The Project Pad

Well great news! After letting the car sit for 2 full days without touching it, I went to the car and low and behold...FULL POWAH!!! The really funny thing is the damn car started IMMEDIATELY on the first turn of the key as if it was running 10 seconds before that.

I'm wondering if the touchy battery ground was part of the hard starting problem in the beginning.

Well put the interior wiring back together today (minus the fried door lock). Car runs, warms up, and restarts normally FINALLY. I'm wondering now if I should buy my welder first before fixing the exhaust leak so I can build a nice header and downpipe combination. Then again, I need to buy VEMS too first. Oye, decisions.

As of right now I've decided to keep the urq intake components as they have become harder to find compared to when I was doing my swap originally. Who knows, I may want to do a 20vt swap in the future with CIS. You would think I'd learn my lesson the first time.

Nice! Feels good man.exe

As much as you want a TIG welder, do you need one right now? They are handy to have when you are doing a lot of different thing, but for most of what I have seen you working on a MIG welder should be just fine. I would just invest in a shield gas setup, and get away from the flux core wire.

You can get a decent TIG setup for about the same money as a MIG w/ shield gas. I bought a complete (lightly used) Everlast 185 Micro inverter TIG setup for $700 off craigslist. Keep an eye out and you can find what you really want for the same money.

I was originally going to go that route but I need something that over 200 amps since I'll be doing thick aluminum such as intake manifold flanges and brackets

Makes sense- the thickest I have done is 1/4" aluminum and I think that was definitely the limit.

Thats some thick stuff too. How many passes did you have to do for full penetration?

single pass, pedal to the floor. The key is holding the arc at the start for a while to build heat in the part before moving forward with the bead.

BTW- I had to put in a dedicated 220v, 20 amp circuit in my garage to power it.

YOU ASKED AND YOU SHALL RECEIVE!!!!! GOT THE DAMN THING DYNOED FINALLY!!!!!!

Wow, dem curves!

Looks torquey!

April fools.....




......?

looks like a truck dyno

pilihp2 wrote:April fools.....




......?

Yeah...

just because I posted on April 1st doesnt mean its fake...........

Lol you should have done a more realistic number to fuck with us. We all know you have CIS!

themagellan wrote:Lol you should have done a more realistic number to fuck with us. We all know you have CIS!

I figured the MS Paint edited dyno chart was a dead give away....

Here's the real chart as posted on Facebook:

lol duped

Might be ordering a southbend stage II endurance clutch/pp this week or earlt next

Hahaha looking at that chart on my phone is was just thinking:" ......how?" Lol nice one

Lol it got a few people going. I should change the thread title lol

Did some major maintenance overhaul today. Got brand new moog ball joints in the rear as well as fixed the sway bar mounts by boxing them up so they don't break again. The rear passenger didnt want to cooperate so I'm letting it settle in and re-tightening it.

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ARMX3Y7IBGM[/youtube]