The Project Pad

Ben, those are basically just v-bands. They are fine but a bit of a pain compared to the Hargetts where you just need two fingers to install and remove them.

Yep Jonathan...it does get old. I was planning on doing it over spring break, but now that I have a turbo for my future setup, it seems like a major waste. Regardless of the turbo setup, I want to have the ability to have it open or re-routed on command

My attempt at getting better turbo sound = fail. D90 and GoPro both SUCK at high frequency sounds. Also, my wastegate just really doesn't help at all.


Link to video

So I did clean my catch can the other day. It was indeed full...oops. I also installed these fitting to make a nice little neck-down to -3. First pic is the regular -4 opening. Second one is how small it necks down to for adaptation to -3.





I did a little test fitting today. I still can't get the front speedline apart from the lip. I need a press. I'm going to switch the faces on them front to rear. The fronts need the higher offset of the rears to be sucked in a few mm's and the rears need to come out a few mm's, so the lower offset front faces will go on the rear to correct that. Should be FLUSH then. I still don't know if I want to run them because this car really needs 18's. I can't get the car all the way low when its jacked up, but its clearly too high. Should be getting those strut mounts machined soon. I have high hopes





Brakes look good behind these wheels





and finally one semi-side shot



This car is definitely made for 5-spokes. Just needs a LOT of work to look really good on these.

Chris, the video still sounds alright, although your WG is way to loud though to really enjoy the 5cyl goodness... and dude... those wheels look AMAZING! I love them! I can't wait to see it one the ground with them.

Thank ya. I can't wait to have some kind of stance again. One of these days I'll get it all figured out

where did you get the adapters for the BMW rims? I love the look of those speedlines on your car, they look great, hope you can get them to work.

Thanks, me too. I got the adapters from Bear (another MG'er). I'm not sure where he got them though. Most any shop that makes adapters should be able to do that though.

Those wheels are perfect man... Run the 17's and love em! Interesting point about switching faces - I never thought of that.... I might have to try that! Love my car's stance but the rear wheels are waaaay outside the fender... And running a 225 on a 10.5" wheel is kind of shameful

Man I wanna go try it now! Haha


.... Not to mention I'd get eaten alive at Carlisle for it

I dunno, I still want yours. I'd be more than happy to take shit at Carlisle for poking lol.

Woaah it sounds insane in that fly by. like in a good way.

good work

Also about wanting 18s for the car, you know that you can go way lower on smaller wheels. those speedlines polished up nice with the spacers will be perfect.

Way lower yes, but that also means more gap between wheel and fender. All hope is not lost though! I still have faith in my strut mounts to get it low enough.

Also, people have been saying my turbo is surging badly after listening to my videos. My wastegate sounds like that because of the PWM settings I have in there to control boost. If I look at boost on a log or on my gauge its nice and smooth, so I'm 99% sure that sound isn't surging...especially since it sounded like that on my stock turbo too.

Hey - I would rather have 17's and plus yours arent chrome. I hate thy mine are chrome. I'd like them to have machined lips with pearl white centers. I don't want to know how much removing chrome costs....

You have a perfect set of wheels there - enjoy!

Casey, I got the light today thanks.

I'm attempting to remove the glass from the housing with no luck at all. I've done it before on other lights, but these aren't the same. The stuff holding the light to the housing is not like silicone which gets more viscous as it gets hot. I can't even get this crap nice and gooey using a torch! Anyone ever do this with any luck?

I just used a blow dryer on my 4kq (of course removing the side clips as well).

hmm well that doesn't seem to be working at all

these lenses don't have side clips or anything

those stock lenses are bonded pretty well.... not sure that glue will come undone. The euro lights come apart very nicely with just the clips and a little encouragement (since it's just a rubber gasket and no adhesive).

Are you trying to get the glass off to try polishing it/install some projectors? Might be easier just to use a band saw.. Just for the sake of R&D 8)

yes, that's what I'm attempting to do and bandsaw was my next step lol. After that, polishing the glass is my next hurdle...I know that won't be quite like polishing anything else. Ideas on that?

Where your headlights are actual glass instead of the plastic they use on new cars, personally I'd just use regular glass polish. Also a big factor, how pitted is the lenses and what not? If bad I'd get a glass sanding disc and go to town on it, then polish. If it isn't to bad, I'd imagine just a regular glass polish would work man.

This is what my parents use GlasRenu for mirrors, I don't see why it wouldn't work on headlights...


Link to video

Well its not that there are pitts or scratches in the glass, its that there are these large raised ridges in it that scatter light a lot (from the factory). A LOT of material has to be removed to get it smooth. So the question is, what kind of abrasive material is used to do something like this? I don't think regular metal/wood sanding techniques will fare well. I assume they use some kind of diamond abrasive.

Didn't somebody post about how to do it a while back?

Yup, you got it! Your going to need a diamond sanding block. Maybe somthing like this?

http://www.slumpys.com/SlumpysStore/pro ... H0VGH.aspx

Edit:

Ok WIN! SO Chris, if I was you I'd use the sanding block first to get the ridges down, then move use a cerium oxide glass polishing compound to make that sucker like new!

Lots of good info here:
http://www.warmglass.com/glass_polishing.htm

Cerium Oxide powder:

http://www.amazon.com/CRL-Cerium-Oxide- ... sbs_auto_1

ugh thats not cheap and the fact that I'd need to go much lower than 220 grit is rather off putting. Yeah PITA is right, but I don't see any better options other than putting some rally lights on the front!

Ed, I have no idea but I do know some have tried it...and many have failed.

I just edited my above post man, check it out!

SUH-WEEET

So it looks like you can use regular sandpaper, you just have to go slowly and I'm sure it wears the paper out rather quickly. Thank you, I'll be using this information as soon as I can get a bandsaw through this thing!

No problem man!

Kinda update time.

I have a solid plan set in stone for this summer, but first I have a plan for next week.

Currently, in order to remove my downpipe, a lift is required. If all goes well, I will be adding a v-band to my downpipe on Monday. I also plan to re-route my wastegate on Monday so I can hear my Holset better and not have the police pull me over every time I get on it.

For the summer, I plan to do a quick and dirty rebuild of the bottom end with rods of course. I plan to just open her up and throw the rods in while replacing rod bearings of course and probably piston rings too unless they look really good... and a head gasket. I'll also put my Hank mani on at that point as well I'm sure. Thats it though... no balance, no decking, no nothing. Just a dirt nasty build that will last me until next year when I do (hopefully) solid lifter, dry sump, probably balance the rotating assembly, etc.

Also, the even more important goal for the summer is to get an 01E fitted along with a nice southbend clutch.

All thoughts/criticisms welcomed.