The Project Pad

Carbon fiber looks amazing - enjoyed your video and introduction, a lot of it resonated with the same reasons I care about the platform/cars at all - even the watching brake repairs growing up haha. One of the first 5 cylinders I heard looked identical (ok - maybe that one had a bit more rust) to that red 4k. It was nostalgic thinking about that car and it was impossible to get it stuck in anything we put it in snow wise, axles rebuilds get old quick haha - keep up the great content and cars.

Part 1 video is up!

Amazing documentation and information, man!! This would have been instrumental when I did my swap, and I'm kind of ashamed I didn't take the time to do something similar with mine, but I'm glad you've put it all together so concisely.

If you don't mind me hijacking real quick, I'll drop in my experience for anyone perusing this in the future: For the cheap bastards like myself trying to see how to make this more feasible on a hooptie budget, there are a couple of areas I saw (which Alex already touched on):

- Just a 6-speed bin flash on the ECU is like $150 from EFI Express. It'd be nice to have all the extraneous bits coded out like this one, but it works. You might even be able to look into flashing it yourself with the documentation available on Nefmoto, but I haven't ventured that far myself. Semi-related side note: you won't be able to recode your ABS module if your steering angle sensor has a fault.

- Clutch master-slave line: I ended up just making a line with 3/16" NiCu line, some flaring tools, and flares nuts (sorry I can't recall the exact details)

- For a short-wheelbase, you can use a junkyard A8L driveshaft on your swap, provided your clutch/flywheel setup doesn't use the 11mm transmission spacer for a dual mass flywheel. The difficulty is that the carrier bearing ends up in free space, since the wrong half is extended. However, I discovered you can flip the driveshaft backwards and there exists a flat boss centered on the driveshaft with tapped holes that almost line up. I chopped off the piece of the shield that originally used this boss, and elongated the carrier bearing holes to bolt it up. (You can see the original mount at the bottom of the first pic).




Okay, hijack over. Keep up the good work, man! I'm looking forward to see the rest of the videos.

Thanks for the extra info! Yep can confirm the A8L shaft works too. My buddy Howard who also is in Seattle and performed the swap in pretty much the same time frame as me (featured in a later video) did exactly what you did and it worked great for him. He used the same clutch/flywheel as I did so no spacer used with his setup.

Part 2!

Part 3!

Part 4

Part 5

In Part 6 I prep the 01E with fresh fluid for install, build the reverse light harness, and install the transmission!


In Part 7 I talk a bit about shifter alignment, rebuild the CV's, install new wheel bearings, and install the CV's and driveshaft.


In Part 8 I reinstall the exhaust and start the car for the first time!!!


In Part 9 I wire up the clutch switch and show you how to program the ECU and ABS modules with VCDS.


In Part 10 I add a VSS sender to my B6 A4 3.0L 01E transmission in order to get a working

In today's episode, I show you how to adapt and install some budget transmission mounts in your D2 Audi. New mounts are no longer available and when they were they cost ~$300 each! Some slight fabrication required, but simple enough to do with a power drill and angle grinder.
Total cost for these two mounts was around $85.
(2x) Energy Suspension 3.1108G GM transmission mount - $35 each
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C ... UTF8&psc=1
1.5" aluminum round stock
Heat wrap optional but recommended.

PXL_20200911_005918329 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

PXL_20200912_053335396 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

Adjustable Upper Control Arms on a D2 S8

If you can't find the now NLA 034 Motorsport Adjustable UCAs or don't want to run heim joints on a street car, I've come up with a solution using some B5 parts. The forward B5 arm is too short and will need to be extended. I did this using the Moog tie rod adjuster below and some M18x1.5 LH and RH threaded rod. See the video for more specific details.

Shopping List:
*(2x) Moog RK100092 control arm and ball joint assemblies (same as SPC)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KH ... UTF8&psc=1

*(2x) Moog ES3368S tie rod end adjusting sleeve
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C ... UTF8&psc=1

M18x1.5 LH and RH threaded rod. I had this fabricated, but might be able to find it for purchase. Or chop it off the too short control arm aduster.
Commenter on YT had a good point about buying the corresponding F150 tie rod ends that the adjuster works with then using those instead of fabbing/buying threaded rod.

1-1.5" aluminum round stock for fabricating a spacer

More details for alignment when I get to posting that video, but just pay special attention to chassis interference of the arms when turning. I aligned it only checking upwards clearance when it was straight and had issues that caused me to redo the whole alignment.

Both arms after the foward one had been modified
PXL_20200915_043735889 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

Hole diameter is too small on the B5 forward arm and has to be drilled out
PXL_20200912_044216998 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

PXL_20200912_044509911 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

Installed
PXL_20200919_033743487 by Vex Art Media, on Flickr

Lots more little details and nuances in the video