The Project Pad

Stock vr pump.

I would be more concerned with a sight glass

as long as the fill level is near the return hole you shouldnt have a problem

well like i said, my issue with the stock 20v pump with the last setup was that the can would puke fluid. whether its from lack of a baffle, lack of a pressure relief cap, etc.

Zerb wrote:well like i said, my issue with the stock 20v pump with the last setup was that the can would puke fluid. whether its from lack of a baffle, lack of a pressure relief cap, etc.

crank pulley effective diameter vs the diameter of crank pulley its expecting?

you can always run a bit larger pulley to slow the pump down

crank pulley was the stock size, just a fluidampr instead of a stocker.

no, im saying you can put a larger pulley on the ps pump to slow it down

I'm saying why would that be needed? If it's the stock pump it'll be spinning at the same speed it was designed for.

It just won't be feeding the rack it was designed for. Lol.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk - now Free

right, the pump spins at a rate for the rack it was designed for, the b2/3 racks take less pressure than the racks from vw vr cars

so you can slow the pump down to not "over assist" the rack

So. Slow but steady here. Got rid of the stock headlight bracket things and made some of my own to allow a square tube to be welded to them and ran across the front of the bay to mount the rad to.



Then we've got this little bracket I made to mount the lower part of the radiator. I will also probably weld some more square tubing to that and hang the intercooler from it as well.





For those of you curious as to how much clearance there in in here between the rad and the motor. Not so much.



Then. We got the ugly start to the new spot to mount the new catch can setup. Will end up welding a sheet of metal back in there and then just drilling out the holes for the AN bungs once it's all setup.





Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Brand new kinetic mani showed up today. Right at home.







Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Is there no way to move the block/trans back an inch or 2? You have a 420lbs engine hanging over your axle there.

Looking good man, that thing is going to be motivated.

ChrisAudi80 wrote:Is there no way to move the block/trans back an inch or 2? You have a 420lbs engine hanging over your axle there.

where there's a will there's a way. But, there's certainly no will in me to want and do that to be completely honest.

so, this isnt any sort of final product here. it was more so just to see if my idea would work for an intake funnel here. just took some 4" aluminum i had laying around and hammered it into shape to fit, lol. In the end, definitely something that i will want to make in the end once i get other things sorted out up front.




Then, we have what looks to be a botched abortion on the firewall as far as welding goes. I knew the thin sheetmetal there would be hard to weld, but i didnt think it would be that hard. looking back i should have just tacked the entire thing all around and took my time....but im stubborn and i kept trying to get a nice puddle going and go for as far as i could before it would inevitably burn through and id be stuck cleaning up the mess. Oh well, thats what they have grinders for i guess. Oh, thats the catch can behind the mess by the way. the only thing sticking into the engine bay is the AN fittings off the can, pretty nifty.




And then we move onto the pretty much completed radiator and intercooler mount brackets up front. built off of the radiator mounting plate i had there in previous pictures and then had tabs for hangers welded to the intercooler core. drilled some 1/2 holes in the square tubing, put some 8mm nutserts in there, and we're done. ill make some mounts for the lower of the intercooler as well once we get the end tanks on there and squared away.




and last but not least for last night, we have the relocated wastegate on this nice brand new kinetic manifold. allows me to run the downpipe much easier by hacking off the cast elbow thats originally used for the wastegate, and having the wastegate there allows for better boost control as well, proven fact on a few buddies cars...not just an assumption on my part here.

So. We have some catch can lines all done. And some fender flare ideas a brewin. Other then that I'm awaiting my exhaust manifold to come back to me with the new wastegate placement welded on, and the spot where the original port for the wastegate was welded over after I chopped it off.

LOL the firewall must have been good learning for you Now I feel better about the welds I've been making on my floor pan! Good practice for body work if you ask me.

This thing is looking good, keep it up!

You can't tell in the newest pics. But I redid the bottom of that square piece I welded in and instead of trying to get a bead even with the lowest heat setting. I just did a shitload of tack welds...100 times better. Lol. Definitely good practice for other more precise bodywork that may need to take place soon


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

So I set myself up a little anodizing station in my garage. And it's been downhill ever since on anything else getting done. Lol.










And to break up all the anodizing pics. I got this cool touch switch panel by auto rod controls. Awesome awesome awesome piece of electronics. Cool shit for sure. I look forward to simplifying the switch wiring in version.....4? of the interior.

soooo. thats nifty. i kinda like it.

have you ever seen this stuff here?

http://www.leashelectronics.com/Sportsm ... WB2012.htm

http://www.leashelectronics.com/Heavy-D ... -8RBHO.htm

http://www.leashelectronics.com/Pro-Str ... PS2012.htm

http://www.leashelectronics.com/Street- ... d-SSWB.htm

speeding-g60 wrote:soooo. thats nifty. i kinda like it.

have you ever seen this stuff here?

http://www.leashelectronics.com/Sportsm ... WB2012.htm

http://www.leashelectronics.com/Heavy-D ... -8RBHO.htm

http://www.leashelectronics.com/Pro-Str ... PS2012.htm

http://www.leashelectronics.com/Street- ... d-SSWB.htm

Cool stuff Aaron, I'll keep that in mind for my Porsche street-legal track car when I get to wiring.
I was also thinking of these, a cheaper option to Motec PDM:
http://www.isispower.com/

speeding-g60 wrote:soooo. thats nifty. i kinda like it.

have you ever seen this stuff here?

http://www.leashelectronics.com/Sportsm ... WB2012.htm

http://www.leashelectronics.com/Heavy-D ... -8RBHO.htm

http://www.leashelectronics.com/Pro-Str ... PS2012.htm

http://www.leashelectronics.com/Street- ... d-SSWB.htm

Never seen but that's some cool shit. Although for treefiddy they can keep it lol


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

and your 4 switch setup costs how much?

not saying its for everyone, but its an option that was pretty freakin cool when it was showed to me, by another Team Lugtronic (tuned) guy who runs a 9 sec 4g63 E30

myself, i run only 4 switches. BUT, the way i wire stuff it really doesnt conform to the norm. but you know this....

Switch panel was near 100. Special deal for a special guy through work. :-)


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

oh you's a "special" guy aight.... J/K

Got to spray a new powder color that I got last week. Super mirror black. It certainly lives up to its name. Then tried anodizing all of my hose ends red. Failed. Tried again. Failed again. Gave up on anodizing and tried powdercoat. Success and I like it better as well. Made some wastegate hardline plumbing as well. Stainless. Polished. Here's some pics.