Kevin's 200 20v

[Berserker]

Nice digits on the dash.
What's that at the autocheck display?

Radio station. 93.1 FM2, preset 1.

[loxxrider]

The hell?

[Berserker]

The hell?

What Kevin's autocheck is displaying below is that his radio is set to 93.1, the signal is in stereo, the radio is on the FM2 tuner, and it's the first preset on that tuner, all on the stock radio. Unfortunate that my original description is on the next page after the picture.

[loxxrider]

No, no... I understood what you were saying. Does the stock radio do that though? I've never had a stock one, so I guess I just didn't know it did that.

Plus, mine is usually yelling at me about some bs like my brake pads being low.

[Berserker]

Yes, stock radio does that on 200q20v and UrS cars. At least the stock radio has done that on all the 200q20vs and UrS cars I've had that have had stock radios.

[loxxrider]

Huh, that's pretty cool. I'd love to make it work again for aftermarket radios. I'd also like to make the trip computer and cruise control work on VEMS among other things. My long drives always give me ideas for t44 improvement!

[ringbearer]

I've heard some negative feedback about the coilover seller, just FYI.

Hope it works out!

Lox you're a nut

[Aktapod]

Haha, thank goodness I wasn't listening to anything embarrassing when my radio choice was scrutinized. That is a nifty little feature, and it still works even though I'm using a V8 head unit, so I imagine a stock V8 has it as well. I didn't even realize those lower numbers indicated my presets!

Loxx, I've had the same thoughts, at least regarding the trip computer. I like having it, and if you can replicate the fuel consumption signal (whatever that may be), I think it shouldn't be too much to get it to work with standalone.

[loxxrider]

Just another arduino project waiting to happen! But I think you need wheelspeed to do it or at least gps speed. So that's on the list if someone wants to do it. I have too much else going on to take it on right now, but given the time, I'd definitely do it.

[AudiSport4000]

Yes, stock radio does that on 200q20v and UrS cars. At least the stock radio has done that on all the 200q20vs and UrS cars I've had that have had stock radios.

Mine does it too, but I get TAPE since I run XM in my Lago shaggin wagon

[88a5tq]

Lol this is funny stuff Kevin
Juizer that's the radio station he's listening to I believe. Shows there when the factory head unit is still installed, correct me if I'm wrong.

[Aktapod]

Just another arduino project waiting to happen! But I think you need wheelspeed to do it or at least gps speed. So that's on the list if someone wants to do it. I have too much else going on to take it on right now, but given the time, I'd definitely do it.

Nah man, you're overthinking it! It'll be much harder to reprogram or repurpose the trip computer entirely. Unless you want something other than stock functionality, I think the best way would be to simply feed the cluster the information that goes missing when you switch to VEMS.

I'm not 100% on this, but I'm reasonably sure this is only the intake pressure and instantaneous fuel consumption information (and maybe something to indicate that the car is running?). The cluster is still receiving the speed and tank sender info independently of the ECU. If you can output this info from VEMS and use some intermediary device (Arduino project?) to convert that to something meaningful for the trip computer, it should bring the computer back online. That is, assuming everything I'm guessing is correct, which I would have to verify before further action.

[loxxrider]

Yes, that's what I was taking about. Using a something to intercept an output from vems for fuel consumption. If the wheelspeed is separate then thats great.

[Aktapod]

Ah okay, gotcha! I thought you were suggesting developing a system to run the trip computer from scratch

[loxxrider]

Oops, I didn't mean using a vems to intercept an output from vems... But you know what I mean. Yep, just need to get a fuel cons. Signal and condition it. It could be a one wire affair.

[themagellan]

Special python decoderz

[Aktapod]

I'm a bit strapped for time, but she's back on the road! I'll make another post with my thoughts and impressions soon, but I felt like this was overdue

[chaloux]

Looks great! Spacers needed to clear the wheels or for HELLA SICK STANCE BRAH!?

[themagellan]

[Aktapod]

Looks great! Spacers needed to clear the wheels or for HELLA SICK STANCE BRAH!?

Hahaha, it's something I meant to do for a while because of the high offset of my wheels, but it was expedited by how effective the brakes would have been without them.

[Aktapod]

Okay, so true to word, I will document the brake stuff... later. I need access to some pics and measurements I left at home when I started back at school. But the brakes are great! The pedal's a little mushy, so I may need to bleed them more, but if you lay into it, the car nose dives considerably!

For those who have gone the DIY coilover route, what spring rates did you run, and what are your impressions of them? I know Chris recommends 450/550 lb/in, which is what I'm favoring, but at the same time, I accept that this is no racecar. I think the perfect setup for me would be just soft enough that you could take a non-car friend on a slightly bumpy road with a few potholes and such without them noticing a harsh ride. I'm just wondering if that's possible with the recommended setup.

I'm considering ordering springs somewhere in the upper 300/lower 400 range, with an appropriately-valved damper. Any thoughts?

[loxxrider]

Yeah... That's not going to happen with the rates I recommended. What did you think of Corey's setup?

[Aktapod]

I thought Corey's was just about perfect! I could go a little stiffer, but the feel was right where I'm imagining

[loxxrider]

Corey's are 200 20v H&R springs with either Koni sport or Bilstein sport with regular valving. I found some strange information related to those spring rates... this is an old excerpt from some forum. It's odd that they quote the rates in #/in, but they are not directly comparable... I'm thinking the H&R rates are true lb/in, and the "OEM" Eibach's are not.

Capture.JPG (117.46 KiB) Viewed 50366 times

My 635csi has 375 lb/in springs in the front (which is a comparable suspension design to this car as opposed to the rear which is not). That car is more of a grand tourer, so I didn't want it super stiff, but I did want it to be sporty. I think it is a good mix of comfort and sporty, leaning a little more to the sporty side. This is something I have to consider for my avant too. I need it to be somewhat comfortable going "offroad" and on bad highways, but I also want to keep it pretty sporty. To that end, I might either just go with whatever the H&R rates are (like I said I would do earlier in this thread), or up them a bit to 300/375 F/R or something like that (so I can utilize some springs I already have).

[Aktapod]

Damn good info Chris, thank you! I'm sure a lot of this comes down to the dampers as well, but it's good to get a rough sense of what I'm trying to achieve. I'll probably order something in the 300 range, given what you posted.

Before I finalize anything, though, I'd like to get better acquainted with suspension setup and tuning, which will require reading up on some literature. That way, (hopefully) I won't be making such blind guesses with regard to part combinations! I will, as always, post my findings, if any.