The Project Pad

It is the A-Clutch for the 1st-4th, the reverse doesnt work either which hopefully its not the drum and just the F-clutch itself cause im pretty sure my master kit comes with one and the F-clutch's are pretty prone to going out, kinda like a big washer.

WOW!

I HATE, dealing with companies that arent on the Ball.

So like 3 weeks back i purchased the Master Rebuild kit for the A6. On the companies website they had listed the 01V trans for the 2001 A6 Quattro 4.2 , i called them and said that was incorrect that the 01V was 6cyl engines and i needed the 5hp24 the 01L. They called the manufacturer and returned my call saying that it was simply listed wrong and that it was the correct kit that i would be receiving and to go ahead and purchase. I would simply get some extra parts that wouldnt be used. So i purchased it and found out yesterday that the kit was wrong. the clutch rings were all the wrong size, the gaskets were wrong. is enough to sum up how i'm feeling right now.

they sent the 5hp19 kit. the problem is i needed to be headed back to Utah this sunday and its basically impossible to get the rebuild kit here by saturday. (PLEASE CORRECT ME IF IM WRONG, CAUSE IF I CAN GET IT HERE BY SATURDAY I NEED TO DO THAT) so they are refunding the original purchase and paying for return shipping. what they want me to do is purchase the CORRECT kit (which is cheaper) but pay the $110 for next day express which they say wont get here till monday cause next day express is only M-F. (what they say, again not sure if thats true) or if there is a company that could have it here by saturday. They say that they will refund the difference of the shipping so the CORRECT order price+shipping will be the exact same as the first INCORRECT ORDER. I've got a few hours to figure out what im gonna do. SUGGESTIONS??

Ya this parts situation is a freakin joke.

yummy yummy parts galore.



got the parts all squared away, i'll be stuck here 2 more days but the correct master rebuild kit actually is gonna be cheaper than the current one they sent after i worked everything out with the company.

YAY! That just means more time to work on the Soup.

Buy what you need and dispute it with your CC.
You told them and they still screwed it up

ringbearer wrote:Buy what you need and dispute it with your CC.
You told them and they still screwed it up

You mean dispute the first kit that is wrong? Cause they did refund 100% of the original 5hp19 kit and paid for the return shipping. And gave me $60 off the correct kit and did expedited shipping. I did pay for the correct kit with credit. First kit was debit.

Thanks for all the input guys. Gotten lots of help from Everybody.

........OLD and BUSTED!!!................NEW HOTNESS!!!

Yum yum!

very nice

MIB reference. lol just thought it fit and was funny.

well, Tranny is back together and in the car. Fluids filled, and i turned on the car (still on jacks) pop it in R...... nothing Then forward, and got all the wheels spinning. so i dropped it from the jacks and tried backing it out of the shop shifting into R feel a SLIGHT pull that instantly goes away. revving a little does nothing, car wont move in Reverse. So i pushed it out of the shop and threw her in Drive and she pulls/sounds/feels GREAT!!

So, ALL Forward/Drive gears work great, but reverse still not working.

I did rebuilt the full F-Clutch drum (steels, clutches, O-rings, and Piston) POSITIVE it was put back together correctly.

My thoughts are, What could still be the cause of R not working? Valve Body issues (if so, what specific parts). Are there fluid lines that specifically go the the F-Clutch pack that may have popped out (some lines were kinda loose) to cause the pack to not get fluid...

input? suggesstion?

Overall, for my very first tranny rebuild i feel it came along well.

Recheck the fluid level at temp. If it is good, check the MV2 solenoid, then the EDS3 solenoid. Then move to the orifices in the VB for those solenoids.

paracaidista2.7t wrote:Recheck the fluid level at temp. If it is good, check the MV2 solenoid, then the EDS3 solenoid. Then move to the orifices in the VB for those solenoids.

part of the reason i started this thread is actually for an assignment for my Tech in Human life class. so i'll get started on the rebuild that i did.

First off i wanna thank Ben, (85oceanic) for all his help and knowledge of Audis which helped a long the way and all others which provided links and info for the rebuild.

Graygoose89 wrote:part of the reason i started this thread is actually for an assignment for my Tech in Human life class. so i'll get started on the rebuild that i did.

First off i wanna thank Ben, (85oceanic) for all his help and knowledge of Audis which helped a long the way and all others which provided links and info for the rebuild.

No sweat man! I love this stuff!

So the REAL work begins.

First off i got the A6 up on some jack stand in my shop up in Oregon. Initially i thought i would be able to tackle this project over presidents day weekend. . Ya i was thinking a little too optimistically. So during Spring break from school drove the Supra back up to La Grande (videos in Mexico w/Oceanic) to "DO WORK". The wife and baby stayed in Provo, Utah cause she knew i'd be out in the shop all day long for basically the whole time and she didnt want to go for the 16 hr round trip just to sit in the house all day.

Here are some extra Files i found useful in the dissasembly
http://stephane.laisne.free.fr/technic/AutomaticTransmission/picts/zf5hp24a/1.jpg
http://stephane.laisne.free.fr/technic/AutomaticTransmission/picts/zf5hp24a/3.jpg
http://www.transakpp.ru/images/akpp/ZF%205HP24.jpg
http://xn----7sbab5aiq9afpl1d.xn--p1ai/assets/images/113.gif





STEP 1

Removed all plastic accessory shrouds, under the car, in the engine bay, removed air filter and any of the extra little junk that comes out easily.

STEP 2

Removed all the wheels (really only front are necessary to drop the trans)



STEP 3

Remove the front drive axle by removing the large bolt on the end and all the TORX screws that bolt to the trans. Do this to both sides.









STEP 4

Remove the metal shrouds that go around the driveshaft. (3 Torx each)

STEP 5

Remove the O2 sensors, First unbolt the downpipes so you can access the O2 sensors easier. I sprayed some liquid wrench to help loosen the exhaust nuts. Of course i was worried about stripping or breaking something but they came off quite nice. kinda hard to get to but squeeze your hand with a wrench down through the engine bay (easiest route) and remove sensors to make taking downpipe out much easier.

Passenger side O2 from rear of engine.


Driver side O2 sensor


Unbolted Downpipe.


I had to remove the exhaust sleeves after the Cats to be able to angle the downpipes out because i didnt have a whole lot of clearance under the car.

STEP 6

Remove Sway Bar

STEP 7

Drop rear part of exhaust to access rear drive shaft.


STEP 8

Remove heat shields covering rear drive shaft

STEP 9

Remove rear drive shaft by jamming a screw driver between bolts and then up against the body of the car so you can torque each bolt loose as you turn the drive shaft. Once all bolts are out drop the drive shaft and move it aside.

STEP 10

Remove Starter

STEP 11

Using a flat head screw driver turn the flexplate (prying on the teeth) through the starter hole so you can individually remove the torque converter bolts.

STEP 12

Remove Bell Housing bolts all the way around


STEP 13

Easiest way from me to get the trans out at this point (without removing the sub-frame) was to remove the rear part of the sub-frame to allow flex from the forward bushings.


STEP 14

Remove shifter cable, fluid lines on driver side and anything else that may be connected to the trans.

STEP 15

Once the trans is free, use a floor jack to lift the trans off the sub frame. At this point, you'll definitely need and extra hand or two unless you have a trans jack. We had to use a crow bar and slightly pry the rear part of the sub-frame/control arm down to open space to pull the trans out towards the rear of the car.

Pictured with the drive shaft of course.

STEP 16

Place Trans on your work bench and sit back and relax because over the next couple days the REAL fun begins.








The transmission is VERY heavy all together so you will probably need that extra hand to get it on a table or wherever.

STEP 17

Remove the Rear gear box on the trans. (a lot of gear oil will come out if you havent drained it already.






Remove the gears that are on the rear of the trans and use a puller to remove the bearing to access the rear Torx screws (these screws connect to the F-Clutch/Reverse)

STEP 18

Remove the front diff, and shaft through the center of the trans. Then remove the shaft tube (snap ring on one side)




STEP 19

Remove the Trans Fluid Pan and Valve Body. It's A LOT of torx bolts. they are different lengths so just make sure you put them back where they belong. I seperated them into different tubs and lableled those.


All the beautiful metal shards collected by the trans magnets and a couple shards of what i would find the culprit of later on.






STEP 20

Remove the Torx bolds on the Oil pump. MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE TWO PLUGS, THERE ARE TWO BOLTS BEHIND THOSE. (i used the handle of a ratchet and a hammer to tap them out)






I used vice grips and and slid hammer to gently pull out the pump.

STEP 21

Remove the 2 fluid lines that are located about the cent of the trans pan area. there are also two small snap rings which hold 2 springs and rubber washers. Remove those and replace when putting back together.

STEP 22

After the Oil Pump is removed you can grab and slid out the A-Clutch assembly. it will come out in one large piece. Below i have it taken apart a bit.

Clutch rings are all still in place.

Found the culprit of it fail-safeing into limp mode (5th gear)




Purchased an Upgraded A-Clutch drum. doesnt have the weak cut groove in the upper edge, so the aftermarket can handle a lot more power/torque.


Another cause for failure was the O-ring on the A-clutch piston had torn.


STEP 23

Remove each clutch drum one by one. I laid them out on the table and Numbered their location in the order they came out so i could easily put them back in the exact opposite order to make sure it was done correctly.



The above drum (D&E) was a bit more difficult. it slides in quite snug so i had to work it back n forth from edge to edge to slowly work it out.

Remove the gear shaft which extends out the back of the trans.




To remove the final clutch pack (F-Clutch) you have to remove the torx bolts on the rear of the trans under neath the bearing.


F-Clutch New Piston
<a href="http://s593.photobucket.com/user/bluebullet89/media/Audi%20A6%20Quattro/IMG_0515_zps5932693f.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/tt18/bluebullet89/Audi%20A6%20Quattro/IMG_0515_zps5932693f.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_0515_zps5932693f.jpg"/></a>



EVERYTHING IS REMOVED FROM THE TRANS


Remove the clutch discs and steel rings from each pack and replace one at a time. the new cluth rings need to soak in Pentosin ATF for about 20-30 min before putting them into the clutch drums.

Took all the parts to Oceanic's parts washer YUM!!! they came out pretty.


Trans case all clean

So these were the shards from the A-Clutch that were broken off


STEP 24

Rebuild the Valve Body (I hadnt purchased a rebuild kit for the valve body so i simply took it all apart, cleaned it very thoroughly and put back together).




Pay close attention to the location of the screen filters, the springs and plastic ball.


Also note the color and location of the small plastic rings and their colors. They have different sized center holes to allow different amounts of fluid through.



After all is said and done and clutch packs put back together, simple reverse the process of how you took everything apart and put it all back together.

Great write up man! I know us ZF guys will really appreciate this!

That's nuts. I think I just had a mini seizure.

Ok trans gurus. so one night all the Forward gears just stopped. didnt hear and pop, grinding, or anything just came up to a stop light and it when it turned green the car didnt move. i got the codes checked and it said incorrect gear ratio.

Again the trans was fully rebuilt with upgraded A-clutch drum. It wasnt the fluid lines (oil tubes) those are all fine. when i got the valve body pulled there were some small metal shavings and when i started tearing the valve body apart this is what i found.




so does anyone know where those chunks may have come from. A transmission professor at school thinks the gears may have stopped working cause he thinks the oil pump has gone out. is that very common in these ZF trannies? 01L

I hope someone here has a good answer, because this is super poopy. Grrr

That's really shitty, BUT... what do you expect? You were driving around with a broken transmission, further damage was bound to occur. If your engine had a broken valve spring or spun bearing or a dead hole would you drive around with it like that? The 5HP series of transmissions work great when they are working, but they are very sensitive to damage and debris. Whatever was causing your lack of reverse likely caused this failure.