The Project Pad

"Smack My Ass And Call Me Sally"



http://www.hotsauceworld.com/smacmyassand.html

Im impressed Chris. You look like you are well on your way to a nice setup. Why don't you figure all this two piece strut, coilover, 01e stuff out so that you can just come down to Vegas and point me in the right direction for His Urq. I think you are right in the move around parts thing. Charley has got some nice stuff going on in his new digs.

Continuing on with the shell stripping and clean-up…

Still a couple harnesses, rack, etc. to be removed before things can really get cleaned up:



Pulled everything but the fuel lines and the brake line to the rear. I went underneath and pulled all of the heatshields so the bottom could be more thoroughly cleaned up:



There is some damping rubber to be removed to allow the fuse box flange to be installed:



It was rock hard and not coming off 40F, so a little heat was applied and it peeled off without much trouble:



Much like the stuff removed from the driver’s footwell, some tar residue remained and goes away quickly with some paint thinner and a scotch brite pad:



There you can also see why the patch is required, as the ‘flat’ on the early chassis cars is not large enough for the fuse box flange perimeter seal. Sure, you can do this other ways…this is just my way of doing it. I’m nearly ready to make the cuts and bond the new panel in.

This is about as clean as this thing is going to get inside:



So I pulled the chassis dollies out from under the 4K:



And rolled the chassis outside for the cleaning. It is nice that I can easily move this around by myself.



So I have a few hours of scrubbing done, but the wheel wells and underneath still needs quite a bit of elbow grease to get some of the dirt/grease off. Some of it has probably been there for 25+ years.



And the side with the worst of the body damage:



Along with getting the shell cleaned up and ready to start accepting parts, I continued my suspension build…honey badger style, of course…

So we were last left with three functional Koni yellows (2x 86-2086, 1x 8610-1262)…I removed the chipping paint and am getting the ready for repainting:



The most cost-effective solution was to order a replacement for the blown strut (8610-1262). So, naturally, that’s what I did:



I also got some more sleeves for the coilovers:



I removed the stock spring perches and then powerwashed the uprights and the subframes/control arms:



So now, I’ve got to start cleaning up all of the dirty parts I’ve removed and plan on re-using. I’m waiting on some bushings and things, but can do a lot more prep work in the meantime. It’s still a bit too cold to be painting here, so I’ll try and push that as late as possible.

I’ve got to start figuring out what collections of axles are going to make everything work happily together. And also the shift linkage. Wiring harnesses are going to get sorted through sometime this week.

That is one clean body... nice to see them in such shape.

One tip, you should always replace shocks in pairs. Having an axle with one used and one new will not be the best setup.

Also, with new style suspension you will probably not be able to use the early rear subframe.

Cheers

ralleyquattro wrote:That is one clean body... nice to see them in such shape.

One tip, you should always replace shocks in pairs. Having an axle with one used and one new will not be the best setup.

Also, with new style suspension you will probably not be able to use the early rear subframe.

Cheers

You're right, and I did think about it. Being that they are adjustable, I am assuming that I can adjust them to perform similarly, essentially compensating for any orifice wear or the like. I figure, I can at worst have the original rebuilt back to 'new' specs. Honey badger style, lol.

I've got a later 4kq subframe as well. It has had the swaybar mods done to it.

Is there an incompatibility with the tie rods?

I'm still trying to figure this all out and am doing a lot of it on the fly because it is hard to figure out the issues until you are actually trying to do it.

4kq rear subframe will work with B3 rear struts, they both have outbound tie rods (outside of the subframe).
Your Ur-q subframe will not because it has the inbound tie rods (closer to the driveshaft).
Where did you pick up those sleeves?

Cheers

Like your new title, and that body is spectacular!!! It is of course very sad that the rear subframe is of no value to you. Please let me know when you need to get it out of the way.

Thanks, Martin. I see what you mean now. I'll take some pics and post them for the unedumacated folk. Probably can get rid of the original tie rods I was holding onto just in case as well.

The sleeves are from A1 Racing...
A1-12452-H...they are a snug fit over several of the housings...some housings may fit tighter due to variance and up to .001" interference requiring some minor material removal from the OD of the housing.

And Yes, Greg, you still have first refusal on these other parts...It looks like the original tie rods are going to be available along with the subframe. What did I get myself into?

"What did I get myself into?"

It seems that you planned very well to me. What could you possibly be missing for the suspension conversion? Now you just need to decide which rear diff you are going to use.

Thanks for keeping me in mind for the spare parts!

I'm pretty sure that I won't be using the urq rear diff as it is 3.89. The 01E is 4.11. I'm planning on using a rear diff from a B3. So there you go.

And yes, it's pretty clear down to the knuckles. Then it gets a bit hazy with the hub and axle configurations. I need to inventory the parts I have and see how close I can get them and then fill in the gaps where needed. There will be some trade-offs to consider.

Again Chris, don't sweat the axles. I'll make you custom lengths if needs be. Just get the hubs figured out and we will make something work!! Pikes peak or bust!!!

BTW, if Greg refuses those rear tie rods, I know Sean in Vegas with the Helios needs one in a bad way. He has the joints, but needs the actual bar.

Damn,

That's one of the cleanest urq's I've ever seen.

This is going to be a good one!!!

Cheers,

Craig

Yes in deed - if you are willing to part ways with the original rear tie rods give me dibs.

The Blue Pill is 3% Iroz at the moment.

At least I don't have to worry about that 3% getting worn out!!


Looking real nice Chris. As much as you are getting done, I'm starting to feel bad. Keep figuring out all the tricks on the two piece suspension and 01e conversion. I'll want to pick your brain.

Do you still have the 4kq shell? I'd sure like to cut the rear out of it if so.

Thanks for the comments, guys.

John, your son has all this in his head too, ya know. But with much more clarity and regard for the many permutations. He's definitely helping to figure it out. I need to put some stakes in the ground with some parts on hand so that it simplifies what options are left. Has my one piece rear ship really sailed? Maybe not. :bashtard:

I do have the 4K still, but it will probably be gone come summertime. You can have what you need from it. You, me, or Hank...someone can cut out what you need and get it down to you.

A bit of an update on progress across multiple fronts…since I was waiting on some suspension parts and the weather was still too cold for harness manipulation, there was quite a bit of bouncing around from one area to another. Or maybe I have ADD/ADHD and just don’t know it…

I finally made the first cuts into the chassis to get the fuse box ready for mounting…



A bit more trimming of the flange and it has a nice perimeter bonding interface to the chassis…



Then I cleaned up the flange to bare metal for the adhesive…



I am using a 3M panel bonding adhesive for this mostly non-structural patch…



And here it is all prepped and mocked up in place…



I also acquired some more suspension pieces…as I want spares for the eS2 as well. I’m hoping both cars can have mostly the same suspension/drivetrains for maintenance simplicity. These need to be disassembled and cleaned up still…



I also used a break in the weather to get some parts cleaned up that will allow me to start putting the engine bay back together…



I picked up a set of Mustang tranny mounts to use for the motor mounts. I was not happy with the 034 ones on the eS2 and have heard great things about these. I just needed to increase the hole spacing by .05” or so. I’m hoping I can use the rear mounting holes to shift the motor back a bit. It is hard to beat the price on these to.



I’ve got pretty much all the parts sitting around and could not walk around these bumpers anymore, so I decided to at least get the rear back on temporarily…



I also took this opportunity to clean the bumpers inside and out…



And get the shocks turned in to reduce the OAL of the car. I had to weld the shaft to keep it from spinning…



I threaded the rest of the shaft so I could just turn them in and have them in any position that I ultimately wanted…



All cleaned up, regreased, and mounted in place. These are turned in most of the way here. I also removed the reflectors under the lights. The holes will be filled ultimately, but plugged initially...



It can go a bit further, but is good for now. At least the bumper is out of the middle of the room…



I also removed the rest of the pinstriping at this point with my gummy wheel. This worked better than a heat gun on these old, weathered stripes…



I have decided to try the 2.0T coils initially and have been looking at the best way to work them into the build. Here they are on a 7A cover. Very close to the fill port…



And the holes will need to be reworked a bit, along with spacers to match the coil pack height…Some have modified the coil pack rubber, but I'd rather have a plug n play solution, even if it is a bit of extra work up front



Of course, the other options are an AAN, which I don't really like, or to just replace the whole valve cover with something custom. I have started playing around with a design here…



Too bad raw material is so damn expensive; individual spacers/modified upper plate for the 7A would be the most cost effective solution. I'll need to think about it and play around with some designs for both routes.

I got a nice shipment from 034 the other day with everything except for the offset bushings. I was surprised to see that they are milling the standard spacers now. I guess it’s cheaper for them than the lathed ones I had received before. I also got some studs, a firewall brace, and some track density tranny mounts…



In an effort to prepare for the wiring, I have been getting interiors bits together. The HVAC components, center console and dash are making their way in to determine what wires need to go where…



I am also pleased to report that ARP exchanged my main studs with absolutely no hassle whatsoever. I just specified what I wanted (which is what I hope I need, lol) in replacement. This issue has been discussed before…

http://www.motorgeek.com/viewtopic.php?p=535832

I ended up with eleven at 4.30” and one at 3.75”. I assume the exclusive 034 kit has those lengths, but cannot confirm definitively…



Oh, and I got this to play with, too…so hopefully I can get all of the wiring sorted out here this spring.



Still uncertain as to how I want to do the wiring exactly. The original plan for AAN harness splice is becoming less attractive as many engine sensors and components are moving away from the original I5 connectors that make the original harnesses a plus. The interior side is a moot point as the 55pin connector is going away anyway.

This is really starting to get fun now…

Nice! Make a girdle or something that bolts to the top of the valve cover for all 5 coils. I'd buy one.

Very nice Chris! Nice valve cover design!