The Project Pad

Sounds like a good idea, give everything the once over while your in there.

going scat or ie?

Honestly, I would hold your horses and save the $500 and 2 weeks of your life you'd spend on a halfass rebuild now, and put it towards your crazy project later.

Sam

Well, I have to pull the motor to do the steering rack and tranny install anyway and once the engine is out I can do the quickie rebuild in a few enjoyable (for me) hours. Does that make it make more sense (I.E. not a waste of time) to you Sam? I think its pretty justifiable.

Jonathan, I'll tell you more about my rod choice when the time comes.

I would say thats a good way to go. Are you planning on doing main bearings and main studs? Honestly, it doesnt sound that that dirty of a rebuild. Just re-crosshatch the cylinders to seat some new rings, head studs and thoroughly clean the deck and head surface, main and rod bears with studs, and leave the head and dry sump for later. If your plans are to keep the stock pistons, you dont need to bore it, just hone. So there you have the bottom end built to handle +600whp and all you need to do is pull the head off do the other work. The only thing i would add is balancing, but you already you werent gonna do that

Just my $.02

Yeah Jon, that sounds about right. Only thing I don't think I'm going to do is main studs and bearings... I really don't think they are necessary at this point (the studs especially). I will take any input on that opinion though. This would just be until sometime in the next year when I open it up again and o-ring, do all new main stuff, and balance the rotating assembly (pistons, rods, and crank only I think?). Also, the next time I open it up I think I'm going to ditch the ARP2000's that I'll use this time for some 625's (probably just for the head and maybe rods).

loxxrider wrote:Also, the next time I open it up I think I'm going to ditch the ARP2000's that I'll use this time for some 625's (probably just for the head and maybe rods).

baby steps...theres nothing wrong with them till you start running nuclear strength power.

Thats kinda the quickie rebuild I did when I bent a rod in my 200, I just wanted to get it back on the road quickly. I did freshen the head with new valve guides, no more oil consumption, and the car has been running great!

FWIW...Steering rack is totally doable with engine in, not that bad really, I did it with the struts out though... :wink:

tbar wrote:Thats kinda the quickie rebuild I did when I bent a rod in my 200, I just wanted to get it back on the road quickly. I did freshen the head with new valve guides, no more oil consumption, and the car has been running great!

FWIW...Steering rack is totally doable with engine in, not that bad really, I did it with the struts out though... :wink:

Yes, but it is a good excuse to get to the pull engine and do a rebuild. Because i does make it a little easier

jcarrick wrote:Yes, but it is a good excuse to get to the pull engine and do a rebuild. Because i does make it a little easier

I pulled the motor in my 200 for the full motor build because the valve cover gasket had gone bad

lol I love our motor build excuses

loxxrider wrote:lol I love our motor build excuses

HAHA Me too man. BTW: I think your "dirty" engine build sounds a lot like what I am doing. I can dig it!

Good stuff, glad it doesn't sound too ghetto for most here

So somehow everyone who is anyone was out of stainless 3" vbands last week. I decided to get an ebay special stainless one for half price. My buddy has been using them a lot recently and says they've all worked out fine. I ordered on the second and it came on the fourth! I was expecting to not even get it in time to modify my downpipe with it this week, but I put some faith in ebay and it worked this time lol.

Its a pretty basic piece. Certainly not anything like the ones I've paid double or triple the price for, but hey...its gonna get the job done. I also got a tight radius 1.5" bend from Columbia River Mandrel Bending. They 2 day aired it for pretty cheap and it came in one day. The last piece of the puzzle to this dp mod and wastegate reroute is one of those vibrant motorsports flex bellow sections. NOONE HAS THEM IN STOCK! I called all over the country trying to get one here. I think I might just do the vband this week and mig up the little reroute section whenever I can get that piece. ORRR I have this 2" ss mesh type flex section I could use, but I'd have to step the 1.5" up to 2" and then back down again lol. As always, better ideas are welcome.

Two little things...

*Odometer* stopped working the other day on the trip back up to school. Its at 182,049 I believe. I think I've put about 500-600 miles on it since that happened. I assume the gears stripped or something, I dunno.

Also on the way back to school, I was getting it on an on-ramp and I hit the rev limiter way before I expected to. I was like, "WTF? Why did it stop!?!?" I guess 7800 just isn't enough anymore. It seriously feels like its just getting started. Dry sump is coming because I know 8500 isn't going to be enough either

Like usual, the car feels so slow in the heat compared to in the cold. Its been between 80 and 60 in the past few weeks and as soon as it dips below 65 the thing is like a rocket-ship. I gotta get meth or somethin (and a better IAT which is coming soon).

Oh, and I didn't get a chance to make the dump tube re-route. Some other time I spose.

So does your speedo work, or is it just the odometer that stopped working?

Ha, i dont have to worry about that not having power cuz its hot. Its been like 40 all this month. Are you going to go with the 1.8t iat? And have you heard of Snow Performance at all?

Yes, I will be using 1.8t IAT. I already have it in fact. Just waiting on the new mani to install it in. Yep, heard of snow. I have installed a Devil's Own kit and I have to say it was a POS. I would hope the snow one is better.

Speedo does work fine. lol just noticed the typo, i meant to write odo.

I have heard good reviews on Snow, but i dont have any experience with them. Im considering one for the S4.

Will the 1.8T IAT not fit in the stock placement?

It won't fit without some modification, but its easily done on the 3b or AAN manifold.

Also, there is a resistor that needs to be taken out in the VEMS since the sensor is changing between PTC and NTC in the upgrade. (different ways of measuring the temperature)

Yes, i am very aware of PTC and NTC. Maybe i will talk to Marc about doing this when i pull the motor

Chris, would you recommend me to use the 1.8t IAT? I usually run in hot weather here.

However, its been freakish cold here the last 2 days.
Normally its 30-33C here. It dropped to 17-20C in a few hours last Wednesday.

I'd only recommend running one if you are running a standalone. Don't think a stock ECU would like it much. The stock 3b (not sure about the AAN) MAT sensor just plain sucks in terms of fidelity.

loxxrider wrote:I'd only recommend running one if you are running a standalone. Don't think a stock ECU would like it much. The stock 3b (not sure about the AAN) MAT sensor just plain sucks in terms of fidelity.

OK.
The current MAT (Mass Air Temp. sensor) is working.

btw, did you get my email with the spark plug pics?

Not recently? My yahoo e-mail has really been acting up. I haven't been able to compose any messages at all on it in the past few days. My gmail works much better. cwgregg @gmail

When are you gettin those wheels on?! They look sharps!

I'd like it to be as soon as possible, but I need a press to get the centers out so I can refinish the lips and paint/powdercoat the centers. They are corroded in there so badly that a sledge won't knock them out (because of the magnesium oxidation). Also, I don't think I'll have much money to dump into them when I need to buy an 01E and build my bottom end this summer