Eric's '90 80QT: rustic bits

[elaw]

I think for the later production (mid '88 onward) that is true. On the earlier cars, F and R are different from each other - the fronts are the same as the F and R on later cars, but the rears are the same as on a 4KQ. I think.

[DE80q]

Interesting. The 2 im working on are both 91's so I dont really hav anything eles to compare with.

[savagerocco]

There will be a shift in track and you might have an issues finding a rotor to match. but other than that, it should work.

[elaw]

Yeah it's kind of frustrating because almost all the writeups out there assume your B3 is a 20V car which has bigger hardware in the front (wheel bearings/hubs/etc) than in the rear. It seems like on a 20v with the smaller front hardware which is the same as the rear, the same stuff used in the rear should work in the front although it gets tricky when you get to the brake rotor part.

That's why I decided to chicken out and make the front hardware on my car the same as on the CQ so I can use the same solution that's worked for others.

[DE80q]

Well that makes sence. I think that I might have to fab some adapter for my g60's but Im not sure what we are going to do for his big reds. I figure ill get mine figured and then deal with his.

[elaw]

So just a small update... this morning I finally got around to pulling apart some of the driveshafts and seeing what'll fit what.

First not-so-much revelation: the CQ front outer CV joints (the larger ones) will fit on the CQ rear driveshafts. So I think I'm set for the front.

Second: you can put the CQ rear outer CV joints (the smaller ones) onto early 4KQ rear axles so they'll mate with the UrQ rear differential... NOT! :x Maybe in an alternate universe maybe but definitely not in this one... the splines don't mate up and even if they did the joints are held on by different hardware.

So bottom line nothing in that lovely photo above is going to work in the rear of the car, at least without some cutting and welding.

Oh well, I'm halfway there...

[elaw]

Today we have a little progress... finally!

In order to make the AAN fit the 80 the way I want, major water-manifold tweaks are needed. And I am pleased to report said tweakage has occurred. What I did was take an extra AAN manifold, chop off the outlet on the front and the connection for the after-run pump (which I don't use). Then I cut a hole in it toward the back, and modded up a water outlet from a Saab to fit over it. Took it to my friendly (and cheap!) local welding guy and the result is below. It looks a bit like a 3B manifold, but the outlet is pointed more downward so it clears the AAN intake manifold.

[savagerocco]

Sweet, i was wondering what I was gonna do about the water manifold when I swap out my cut AAN manifold for my 3B intake.

[JonathanL]

Nice I had a 7a water outlet modded to fit under the aan intake on a 7a head. That is a great solution though. I never saw your 80q before super clean man.

Keep it coming

[Hanicus]

I just got the same thing from Hank!

[elaw]

Okay so another small update... this time it's an unhappiness.

I can't remember where the thread is, but there's some discussion about using an 016 transmission that came from a car with a dished flywheel (like a 4KQ) with a non-dished flywheel like the 3B FW that's on my AAN. The thinking seems to be that when making the switch, one should use the sheet-metal clutch release fork and bearing from a later 016 rather than the cast one that came on the earlier transmissions.

Now at the moment, the tranny is in my 4KTQ and working well, but the clutch engages with the pedal very high. I was hoping that was because I was using the wrong release fork (the cast one) and had bought the newer-style fork to install when I swap the engine to the 80.

I have an urquattro 016 in the garage and today I decided to try both release forks (with their corresponding release bearings) on there to see what the difference is. Bottom line: switching forks would not help my problem, it would make it worse! With the sheet metal one on there, the release bearing sits about 1/4" farther out on the release sleeve, not farther in as I'd hoped. And the bearing sitting farther out equates to the clutch engaging with the pedal higher which is the opposite of what I need. :(

[savagerocco]

Trans spacerl ill find you a part number..

[elaw]

Oh gadzooks. Maybe I'll just skip the engine swap and fill the engine compartment with $20.00 bills - it would be cheaper!

I still haven't gotten over that silly diamond-coated washer that's required for the damper pulley. I was reading a thread from a guy who diesel-converted a 100, apparently the VAG diesels have a similar washer and he had to buy one. He worked out that it cost $26,400 a pound.

Edit: just to be clear, I didn't mean anything personal or critical with the washer thing! I just can't believe they couldn't find a better solution to whatever problem they were trying to solve than that crazy $100 washer.

[savagerocco]

Honestly, it is only a spaced, flat ground. Just find one the right diameter and drill it out to size it isn't that critical. I thought it was silly too. I bought one, then didn't use it and didn't get it back from the machine shop....so, it could be worse.

[elaw]

Okay so I've got another question, we'll call this "A/C vs. AAN"...

I've been told by a helpful MG'er that the stock air conditioning hardware, specifically the accumulator and the line going from it to the evaporator, doesn't interfere with the AAN engine. But it looks to me like it will?

Here's a photo of the AAN installed in my 4KQ:

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Note the silver stud with the slotted head right in the middle of the photo, that's my point of reference. It's the mounting point for the airbox.

Now look at this photo of the same area on the 80:

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It's hard to see, but the gray thing coming from the left just above the middle and with the right-hand end covered in tinfoil is the A/C line. For position reference, note the airbox mounting point right in the middle of the photo.

It looks to me like that A/C line wants to occupy the same space as the turbocharger... am I missing something?

Top

[savagerocco]

That ac line normally goes through the fender well and comes out below the frame ..not sure what has been done to your setups.

[elaw]

Huh... that's weird. Maybe a CQ vs. sedan difference, or a 20v vs. 20V difference? The line definitely looks stock. Actually looking in ETKA it looks like a 20V thing... they call for a different line and a different accumulator when the car has the 7A engine.

[elaw]

So today I give you... the Megasquirt "plug and play" kit for Audi 80 with AAN engine:

Okay so maybe it requires a lot of "plugging"...

But seriously... that's pretty much the entire MS electronics in that box. The coolest thing is I was able to get the harness out of the 4K without cutting it, so it's intact! I was *not* looking forward to having to cut that thing then splice it back together in the new car.

[my2000apb DrBeastCar]

i have a trans spacer if you need one

[elaw]

Cool! How much do you want for it?

Also, how thick is it? It doesn't seem to me that much spacing should be required, as the setup is more-or-less working now. I've seen some references here to spacers that are like 5/8" thick, that seems like it would be way too much?

[my2000apb DrBeastCar]

um i dunno
its from an expensive car b5 s4

its probly 8 or 10mm thick, im still searching at work, i can measure it at home tonight

they are all over ebay for 55-75

hows 50 shipped if it works, pending exact thickness measurement

[elaw]

And it's got the right layout for an 016+AAN? Seems like most of the ebay ones are from V6s, not sure if the bolts are in the same places.

$50 works for me if it's the right part!

[my2000apb DrBeastCar]

And it's got the right layout for an 016+AAN? Seems like most of the ebay ones are from V6s, not sure if the bolts are in the same places.

$50 works for me if it's the right part!

not absolutley sure
ill get a pic tonight, i asked on QW b5 s4 about thickness, i assume someone will chime in soon.

[savagerocco]

That might be... They are the same on my coupe and my sedan, but the sedan is a 20v. If yours is a 20v, that may be how they come..

[my2000apb DrBeastCar]

its 11.5mm thick