The Project Pad

Anything changing with the engine "while you're in there"? Or basically keeping it the same but hopefully addressing the thrust bearing issue? Going to use TTRS style?

Having the crank tapped for another 5 bolts. And then I'll probably run 11 of the dsg flywheel bolts. They are compact triple square.

Jim, can you explain a bit more about the oiling problems? Is it basically the heavy pressure plate requires so much force that it pushes the crank and closes off oil supply to the rod bearings? Are you adding bolts onto the crank to address the flywheel loosening issue or will that somehow help with what just happened?

Sorry for all the questions, just very curious. I'm guessing 400-450whp (and appropriate clutch/pp) wouldn't be enough to create a lot of the issues you've run into but good to know what happens when you start making serious power.

It's hard to say what happened, but here is my theory. I reused the oil pump from my first motor that had the flywheel come loose.

That oil pump saw some metal bearing material no doubt.

The second motor was only around 2 bar oil pressure when hot. Maybe even slightly less. Probably due to the compromised oil pump.

So that along with the stiff clutch spun the single thrust bearing.

The extra flywheel bolts are because the pins didn't exactly work great either. One of the pins backed out and the bolts were not as tight as I left them.

Sorry to see you have trouble again.

Cool cage, though.

So no changes to the thrust bearing setup then? Hoping it's just a byproduct of the oil and clutch? Do you have any sort of timeline for when you want engine #3 back up and running? And are you gonna keep the single disc setup for the clutch? The flywheel bolts backing out is definitely concerning.

So many questions! Sorry haha.

Nah, sorry I have posted about this in so many places, I forgot to mention I am going to add an AAN thrust bearing in the main cap. My machinist has yet to do it, but he said it shouldn't be a problem.

I also bought a new Clutchmasters Super Single 850 hoping it would have a less heavy pedal than my Southbend PP, but it's almost identical. So I'll probably have the original setup for sale if anyone is interested in an almost half price clutch.

Ah yeah I'm not on the ol' Facebook so I probably miss a lot of stuff. Thanks for the update! Hopefully with all these adjustments you'll have a nice healthy engine

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hCIZny5uc4Q

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hCIZny5uc4Q[/youtube]

That guy is awesome and so is this video. Is this related to your engine or is this guy also just randomly addressing the same problem?

Those are my parts

audifreakjim wrote:Those are my parts

That is pretty dang cool!

Jim, are you using the stock oil pump? I'd thought you were going to a dry sump?

Yes, still going to use the stock oil pump. I had mentioned that dry sump would be a good option to consider. The Iroz pan is nice, but expensive and I think I would think hard about putting that money towards dry sump.

audifreakjim wrote:Yes, still going to use the stock oil pump. I had mentioned that dry sump would be a good option to consider. The Iroz pan is nice, but expensive and I think I would think hard about putting that money towards dry sump.

Where would you estimate the point of diminishing returns between the IMS oil pan and a dry sump set up related to power levels?

audifreakjim wrote:Yes, still going to use the stock oil pump. I had mentioned that dry sump would be a good option to consider. The Iroz pan is nice, but expensive and I think I would think hard about putting that money towards dry sump.

So are you using a pan that you built Jim? Or the stock pan and modified subframe, or did you already have a tubular subframe?

vt10vt wrote:

audifreakjim wrote:Yes, still going to use the stock oil pump. I had mentioned that dry sump would be a good option to consider. The Iroz pan is nice, but expensive and I think I would think hard about putting that money towards dry sump.

So are you using a pan that you built Jim? Or the stock pan and modified subframe, or did you already have a tubular subframe?

It's a Hank Pan I believe

PRY4SNO wrote:

audifreakjim wrote:Yes, still going to use the stock oil pump. I had mentioned that dry sump would be a good option to consider. The Iroz pan is nice, but expensive and I think I would think hard about putting that money towards dry sump.

Where would you estimate the point of diminishing returns between the IMS oil pan and a dry sump set up related to power levels?

No real power level. The annoying part of the 07k compared to the I5 is the oil pump is not serviceable externally. So if you have any issues with it, it's a complete motor pull apart. My issue was self inflicted, but still a PITA.

Nards.

It's nice that the ur20vt had a defined level for the oil pump, 8500 rpm to make the decision.

I think if you are going to take a 2.5 up past 8500, you probably already have dry sump budget and some beefy bottom end parts

Car is back together with a new clutch, crank, bearings, oil pump, and b6 a4 01E.

Holy shit, 4th gear is arrest me now gear. I think the speedo moves faster in 4th than the tach did in first gear when the car was stock, lol

videos or it didn't happen

I didn't realize the B6 a4 had an 01E, is it a 4:11 final or did you swap rear ends as well?

You want FYF or GBY? From an early car. 4.11. They switched over at some point away from the 01E. Mine had a flexible main too. We'll see how that holds up. They seem to be an empty the parts bin combo. The ratios are awesome though.

the german wrote:videos or it didn't happen

I didn't realize the B6 a4 had an 01E, is it a 4:11 final or did you swap rear ends as well?

Agreed on the videos!

Also, the b6a4 01e was found in the manual trans 3.0 cars.

Hellllls yeah Jim! Got my hopes up it doesn't asplode all over the place again. Great to hear!