The Project Pad

a_CQ wrote:Hap, funny you should chime in, but the SSRs I have, I actually bought from you;-)

I have a set of SSRs which also came from Hap, that means he's had at *least* 4 sets of them...I think he REALLY likes these wheels

EDIGREG wrote:

a_CQ wrote:Hap, funny you should chime in, but the SSRs I have, I actually bought from you;-)

I have a set of SSRs which also came from Hap, that means he's had at *least* 4 sets of them...I think he REALLY likes these wheels

Almost but not quite Edi G. The 2 sets that were on the Monster were 17s. Yours is a set I bought for the Monster but they turned out not to be 18x9.5s as the seller advertised but the actual 18x8.5s. He was very apologetic and made it right price wise and I passed them along to the BABS. So that means that I've actually owned 5 sets.

Hap, with some kind of SSR lubs near Everboost, Maguire

I will not re-drill/insert again. Rotiform fvcked up my wheels twice, the first time with a re-drill that was essentially ovaling the holes. I didn't notice until I torqued the studs down and noticed they were bending outwards towards the outside of the wheel. I took the wheels back and demanded they put the proper inserts in. They did but they still are not perfect, a few of them are off of the bolt pattern just slightly.

So I am still running wobble nuts after all of that... They work great actually, once torqued down, they rarely need a re-torque. There is nothing that can fail, I don't see what peoples hang-up is.

Peter - I didn't see them fail. Heck, I didn't even see them first-hand, but the whole concept is not reassuring to me. Call me close-minded or whatever, but I won't be the one to see them fail.

Hap - I bought the track set, for the lesser cost, but even those were mint in my book=)

Jimmy, it's good to hear they work for you. I'll still refuse to use them. Are they open-end or closed? Some pictures I just googled of the nuts show them as closed end, which also would limit my use.

they are TUV approved so a much higher standard than most of the stuff that people "upgrade" their cars with.

I knew this as well. Still...I'm happy with my 5x112 for now.

a_CQ wrote:Peter - I didn't see them fail. Heck, I didn't even see them first-hand, but the whole concept is not reassuring to me. Call me close-minded or whatever, but I won't be the one to see them fail.

Hap - I bought the track set, for the lesser cost, but even those were mint in my book=)

Jimmy, it's good to hear they work for you. I'll still refuse to use them. Are they open-end or closed? Some pictures I just googled of the nuts show them as closed end, which also would limit my use.

They are closed, but I drilled the caps on mine, so now they are open

Not much of an update, but more of a record for the thread.

I finally took a second today to take apart the 016 before I tossed it. I didn't waste too much time with it, as I did know it was junk like hte other 016 boxes, but here is the carnage of the 016 torsen box before I went 01e..





I wish I had more time to work on the ol car. I have just been beating on it and it likes it. I took it out for a track night the other day and put in a dozen laps or so. It didn't really complain at all. I have some 1600cc FIC injectors on the shelf from Marc, but just no time to put them in and retune. I gotta figure out my communications issues as well. Does anyone think that the HO coils in my rain tray above my ECU is giving the com fits to my ECU? I can log for hours at cruise, but as asoon as I go WOT, the communications is lost. It is frustrating as hell.

The only real maintenance that I have done is put in a 6 speed out of a s4 and fixed the linkage for a more positive throw. I am finally happy with the shifting, and the shorter 4th and 5th are nice in addition to the slight drop in freeway speeds. Big thanks to Dave for helping me get it back in. I took it out in 1.5 hours, fixed linkage for 1 hour and then put it back in in about 1.5 hours. I swapped the trans in anticipation of pulling the whole drivetrain soon for the new motor. I wanted to see how the transmission felt so I could make any repairs if needed.

ShavedQuattro wrote:...Does anyone think that the HO coils in my rain tray above my ECU is giving the com fits to my ECU? I can log for hours at cruise, but as asoon as I go WOT, the communications is lost. It is frustrating as hell...

I have been wondering if I'm having the same problem. When I was at the dyno last month there was a lot of EMF interference with the dyno's computer/monitor, and I have been losing communication too. Have to restart the laptop each time.
The dyno operator said they have had issues with excessive EMF from high output coils. The simple solution they use is put aluminum foil over the coils. Said it works every time. Unfortunately I didn't get to try it due to spark plug wire issues (arcing).

You guys could try reducing dwell, and/or getting a better serial cable with some good shielding on it.

audifreakjim wrote:You guys could try reducing dwell, and/or getting a better serial cable with some good shielding on it.

What I recently discovered is to put the USB converter at the laptop and run a shielded serial cable.
Comm drop and USB driver failure problem went away for me.

good suggestion Jared. do you have a cable and converter of choice? I would pay good money for one. my last cheap one ended up costing me 75$ in dyno time.


Jim, you mean reduce power? less bondo and glass work my friend.

Tried 2 cables with no luck, finally just bought a $100 laptop with proper serial port..

They don't make those anymore.. :frustrated:

OT, but for what its worth:

Dell Latitude D520 and D630 (I believe) are circa 2007 Core2 Duo Intel machines that will support 4g of ram and have native serial ports... we use these at my work as we're a telco provider and we need the console cables to connect to routers.

I have a D520... but I think some of the other guys have a slightly up-rated D630

ShavedQuattro wrote:good suggestion Jared. do you have a cable and converter of choice? I would pay good money for one. my last cheap one ended up costing me 75$ in dyno time.


Jim, you mean reduce power? less bondo and glass work my friend.

I bought some cheap USB converters years ago at Frys, they have served me very well.

The brand escapes me but they use the FTDI USB chip and driver which I consider the better of the converter hardware out there.

I initially ran a USB extender cable and mounted the converter to the ECUs 9 pin connector, but after having coil driver EMI cause intermittent com loss and USB driver errors which would cause the program to crash and even lock the computer up, I just plugged the USB converter direct to the USB port in the laptop and ran a 10 foot 9 pin serial cable.
Nothing magic about the cable except keeping the EMI off the USB link seems to keep everything happy so I can tune.

Resistored plugs always take care of the EMF for me. FR5DTC is the Bosch code, only problem is that they're sometimes a bit cold. The BKR7Es are resistored as well, but those never worked very well for me--no serial issues, just misfires.

Sam

These USB dropout issues usually are due to excessive dwell or solid wires/solid core plugs.

In my case, I am running a "hybrid" setup where the ECU is running ignition and I am still running webers.
The transition mixture is weak and it takes a LOT of dwell to light off the mixture and keep the plugs from fouling.

Not a problem you would have with an injected motor, nor one I will have for much longer.

FWIW, i use this serial to USB adapter and random serial cable from Staples...long-ish serial cable.

I had some conectivity issues sometimes but don't recall any when logging.

http://www.google.com/products/catalog? ... os=sellers

went thrugh youre project. It looks nice. keep it up

when you had the dyno session did you mejure bacpressure in the em and temp out of the compressor?
i am a bit qurius just

zlobo wrote:went thrugh youre project. It looks nice. keep it up

when you had the dyno session did you mejure bacpressure in the em and temp out of the compressor?
i am a bit qurius just

Thanks for the kind words Zlobo. Your projects are very nice, so it means a lot from you.

I did not measure efficiency at all that last dyno session. I would like to though. I do not think I will be back on the dyno with this motor, but I will go back with the 2.6L version. When I do that, I will make provisions to make measurements on the header and compressor to see what is the weak link now. My gut tells me that the compressor is the weak link. Garrett typically has fairly large turbines to match their compressors on the GT series. Forced Performance sells a hta3586r that is 4mm larger on the compressor than my hta3582r. The Evo crowd is able to get almost identical spool, with another 50-70hp increase in power on .82AR exhaust housings. This leads me to believe that the exhaust is not choked at all, but the compressor is.

come on hank, 1.06 hta3586!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1

He has to wait until after vegas so I don't walk away from him in 4th gear again

audifreakjim wrote:He has to wait until after vegas so I don't walk away from him in 4th gear again

oh snap!!!!!!!!!!

audifreakjim wrote:He has to wait until after vegas so I don't walk away from him in 4th gear again

Rut row smack being talked here!!!

Yeah, Jim, this year ill have a 6 speed with the shorter 4th that you had. good freaking luck.

The 1.06 housing just makes for a later powetband. Who guys have shown no increase in top end with h