The Project Pad

Alright, well I finally fixed my leak (due to a t-bolt clamp that was bowed out under the bolt part :frustrated: ). I shouldn't have trusted my friend's ebay clamps.

Car finally hits target boost and rips like a bat out of hell in first gear. I haven't really put it through its paces yet...when I had the duty cycle on 50% and thus ~10psi the ECU shut off once. It didn't do that the entire time we were tuning the other day. Then I turned it up to 60% duty cycle and thus about 15 psi (right what I wanted), and it ran great. First gear feels better than ever. Now its just a matter of if its going to cut out again.

OK, so now I'm officially frustrated again today.

This ECU is freaking weird.

Took the car out again to verify the cutting out. It cuts out every time I get in boost hard. Here is the interesting part:

When the computer is hooked up to the ECU, the problem is that during boost the ECU will lose power and I have to cycle ignition to get it to come back on (and then I'm on my way again). This is verified in the logs I took. I have at least 3 or 4 instances of this recorded in various logs. Everything else in the tune looks great.

When the computer is DISCONNECTED instead of the ecu losing power it just misses and then goes on its way. It did this about 3 times in a third gear pull at one point. Of course, I can't record this in a log because the ECU was disconnected for this testing. Its as if it happens right when the ecu would lose power if the computer was hooked up.

For the second time today I need to use this sign :frustrated: :frustrated: :frustrated:

loxxrider wrote:OK, so now I'm officially frustrated again today.

This ECU is freaking weird.

Took the car out again to verify the cutting out. It cuts out every time I get in boost hard. Here is the interesting part:

When the computer is hooked up to the ECU, the problem is that during boost the ECU will lose power and I have to cycle ignition to get it to come back on (and then I'm on my way again). This is verified in the logs I took. I have at least 3 or 4 instances of this recorded in various logs. Everything else in the tune looks great.

When the computer is DISCONNECTED instead of the ecu losing power it just misses and then goes on its way. It did this about 3 times in a third gear pull at one point. Of course, I can't record this in a log because the ECU was disconnected for this testing. Its as if it happens right when the ecu would lose power if the computer was hooked up.

For the second time today I need to use this sign :frustrated: :frustrated: :frustrated:

Hm, where did you ground that ground strap to?

As an experiment, I'm going to have you try running your stock coil and distributor to see if the problem persists for you. Under the ignition config set all of the outputs to "stepper D" (disconnect your other coils and hook up the factory coil through the factory wiring harness, same as stock. Reduce static dwell to no more than 2.8ms in the ignition settings page.

contact me with questions if you aren't sure how to do the above.

Strap is grounded to an existing ground spot like 8 inches away from the ECU. Its right on the bare metal of the chassis.

Its definitely doing the same exact thing as before. Its funny because the ECU doesn't do it for a day or two if I dont use it for a while. Its almost like a relay or something is heating up.

I will do that first thing in the morning. If you say ~12psi is good to go then I'll give it a try. I'm going to try to put those settings in now (without connection to the car)

if the distributor based test results in no problems you have two possible choices on where to go next with this (assuming you still want to run coil per cylinder ,which I'm sure you probably do).

1) trade your current coil setup for "TTL" style coils which will get rid of the grounding problem entirely.

2) ship the ECU back to me so I can perform one additional modification. While I did add that ground strap in and I'm sure it is probably helping, I did not separate the ground "planes" in the ecu. Basically there are two halves to the ground bus inside the ECU. one side is for signals and such like the trigger inputs, coolant temp, air temp, etc. the other half is for power outputs. On all "plug and play" boards those two halves get connected together. Normally this is not a problem but when you put too much high voltage ground sinks through the ground plane it can cause issues. The ground strap I added should have done the job but the only way to be sure is to cut the connecting wire between the ground planes which I can do for you no charge if needed.

I'm fine with either option as long as they get me to my goal. I went with the 034 high output coils because I was under the impression that they are among the best out there and will get me a strong spark no matter what my power goals. I definitely don't want to settle for less. If thats possible with TTL coils, then I'm all about that. I just can't spend any more time or money on this ECU.

Thank you so much for your time and help with this Marc.

OK so I tried it out today on dist mode and it went alright.

It didnt turn off or anything. I verified that the problem was still there by putting it back on coils and ripping on it again lol.

The only problem with dist mode is that the car runs like poo when in boost on dist mode even at about 12psi. I have a few logs of hitting 12psi (or trying to) on the dist.

The car basically sounds like its skipping a cylinder or something when it hits boost. Like its just not firing the correct cylinder. I did have to go with 2.82 for the dwell settings as it woudn't let me put exactly 2.8 (it put 2.82 after I would put 2.8 in manually).

You said no more than 2.8ms so I don't know if that is the issue.

My dizzy is wired as follows (starting with raised ridge most clockwise terminal) 1,2,4,5,3.

loxxrider wrote:OK so I tried it out today on dist mode and it went alright.

It didnt turn off or anything. I verified that the problem was still there by putting it back on coils and ripping on it again lol.

The only problem with dist mode is that the car runs like poo when in boost on dist mode even at about 12psi. I have a few logs of hitting 12psi (or trying to) on the dist.

The car basically sounds like its skipping a cylinder or something when it hits boost. Like its just not firing the correct cylinder. I did have to go with 2.82 for the dwell settings as it woudn't let me put exactly 2.8 (it put 2.82 after I would put 2.8 in manually).

You said no more than 2.8ms so I don't know if that is the issue.

My dizzy is wired as follows (starting with raised ridge most clockwise terminal) 1,2,4,5,3.

The symptom you describe is typical of not enough dwell.. you can try 3ms, but dont exceed 6500 rpm at that level in dizzy mode. Point is: I think we are on the right track here. the shutdowns do not occur in distributor mode. Agreed?

Yes, agreed. It has been suggested to me to just go with TTL coils, so I definitely think thats the next course of action. Now who wants to buy my nice, shiny 034 coils?

So I guess that means I need a different coil harness too

loxxrider wrote:Yes, agreed. It has been suggested to me to just go with TTL coils, so I definitely think thats the next course of action. Now who wants to buy my nice, shiny 034 coils?

So I guess that means I need a different coil harness too

I'll trade you even for an LS2 setup, and I'll modify your coil harness to accept them if thats the direction you want to go.

a4kquattro wrote:

loxxrider wrote:Yes, agreed. It has been suggested to me to just go with TTL coils, so I definitely think thats the next course of action. Now who wants to buy my nice, shiny 034 coils?

So I guess that means I need a different coil harness too

I'll trade you even for an LS2 setup, and I'll modify your coil harness to accept them if thats the direction you want to go.

:woowoo:

Hrm...thats definitely a good option. I spent a buttload of money on the 034 coils. BUT the harness modification makes up for the price difference.

If I can make the same power, then I'm happy. (keep in mind I want to make 700 or 800+ eventually)

Does this symptom only show itself when your laptop is plugged in? Sorry if that has been answered...

What ECU is this Chris? Still Mega-tune

Its the VEMS ecu.

It happens worse (ecu turns off until I cycle power) when the computer is connected.

When the computer isn't plugged in, it just misses hard for a second and then goes on its way.

The thought of having to ground the ecu or else it will fry scares me a lot...

ECU got sent out for about the eleventy-billionth time today. Insurance kicks my ass but having no ECU, coils, or harness would kick it even more.

I'm having to go with either LSx or 1.8t coils now. I'm leaning to LSx because I dont want push down 1.8t and I believe LSx coils are cheaper.

Marc will test the ECU to make sure it works on the coils this time.



On another note, I am planning out my IC setup...with future goals in mind. Haven't figured out the core yet, but something like this

http://www.treadstoneperformance.com/pr ... ntercooler

requirements are 1200+CFM, 3" in and out, same side in and out, vertically oriented core, and end tanks on the top and bottom...just like in that pic.

IC piping will all be 3" and I think Hargett fittings all around.

I chose 3" because that keep the mach number below 4.0 (3" should make it around 3.7). That will avoid any undue friction effects within the pipes. Core and end tank orientation were chosen for good reasons too. There is a science behind this! I love it.

I'm thinking my piping is going to come from here...freakin amazing prices!

http://www.cxracing.com/mm5/merchant.mv ... ode=PIP300



I'll probably need to make or buy 034 "track density" motor mounts so I can get rid of my snub in order to fit the IC. I haven't taken measurements, but I have a feeling this will be a bitch to fit. Oh well! Gotta do it. Might have to move the aux radiator I s'pose.

OK, so I think LS2 coils are going to be the fix here. I have talked to enough people who said they should be able to support the power I want to make.

On another note, I think I'm going to get a job for the sole reason of getting my coilovers as soon as possible. Maybe if I work hard enough I can get them on before Fixxfest (Nov. 21st or so). That would be sweet. Hopefully the VEMS will be FINISHED by then, and then I will have a pretty sweet ride on my hands. Thats just a thought though.

See, I COULD order the coils right now if I sold some stock that I have, but I just can't bring myself to do it because I'll never be able to buy it for the same price again and I KNOW that its not going to do anything but go up. So I'm taking the responsible road here. I wish I didn't have to

Anyway, job sounds like a plan to me. Then I can work for like a month and get coilovers then quit haha. Its hard to hold down a job as a ME major. Right now I just live off of what I made during the summer (and a little help from the 'rents).

Keep in mind that the Cxracing and the majority of the ebay tubing kits come with "polished" tubing. It isnt polished aluminum though. It is chromed. This is cool if you plan on using couplers instead of welding. If you plan on welding it, it sucks. You have to strip off the chrome and inch on both sides of the weld, and then you still brown it/burn it a few inches back as well.

ShavedQuattro wrote:Keep in mind that the Cxracing and the majority of the ebay tubing kits come with "polished" tubing. It isnt polished aluminum though. It is chromed. This is cool if you plan on using couplers instead of welding. If you plan on welding it, it sucks. You have to strip off the chrome and inch on both sides of the weld, and then you still brown it/burn it a few inches back as well.

:stupid:
ask marc s about that LOL

the finest in chinese monkey metal. HUGE skip if you plan on welding it.

Ah damn haha nevermind then. I never thought of that. I definitely think I want the Hargetts though. So easy to remove, look clean, and no boost leak worries. I guess my pipes will have to come from racepartsolutions or something then :/ its something like $24 for a 3" 90 bend vs $15 from CXracing. Good thing I wont need much of it.

I think its going to be v-band off of the turbo (pointing downward), 90 to get it going towards the front of the car, then another 90 into the core via Hargett. Then Hargett and a 90 out of the core to get it going back towards the firewall (angles upwards) then a 45 to get it going horizontally again, then a 90 into the TB with a Hargett welted onto it...UGH thats a lot of 90s...and a lot of money in fittings :/

No word on the ECU yet, but I've got plenty of time. Not worried about that.

The good news is that I'm about half way to coils.

Kuma bought my BBS wheels AND I got a job (with the sole intention of buying coils)

Just need a few paychecks and then we are good to go!

I think the struts are going to be Konis because apparently they make a shock body that is an inch shorter than the bilstein sports. Then maybe 600lb springs in the front and 500lb in the rear? (weight transfer) and the audi 4k coilover stuff from ground control.

Then its roof rack time. Then, all I have to worry about is repairs and GO FAST stuff

oh, and I still really want to do a pearl white cage in the car.

Ah damn, I just remembered I still have to deal with the tranny...but I think I'm going to worry about that after the stock one blows.

In other news, I took a look under the car in the rear and I really think I could fit 12" wheels in there. If not, then definitely 11.5". That could be fun.

you could do 11.5s for sure with stretch and camber, i was looking earlier and theres TONS of room. :-)

derrish_vulf wrote:you could do 11.5s for sure with stretch and camber, i was looking earlier and theres TONS of room. :-)

One day

I talked to 034 yesterday about the coilovers. I'm ready to order the sleeves/rings and springs for the setup. Shocks and struts will come later (hopefully early to mid november), but I've officially decided on Koni.

034 said they'd call me back by the end of the day yesterday, but ground control sucks and they never called 034 back. They are calling again now lol.

I'm in a good mood right now though because I am pretty sure I have all A's in my classes right now. A in Dynamics, A in Fluid Mechanics, A in materials (100% lol), and A in Numerical Analysis right now. Haven't had a test for Num. Analysis yet though. I've really been focused this year, and I'm pretty happy with the results! It lets me focus on the car much more easily.

Also, Marc said the ECU should be ready to ship (back) out next week. Boy I cant wait.

My roommate is busily working on getting his MS ECU all soldered up. Its really cool to see what goes into making one!

oh and my passenger front door is still stuck shut. I'm going to have to take a sawzall to it. Anyone with spare striker pin and lock assembly let me know!

Ugh I wish I had the time to just machine my own coilover parts. The availability of suspension components for T44's is just ridiculous. I refuse to be a sucker and pay $2000+ for the 2bennett setup. Thats insane! Ground control is terrible with communication. 034 has tried twice (as far as I know) to call them and get a setup from them for me...to no avail so far. I have just heard bad things all around about them and their products, but I figure you cant go wrong with an anodized, machined sleeve, collar, and springs from a good company like Eibach. Seems to be pretty legit. Its just getting annoying waiting for this to get set into motion.

Just wanted to vent.

oh, and the fact that there is no compiled information about suspension travel and what to do about it (I.E. shortening strut housings, etc.) other than what derrish_vulf has gathered.

I wouldnt run a softer spring in the rear of a quattro car, esp. a T44 because it doesnt have a rear sway-bar. You mentioning "weight transfer" make me think you want to go drag racing, but IIRC FasterthanRS2 just went to a 1000# spring in the rear of his coupe and he obviously does drag racing. Also this is your DD, right? softer rear spring + no rear sway = understeer, probably worse than it had stock (pretty sure stock rears are stiffer than front too? I know My H&Rs are) and understeer sucks.

as for the parts, check out this place:
http://shop.a1racing.com/coiloverkits.a ... =30&page=2

I think I posted the P/N's needed at one point, as I was going to go that route but just went with H&Rs instead, and honestly, its plenty stiff... just need a rear sway soloution.

And check out this place for new and used pairs of C/O springs of various rates for cheap money.
http://www.racewerx.com/springs.htm