The Project Pad

haha alright. I just cant seem to find a "regular" crank cog though?

Guess I'll call 034 and see what they say.

i have the link
hold on

agh cant find it

lol its ok, no worries

Just want to keep track of things I have to fix soon.

JUST went out and fixed my fuel sender. YAY! Now I know when I'm going to run out of gas haha. That was a big bother for me while driving the car.

Still don't have tie rod ends in. Gotta do those this week and get a puller too. (not driving the car until the new ones are in) Also have to measure some things on the brake adapters so I can finalize my CAD designs.

Waiting for my MAF to come back to me.

Gotta put the studs in and put proper lug nuts on. My current setup isn't proper according to adapt-it-usa...so I'm doing it right. I couldn't find any lug nuts without locks...so all four wheels will have two different kinds of locks on them haha. Good luck getting those off thieves!

Gotta get/do all the timing belt stuff. Will contact 034 to make sure I have all the right parts.

(still have to do the steering rack and fix ac...but they are not necessary at the moment and I dont have the money to deal with the unnecessary.)

AND finally...since the carrera brakes dont have pad wear sensors, my dash beeps at me all the time telling me i need new ones. Any way to short those out?

on the brakes, jsut use the plugs from the old pads and rewire them to run a loop or not a loop or something, i did it on my s4, um yeah it should be as easy as to complete the circuit on the pad sensor, as when the pad is near gone it no longer continues
make sense?

Yep, so pretty much short it out...or something to that effect. Thats the idea I had, just not sure which wires. I have to look at it when the wheels are off again which will be when the tie rod ends get here.

i think it gets shorted when the pad is near gone, so complete it

i may have it backwards but tthe wiring is tits easy

Chris - Use an impact to loosen and tighten the crank bolt (the large bolt). But to get the crank lined up, I use a breaker bar on the bolt after putting the belt on and align the crank to the marks on the flywheel. I'd actually try to set the engine to the marks before taking the old belt off...

cuatrokoop wrote:I'd actually try to set the engine to the marks before taking the old belt off...

:stupid: :stupid: saves lots of :frustrated:

Yeah I see now. I think I might need a bigger impact tho. Like a big old 3/4. Maybe I can borrow one.

Yo Chris,

You could get those tie rod ends from a place down in Hialeah which lists them on ebay for really cheap a pair- $19.99

That's basically what one would cost you from the cheapest place I've found everywhere.

Here's a link

http://tinyurl.com/ljgodk


As for the "idler" roller, if the one on the 200 20VT is the same as in the 5KTQ, which I think it is, is a simply a roller with a bearing within. Is held to the front of the block by a 10mm bolt, more specifically screw onto the oil pump, if memory serves me well. After unscrewing the 10mm bolt, you could pry it out carefully from the oil pump housing.

Also, the cheapest I've found that "idler" is $33.04 from AutohausAZ.com

Link below of that part:

http://tinyurl.com/kjtzn4

As for you crank bolt, many have loosened it with an impact gun, as some have already suggested but best way to loosen that fucker is with the tool made specifically for it.

If it happens to be the same tool as in Audis 4K, 5K, 80, VW QSW, you're in luck cause I own it and could loan it to you

Link below of the tool:

http://tinyurl.com/kqf42e

Some have managed to come up/build with their version of that tool


-Peace,

-Louis

o sweet. Maybe I'll be able to hold off until I can get back up that way and then borrow it/get a little help from ya. There would be beer involved haha


Thanks for the links. I already ordered the tie rod ends unfortunately. But they were $15 a piece...so thats not too horrible.

well i just realized my replies are at the number above 665...so I think I'll just have to bump this beast

:-D :bashtard: :bump:

ahahahaa

Well, if you're doing a timing belt, idler, H2O pump this week, I could swing by your place and bring the crank-pulley locker tool.

I think I'm heading down to Indian town either Thurs or Friday to visit my mother in law.

Is your crank shaft seal leaking oil? Is also a recommended R&R item as is/are the cam seals since you have everything apart.



Lemme know,

-Louis

I dont think I'll be doing it this week as I dont really have the spare money to throw at a water pump, etc.

Crank seal isnt leaking or anything, but I would definitely get one. Prob get crank and cam seals, new idler, bearing, waterpump, belt, and crank cog.

Then there's nothing to it but to do it I suppose! (im sure crank locker will help too)

Chris, you need a sufficient air source. I've removed the bolt with a 400lb-ft gun before, but the compressor is set up to do a blast cabinet so it's pretty healthy (aka all the air I need). My current gun, with the right air source, does 650lb-ft reverse. It is only a 1/2" gun, Craftsman badged Ingersol-Rand...Got it on sale, model year close out a couple years ago.

I also have instructions from a fellow 20v'er on my website on how to make your own lock tool.

If you don't do the seals, that timing belt job is honestly pretty easy. Hardest part is getting the radiator/intercooler junk out of the way and finding the mark on the flywheel (distributor mark is easy).

humm ok. I mean I probably dont really need to do the seals considering I'll be building my other block in like a year or two.

I'll see if I can get my comp to go to a higher pressure. It sits at 120psi now. I think its rated for about 175 max.

With the crank-tool locker, all I needed was a 4-foot pipe and little macho power

haha, sweet.

I got everything I need to do my tie rod ends so I'm going to dive into that tonight along with fixing some other stuff and getting my trunk all pretty again since my fuel sender problem is sorted out.

Then I'll be able to focus on the t-belt issue.

You can cheat with air pressure, but the SCFM is the more important figure. I would not go beyond 150psi.

Anyway, yes, the lock tool lets you use a BIG breaker bar.

Don't forget to mark your old TRE's so you can set your new ones as close as you can get, then get a quickie front alignment (or were you doing the rear toe control links too?).

Yeah, I'm ready to get the t-belt done soon.

I just did one of the tie rod ends tonight, but I'm saving the other tomorrow because I made way too much noise doing it at 11:00 lol.

I put it in basically the same spot I think. I'm just doing the fronts because those are the only ones I damaged. I already feel better with the new ones in.

Definitely getting an alignment asap cuz the car pulls to the right for sure.

arrrrggggggggggggggggggggggggggggggghhhh

I got the tie rod ends done (with the help of a grinder hehe...and the proper tie rod puller tool), but upon removing the passenger front wheel, I discovered that it was caked with grease inside. :frustrated: :frustrated: :frustrated:

cv boot has a tear in it, so I'll be needing a new one. Guess I have to drop the whole suspension again WTF. lol

for now I just siliconed it up as good as I could. I may wrap it with like a whole roll of electrical tape too haha. Its just a very small tear, but it sprayed grease everywhere with just about 40 miles on it from when I think the rip occured.

You do NOT need to drop the suspension! BTDT with the V8 after the 5spd swap, same axles as your car. You just need to turn the wheel, the joints have enough movement in them to wiggle it out, both sides...Sounds like how I caught the tear in my outer boot.