrap the CV's up to keep them clean. Give me a call and we can figure this out! WIN!

Only if there are college girls that want to get drunk and make choices though...

There probably are some, but it's a different umm.... species out here in the sticks

HAHA yeah, we're probably about as rural here and I know what you mean. It'll be up to Tim since I'll be in the shop working on my CQ.

haha yea, you know what I'm talkin' bout.

So I have something else to try....

When I replaced my center bearing which was prompted by a light vibration above 30mph (regardless of load) I found the current bearing to be in great shape, almost as though it had been replaced before. I also noticed that the center bearing was spaced down from the car using a couple of nuts larger than the bolt to drop it about a 1/4". I wonder if the driveshaft was not properly aligned from the first job? I may reinstall the shaft and check the alignment. The u-joint looks and feels fine.

Would the alignment being off give me this sort of vibration? It's strongest from 30-40 and then tapers off. Again, regardless of load.

Hmm, this seems to support that.. Worth checking at least


http://www.motorgeek.com/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=50732

If the center carrier bearing has been replaced, I wonder if the shafts were marked and put back together in their balanced original setup? There probably wouldn't be any way to check or know this, but could be the problem.

Right and that was my original concern. I was going to try reclocking the two halves, but I can't find a way to separate the driveshaft again without destroying my new bearing. I have a line on another driveshaft, but I would hate to miss something simple like the alignment being off. Especially when I know it wasn't done by Audi.

You back the bolt out some and beat a chisel between the top of the bolt head and the other half of the propshaft.

glibobbo21 wrote:You back the bolt out some and beat a chisel between the top of the bolt head and the other half of the propshaft.

hammer, tap in chisel, back bolt out more, hammer in chisel, bolt out more, step by step itll back out

Toph wrote:Only if there are college girls that want to get drunk and make choices though...

bad choices specifically, ive been to jsc before
hydepark /mo-vegas party machine

Driveshaft alignment was definitely off and I was able to get the vibration to lessen quite a bit but its still there. More disturbing is the transmission.

Before I put the car away for the winter, I had nearly lost the use of 1st and 2nd gear. I thought it was because the clutch master and slave were shot and the clutch wasn't fully disengaging because of it. Now that I have rebuilt both, the pedal feels great but my 1-2 shift still isn't working. 3-4-5 are fine, it's just getting into 1st and then to 2nd. It's hit or miss if I can get it into gear and then it's a hell of a time getting it out of either gear. The synchro felt weak before the engine build and then one good quick 1-2 this past summer, the car just didn't make it into second. Instead it just got stuck at 1.5 and ground a ton of 2nd gear.

Is my transmission shot? 1-2 synchro bad? Do I need to find a transmission before Carlisle? Bleh..

Hopefully it's ok...but if not, at least you won't have to look far for a replacement.

Haha what don't you have? Ill mention too that the first 500 ft of driving was fine, but then the problem returned. Ill pull the drain plug and check the fluid level, but I don't know what else to check.

Also, if I put the car in neutral and let the clutch out, the car drops rpm and tries to move like its an auto trans.... What does that mean?

*Edit* I'm retarded, never mind.

right, but neutral should be neutral still...?

Disregard my previous post lol... Just worked a 15 hour say in the desert haha

No one is judging, Chris

That definitely explains any grinding you were experiencing, and may have caused further damage. I'd look into that clutch system of yours...

I would look into the shifter. I had similar problems with my V8Q manual swapped because one of my shifter rods was slipping.

Made some good progress last night! First, huge thanks to Tim and Toph for coming through with a trans and driveshaft in short order!

Then, it was out with the old driveshaft and in with the older


I noticed that the new old driveshaft is fully serviceable! Win!


Swapped center bearing and CV's since mine were in better shape



And then was able to get the old trans out


I noticed the throwout bearing looked rough... This must be the 'to-be-avoided' plastic version. I think the new trans has it too. Can anyone confirm?



Here's the one on the new trans

Thank goodness for good friends.

Hank wrote:Thank goodness for good friends.

TRUTH!