The Project Pad

PRY4SNO wrote:Are those guides showing signs of age/embrittlement?

Or is that exactly how they should appear? Asking because I literally have no idea.

Me neither this chain stuff all looks
Foreign to me ... when I pull everything apart I’ll get a better look at it , I thought in these early engines the guides were kind of a weak point so I figured maybe I should have it all be new when it goes together .

I will say the way the timing tools Work on this engine is pretty cool. Much better than trying to align two dots to something and then align a mark with the edge of a valve cover .

Best to replace it all with new while you are in there. They can be quite noisy if you re-use the old parts.

Thank Jim. I did order the kit , it’s gonna take a bit to get here but I’m not in any hurry . Still have a lot left to do with the car but the list is getting smaller .

Fixed the brake booster , I can’t explain why but the booster was the issue with the sticking . Not a common way to fail. Thanks to the awesome dual stage booster kit swapping a booster is well under 20 minute job .

Anyways .
Got new injectors ID1050XDS .




I was able to get the car started but damn it was difficult. It’s not super cold here but in the low 30’s .

I’ve got a lot of work to do the fueling . Currently have the Req_fuel at 2.3 . If I can get it to start and warm up car idles at about 1300-1400. And is hunting all over the place . I think part of that might be because I’ve got just a throttle body , no ISV .

This is the radical throttle body I have



I think I’m going to have to figure out exactly how to get it set so that I can let enough air in to get the car to idle properly but not really sure . I’ve never used one like this before, it’s basically a positive seal when closed . So I guess I may have to set the stop where it allows just a small amount of air in but I’m not sure how I can make that “exact”

Coming along nicely. The wiring harness looks well done. Just curious, why not use the 07K's throttle body?

For the throttle body I simply just figured sticking with the throttle cable would make things easier since I was already doing so many "new to me " things with this car all at once, and cable operated TB is what I have used before in VEMS .
Now if I ever decide to do another swap or a revision, Drive-by wire with a Bosch Tb would probably be in the list of one of the things to do differently- but I'm not exactly sure as far as what all it would take and if VEMS could run it.

Makes perfect sense. I wasn't even thinking DBC vs DBW.

jbrentd wrote:Makes perfect sense. I wasn't even thinking DBC vs DBW.

I’m pretty sure stock is DBW but I don’t know if all years , the one I have is though.
So I just looked at what other people had done and I saw the eBay one looked like it worked for 2 of the 3 or so people that had running cars .

I am having a little trouble though... with this tb. I’ve got to keep messing with it today but basicslly I’ve got an area of about 0 to say 5 or 8% throttle that is not showing any TPS % . So I’ll
Have to see if I can sort that out as it’s keeping be from doing any base tuning

audifreakjim wrote:The filter should have a check valve, use a big TDI filter if you can. I always pre-lube mine with the accusump. The oil does drain down, but I think your adapter has the check valve in it, correct?

One thing Hank and I always bounced around was adding tension to the control pressure spring to increase oil pressure. I'm going to add a port of some sort of port to the oil pan if I ever have this think apart again. Basically a way to access a preload screw added to the control pressure spring.

By the way, you will never see 3.7 bar at the port on the front of the head that most people tap into. I'm lucky to see 1.5 bar there when hot. Which also reminds me, I have been meaning to move the feed line to the turbo from there. It may be adding to the pressure drop, and I'd rather see a bit more pressure going to the turbo.

Re : oil Pressure

Cold start I’ve got 40ish or a little more and hot idle 35 ish with this shitty gauge , off the front of the head .

Hoping I can solve some of this soon .
But there are two main issues I’m fighting at the moment .

The first issue is I can’t get the car to idle under like 1100 rpm at best but usually it’s like 1300 when warm . This is a new issue since swapping injectors so I don’t know I maybe messed up some settings.


The second issue is that I am not really getting a reading on the TPS initially when I pushe the throttle pedal . So I’m going to try and sort that out before I do anything else . Also need to come up with a long term solution for attaching the cable to the TB as well.







Started by remaking this bracket so the cable path is straight .





Hopefully I can sort a little bit of this out soon . As of right now I gave up before I intentionally light the car on fire.
I messed with the throttle body adjustment until I got that to where I'm happy with it. Adjusted and recalibrated like 5x.
But now I can't get the car to start when cold . It revs up to like 3K then dies immediately. with throttle I can try to keep it running but something is not right.
For reference before changing to the 1050 injectors it would cold start and idle without any issue at all.
I'm thinking that next I need to add some enrichment

This is what it looks like currently


I think it should maybe look more like this.


I

Ive said this before but this god forsaken car fights me on every step possible making a seemingly trivial small piece take days.

But this is whats up now.
I realize the warmup is really the last thing that needs to get dialed in the grand scheme of things, but by tweaking the warmup map to one that looks like what I posted above , I was able to get the car to start and idle enough to log basically a full warm-up. So that's good.

What I'm currently stumped by is I cannot get the car to idle below about 1100-1200 RPM unless I physically go out and force the TB closed a extra 1/16". even with 0 deg of timing.
Ive done all sorts of troubleshooting and adjustment to the throttle body and even tried a second throttle body and that doesn't change this.
So I'm going to take a step back before I go down that path anymore and see if there's any possible way I have air coming in anywhere downstream of the TB.
It doesn't make sense to me that the car would idle fine at 800, 900 or the set point of my choice before swapping injectors.

so Im going to try to find a way to pressurize the intake with the TB open, i'm not sure if I will be able to build any pressure that way. But maybe enough to see.

Right so I found a fix for the eBay throttle body .









Did spent much time testing but it only took one cold start to see the difference .
Tps is perfect now, Re enabled the overrun fuel cut and the “cut out” it was doing is gone . Air flow at idle is not all over the place .
So now that I have these issues fixed , I should be able to proceed with getting things smoothed out

There you go!

Quick fix for someone with your fab skills and the TB on the shelf. Glad to hear it it's working for you now. One bite at a time, is what I always tell myself.

jbrentd wrote:Quick fix for someone with your fab skills and the TB on the shelf. Glad to hear it it's working for you now. One bite at a time, is what I always tell myself.

It’s working great now . Just took it to the gas station and did some logging to so I can try and get everything in a good safe spot .

I’m already in love with the whole setup and especially the brakes . This thing is going to rip

Congrats on finding the solution!

I feel kinda dumb asking, but can't quite tell what adjustment made the difference since none of the pics are taken from the same location. I assume you cut it off and realigned, no?

PRY4SNO wrote:Congrats on finding the solution!

I feel kinda dumb asking, but can't quite tell what adjustment made the difference since none of the pics are taken from the same location. I assume you cut it off and realigned, no?

Yeah sorry... it probably wasnt real clear. I just hacked off the EBay TB flange and welded on an AAN throttle body. That wat I could use the same TPS I have and I had the parts laying around.

If I could figure out how to post short videos here I would but, here's kind of a rundown of what I was running into.

first, I could not get the car to idle below about 13-1400 RPM when hot . With the throttle body sitting on the stop there was still too much air coming in. I could back out the stop screw but the TB spring is not strong enough to force it closed any more so I would have to get out of the car, pop the hood and force it closed by hand to bring the idle down.

A separate but somewhat issue was I could not get the TPS to read right , no matter how many times I re-clocked then recalibrated it, It would start at zero tbut when pushing the pedal down it would travel a good 3/4 inch or so before it would start to read, then it would go like 1, 7, 10. So the issue that was causing is I would have to disable the "overrun fuel cut" because with the throttle body not reading any % throttle , as soon as you add throttle to bring the rpms up VEMS cuts the injectors because it thinks its in decel. (at least this is what I think was happening) I could just disable that feature but I think it will really help with drivability down the road.

The third issue was that with the weak spring every time I let off the gas the TB may come to a slightly different position which although extremely small deviation , maybe a few degrees, it still equals a shitload of air and is enough to totally throw off the tuning because the TB is just a big 70MM butterfly with no ramp at all. its like more open/closed.

Typically when I'm having any issue, I assume that I did something wrong first. So first I redid the cable setup to make the path straight and also to ensure that there wasn't extra force fighting the spring, went to the hardware store to see if I could get more springs, which I did find but I would have to weld attachment points to the TB for an additional spring. Then I double, triple and quadruple checked for vacuum leaks, capped the brake booster line, removed the fuel rail to ensure that I didn't screw up one of the O-rings or have a leak on the lower injector O-ring. Talked to Sam a little and re recommended a few things which were great Ideas (reducing timing at idle, check for O-ring leaks) but after doing those things it still seemed like there was just too much air coming in, and that this Ebay TB was going to create some drivability issues with its On - off nature and TPS issues. So I decided to hack it off and weld on the one AAN unit that I had laying around. I saw that if I Oval out the holes on the AAN TB, I could use 3 of the 4 existing bolt holes from the EBay throttle body flange but I decided to just hack it off and do an AAN flange. I had already cut up an AAN intake long ago with plans of making a custom one so the flange was ready to go.

That's an awesome way to adapt and overcome. Well done.

Out of curiosity, why did you want to use an eBay throttle body in the first place?

Post some videos when you get a chance!!


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FFF wrote:Post some videos when you get a chance!!


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I took one .. I gotta get a few things sorted out before I can really do a good rip or add any boost. Just working on the tune solo is difficult because I can’t adjust anything while driving , what a pain in the ass. I probably will have to have someone legit look at the logs and advice before I go much further.
https://www.youtube.com/embed/CraveoL_3Jk
I took the car out tonight and cruised around a little, did some logging.
The other day I noticed The brakes are pretty loud and I was trying to get the new rotors heated up a little ... also working on adjusting this tilton brake bias valve I have , the first hard stop was a little surprising to say the least when the rear locked up first . I’m still not satisfied with that as it keeps wanting to lock up the rears which gets interesting in the rain.

Installed the passenger seat and made a little bracket for the ECU . There were two pre existing holes under the heater box that I was able to use so I didn’t have to do any drilling . Just made a quick bracket from a piece of aluminum scrap .






I still haven’t swapped the door panels to black and I’m missing some of the interior pieces . But that stuff is kind of second priority , ha.

Ordered a shift knob and some rs2 headlight connectors from Force 5 so I can get those installed soon . Will need a better steering wheel soon.

Sounds really good. What are you shooting for, performance wise?


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Nice Work! I have read thru all the post a few times now & enjoyed the progression of your B4 project.
Here is a picture of my B4 I picked up last summer.

A1QSHIP wrote:Nice Work! I have read thru all the post a few times now & enjoyed the progression of your B4 project.
Here is a picture of my B4 I picked up last summer.

Oh shoot .... hey that might be my friends old car! Did it come with ATS type 10’s on it ? From the west coast ?

jbrentd wrote:Sounds really good. What are you shooting for, performance wise?


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I’m Not 100% sure I guess where it will end up power wise but I don’t necessarily have a specific goal .

I guess my goals for now , off the top of my head, are :

First , to get everything sorted so it’s running, driving, braking, handling well...

Sort any issues that arise on the way there

Replace ball joints, get an alignment ,

Get some help and get the tune smoothed out

Enable the VVT ?

Replace headlights w/RS2 (shipped)

I left a lot of room when I made the header in case the turbo needs to upsize or anything like that .

I just paid another large amount to Issam for an RS3 crank pulley , Mahle pistons , Rods , ARP hardware , and I’ll need to figure out what else I need to build a solid engine that I can really throw some boost at .

Afterthought wrote:

A1QSHIP wrote:Nice Work! I have read thru all the post a few times now & enjoyed the progression of your B4 project.
Here is a picture of my B4 I picked up last summer.

Oh shoot .... hey that might be my friends old car! Did it come with ATS type 10’s on it ? From the west coast ?

Bought from a guy in Orlando, FL who got it from someone in Utah. It came with the wheels shown.
I'm wishing that they were 5-lug now but that swap is soon to come.

Awesome progress!!