The Project Pad

derracuda wrote:i'm planning on sticking the drain in the boss above where you put yours in, in the block instead of the pan.



looks great though marc!

you cant.

starters in the way.

psshh, kick start it! wuss

HAHAHAHAHAA any other well thought out changes to be different?!!

Toxcheap wrote:HAHAHAHAHAA any other well thought out changes to be different?!!

The option I thought of if it turns out to be a problem would be to run a remote oil filter and put a 1/2 drain location in there.

20v90q wrote:Looks Great! Nice, clean install. Now when are you going to spray some degreaser on those heads/oil pans? :-)

after I get it running maybe

Seriously, I'm trying not to spend too much time on anything that isn't necessary to get the car running at this point, but it would be nice to clean up the heads a bit.

If I had remembered, I would have run them through a parts washer when I had them off :(

Alright, I spent some time at the shop today and ran into a few issues.

First, I decided to run an oil filter relocation kit so that I could get a higher drain location on the passenger side. Problem is that the oil filter on the v8 is an odd size thread, 22x2.0, I got 22x1.5 :-/

I'll probably fix that with some creative drilling and tapping, we'll see.

Anyway, more importantly I'm really concerned about the tightness of the timing belt. I could _barely_ get it on with the tensioner slacked all the way off. The belt is so tight that I can practically play a symphony with the various sounds generated by plucking each section of the belt.

I also still dont completely get the proper procedure for evening out the tension. I removed the cam pulleys so that they ride freely on the cam nose. I assume you just rock the crank back and forth until the tension evens out? Obviously you cant just rotate the crank around a few times while holding the camshafts fixed as interference would occur..

Nate, how tight was the belt on your stacked gasket setup? Something definitely seems 'wrong'.

a4kquattro wrote:I also still dont completely get the proper procedure for evening out the tension. I removed the cam pulleys so that they ride freely on the cam nose. I assume you just rock the crank back and forth until the tension evens out? Obviously you cant just rotate the crank around a few times while holding the camshafts fixed as interference would occur..

Nate, how tight was the belt on your stacked gasket setup? Something definitely seems 'wrong'.

It's been a while since I did a V8 but I'm pretty sure I had the crank locked the entire time! Once you release the tensioner the belt should even right out.

the belt was hard as hell to get on the 16vt, and when i helped a buddy do his 1.8T it was tight as hell too. both were pretty damn tight without even tensioning the tensioner.......and they were good to go

Marc, These pics are huge so you should be able to see them.
These are the last 2 pages of the timing belt procedure. Let me know if you want me to send anymore.

Attachment ( 4648 ) : timing belt.jpg


Attachment ( 4647 ) : timing belt pic2.jpg

Aha! Thanks Ron (got your call by the way, I was watching Wayne Brady in Lowell when you called). As always a picture is worth a thousand words. The bit I missed was the eccentric idler roller. I never touched it during the belt procedure. Woops!

a few pics from today for good measure.. Here's the new location for my turbo drain. Now I just need to get the oil filter relocation module to thread on..



V8 crankcase ventilation 'girdle'



I had to remove that to plug one end of it (the side that faces the throttle body). Anybody got a 22mmx2.0 tap I can borrow (its either that or 1.75, I need to double check tomorrow)

Marc,

Hit me with an email on sunday (when the crackberry and I will be in the garage) during the day. For some reason I think I have a 22mm tap. Could ship it out and have you send it back later.

-Dave

A bit more progress today, fabricated a cross member for the radiator. Tried to test fit the intercooler, and damnit Derek, you're right, it doesn't fit :(

Correction.. I _could_ make the FMIC fit, but it would require cutting the bumper and altering the exterior appearance which I didn't really want to do. It fit with no fans attached, but obviously thats not very helpful :tard:

So at this point I'm going to go with dual side mount intercoolers. The ducts are pretty big in the bumper and theres lots of space over on the sides.

:pics:



I also fabricated a quick tool to set the timing on the v8 after discovering how to properly tension the belt. Basically this tool just allows me to adjust the cams then tension the belt and finally secure the cam bolt




So now the timing is set spot on, just need to finish mounting the radiator and probably move around the outlet on the passenger side of the radiator, go with a 90 degree fitting for easy hose routing.

Dennis is working on his UrQ in the garage bay next door, so I offered to haul his suspension bits over to the sand blasting shop with some other stuff I need to have done.. yep, thats pretty much an entire urQ suspesion in the wagon:





Turbos should be here Tuesday :woowoo:

a4kquattro wrote:



Turbos should be here Tuesday :woowoo:

Someone needs a sandblaster.

takes too long and makes too big a mess. Let somebody else do teh dirty work.

bummer about the IC :(


looks good otherwise

a4kquattro wrote:takes too long and makes too big a mess. Let somebody else do teh dirty work.

I know someone who does stuff like that and may be up in your area next weekend. :wink: BTW that coal slag is sweet. :thanks:

Cool! Well, if you really want to blast all these parts I'm not going to stop you


Now, onto another project related question.

As I mentioned before the audi v8 uses a wierd thread size for the oil filter, which is making my life difficult with regards to using an oil filter relocation adapter. The thread size is 22x2.0 and it seems just about impossible to get a tap in that size, mcmaster carr and msc industrial dont carry it.

So my next thought is to simply change the thread size on the filter end of the threaded adapter. I'm thinking the best way to go about this is to buy one of those things new from the dealer and re-thread the bottom half of the threads. I've never tried to take one out of the oil filter housing assembly so I dont know how difficult it might be. Anyone?

Also, I'm wondering how I'll go about threading it in without damaging the threads on the bottom?..

Marc, What me to see if the Snap On guy has the right tap? He stops by the shop tomorrow. LMK

gidrew wrote:Marc, What me to see if the Snap On guy has the right tap? He stops by the shop tomorrow. LMK

Sure.

I'd be extremely surprised if he's got it, but its worth a chedk! Thanks!

So you just need a 22x2.0 tap? No die or anything? If he has it on the truck, i'll get it, if he has to order it, do you still want it? I know snap-on has them, just dont know if its on my guys truck.

gidrew wrote:So you just need a 22x2.0 tap? No die or anything? If he has it on the truck, i'll get it, if he has to order it, do you still want it? I know snap-on has them, just dont know if its on my guys truck.

If he's got both, I'll take em. Should be under $50 for the pair, ya?

a4kquattro wrote:yep, thats pretty much an entire urQ suspesion in the wagon:

you're missing the top spring seats :bashtard:

Corey wrote:you're missing the top spring seats :bashtard:

bah, you can't see those too easily anyway :-P

looks awsome marc. when are you going to be at the shop again? got to run back the tap and that would be a perfect time to check out the project and get some audi talk going ( which i dont really get in my day to day life anymore :( )