The Project Pad

Tial Q...its their old 50mm but redesigned and flows 60% more than the original. I'm hoping that will allow me to just run one in the future. I'm pretty sure there is no way this thing is going to require two of them.

I did a lot of research into BOV's on my lunch breaks out of boredom and found out (as I originally thought) that Tial really is the only way to go. I was looking into others like the JGS which is made in the USA and some people complained of them leaking. Pretty much every other valve leaks and doesn't flow as much as the Tial. Of course, that's well known about their wastegates too. I was really trying to make an effort to go with something other than Tial just to be different, but I couldn't justify it.

I haven't skimped on anything that I plan on keeping on the car for the long run, and I definitely didn't intend to make a leaky BOV the weak point what is in my opinion the ultimate IC setup for this car.

At this point of the things I have bought for this Holset build, I intend to keep the injectors (ID1000's), the IC setup, VEMS, and the entire exhaust from the downpipe back. Thats about it. Exhaust manifold, turbo, wastegate, and oil lines, will move on to another project or another person.

Good thing the turbo, manifold, oil lines, and wastegate cost me ~$500 combined Should be relatively easy to get that out of them when it comes time to sell.

soo does anyone know of a good way to adapt stock fuel line banjos to -8 AN? Would just be a quick, easy way to fit my shorty ID1000's. I am at a loss for thought here.

Any way you can get the AN adapters pictured in 034's fuel like kit?
http://www.034motorsport.com/engine-com ... p-307.html

Thats not quite what I'm talking about though. I'll have to look at my reg

The Window issue:
"Power Window Regulator Problems

Many years ago, my drivers side power window regulator made this crunching sound (86 5000CS T) just before it quit. I took the door panel off and found the cable that pulls the window up and down had come off the lower plastic pulley. The reason it came off was that the plastic guide tube on the motor assembly had broken and the cable tension went to zero and the cable got tangled up in the motor pulley. I was able to repair it back together over the weekend by clamping part of a copper pipe around the broken plastic section.

At the time, when these regulators were not available in the aftermarket, I checked out the new part from the dealer and it looks like Audi added a clamp around the section that typically breaks off.

Other problems include issues with the motor commutator brushes getting worn out, or sticking, in some cases water gets inside and causes corrosion damage. The motors can be swapped between a good and bad window regulator, but requires removing the cover over the cable spool, carefully removing the cables with spool gear, drive isolators, and main drive gear so the motor shaft with gear teeth can be removed after removing the 2 philips screws holding the motor to the regulator." (SJM)

The Blower Motor:
"Blower Motor and Motor Control Unit Check

The factory Service Training book on the Digital Climate Control system used in the 1986-88 5000T/Q, "Digital Climate Control for the 1986 Audi 5000" has some great design and theory of operation details. There was a change to the Climate Control in Mid 1986 model year 5000 to a digital control system.

The Digital system has the "LOW" and HIGH" fan speed buttons on the control panel inside the car. It has a little better theory of operation on this system but even its diagnostic procedure for the blower is a bit bizarre. As mentioned, this system is very similar to the one used in GM Cadillacs in the mid 80's.

It is a Harrison CCOT system with several GM components, although they are a little different than the direct replacements from GM. I looked in this service training book, checked the Bentley Manual and checked the wiring diagram to understand how this blower control is supposed to work.

The blower motor normally has ground supplied to one lead (brown), and the blower control unit (Power Module) under the engine cowling provides a variable voltage to the other lead (black/yellow stripe) going to the blower motor.

The control head inside the car with all the buttons, sends a variable voltage signal to this Blower Control Unit (Power Module) via the black/white stripe wire. Here is a simple test of the system I did: Turn on the ignition, remove the two connectors from the Blower Control unit under the plastic cowling in the engine compartment.

Check for battery voltage (Approximately 12v) at the Black/Blue stripe wire and check the brown wire for being a good ground. Use a jumper wire between the Black/Blue Stripe wire and the Black/Yellow Stripe wire.The blower motor should run at high speed.

If not, check the wiring connection at the Blower motor, and make sure the motor is getting a good ground at the brown wire. If it is ok, the brushes inside the blower motor are likely worn out. Sometimes you can remove the rubber elbow on the side of the blower motor and look inside and push on the brushes which may temporarily get the motor to start spinning.

If the blower does run at high speed when you jumper across it, then reconnect the two connectors on the Blower Control unit and with the ignition on and the A/C system on, probe the Black/White wire and check the voltage. You should see somewhere between ~2 and ~6 volts. This is the control voltage coming from the control head inside the car to control the blower speed.

If you get no voltage, suspect a wiring problem, or a problem in the control head. If you get a voltage, but the blower doesn't run, suspect the Blower Control unit. This assumes the brown lead is getting a good ground and the Black/Blue wire is getting good 12V.


Blower Motor Replacement 5000/200TQ

Before condemning the blower motor, check that it is receiving voltage from the blower motor controller using a voltmeter. The blower motor controller is mounted on top of the evaporator housing and has a heat sink that extends down inside the evaporator to get cooled because it dissipates heat as it drops the voltage going to the blower motor.

Blower Motor Replacement:

I replaced the blower motor on a 1989 200TQ recently. I removed the lower trim piece inside the passenger side lower dash area to be able to pop loose the wide center rubber boot from the blower housing. I then removed the windshield wiper arms, and the plenum plastic cover inside the engine compartment which hides the blower housing.

Then I slid the plastic inlet ring in-between the blower housing and the A/C evaporator housing to the right side in the blower housing. Then I removed the heater core coolant hoses and the heater/blower housing mounting strap. The large blower/heater core housing can be pried upward and pulled up just enough to allow gaining access to the blower motor.

There is a large foam gasket that seals the blower housing to the firewall and this gasket can stick to the firewall and make getting the blower housing pulled up very tough. If you are only replacing the blower motor you do NOT need to completely remove the blower housing.

Once the entire housing is pulled up high enough, the blower motor can be removed by taking out the 3 Philips screws that hold the white inlet ring that directs air into the blower motor. Then the electrical connector and circlip that retains the blower motor can be removed and the blower motor can be withdrawn out of the housing.

When you put the blower housing back down into the car you may want to have a helper go inside the car and make sure the wide center rubber ductwork boot gets correctly positioned back onto the blower housing. The heater core should be checked for leakage.

IF the heater core is being replaced then the heater/blower housing WILL have to be taken out of the car and be taken apart. There are some vacuum hoses and ductwork inside the car that will need to be removed." (SJM)

For the fuel gauge issue try:

pulling the fuel pump fuse and the instrument cluster fuse turn on (not engine just electronics). Turn off put fuses back it will reset it's self.

We can resort to more extreme measures if this does not work.

loxxrider wrote:Thats not quite what I'm talking about though. I'll have to look at my reg

Ah ok my bad

Corey, I took everything apart and found that one of those little plastic guide tube things was broken. It allowed way too much slack in the cable, etc...I have a spare regulator with two good ones on it, but I can't get them off without breaking them (the reg is for a rear window too). So basically it looks like I have to buy a new front passenger reg. The motor is great and so is everything inside it. I'd love to know if anyone has a good reg to sell, but maybe I'll just go new for reliability or get one from the junkyard for cheapness.

Rear pass seemed like it needed a new motor last time I looked. Wont do a damned thing. No sounds, no nothing.

I'd love to know how to get the regulator off of the window...I've been pretty lost at that.

Next up is the fuel tank.

Maybe someday the steering rack lol. Then nearly everything would be perfect.

On the fuel lines, maybe I need to do it from where the hard lines turn into braided back near the firewall?

oooooh I found one for $164 WITH A MOTOR

Hi Chris!!

Can't wait to see this Holset set-up in your car. That might prompt me to buy a car just like yours that I've been eyeing for some time now

Anyway, are you still down by Jupiter, if so, would like to come out and check out your toy before you head back up to Gainesville.

-Ragards,

-Louis

loxxrider wrote:On the fuel lines, maybe I need to do it from where the hard lines turn into braided back near the firewall?

If they are like the urScars and B3/4s you should be able to remove the crimp and factory line and just run whatever you want.

LDC007 wrote:Hi Chris!!

Can't wait to see this Holset set-up in your car. That might prompt me to buy a car just like yours that I've been eyeing for some time now

Anyway, are you still down by Jupiter, if so, would like to come out and check out your toy before you head back up to Gainesville.

-Ragards,

-Louis

Louis, I'd love for you to come out and have a look. We can plan a day out or something if you want. I'll PM you. I'm in Jupiter until the 22nd of August or so.

Mcstiff wrote:

loxxrider wrote:On the fuel lines, maybe I need to do it from where the hard lines turn into braided back near the firewall?

If they are like the urScars and B3/4s you should be able to remove the crimp and factory line and just run whatever you want.

Not sure I follow...where exactly is the line being removed? I can see that its relatively easy to run your own lines, I just haven't decided where to do it and or what sizes the threads are.

for adapting lines to the hardlines that are on the car, they use the small coupler nut kinda looking thing and u can leave that on and get a male adapter then run whatever you want after that

OK yeah, thats what I was looking at earlier today. That nut thing...just need to know the threads of that. Then I can run some AN lines from that.

Sounds like it is different than I was picturing. You may consider replacing all the SS sleeved rubber lines (they are not aeromotive style braided lines).

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-165056ERL/

Check the hard lines first, but I think the 5/16ths versions are the ones you want. The small chassis cars require that you just take a few thou off the OD of the hardline to slide over the 5/16ths, but they go, and make a great seal. THey are really reliable in my experience. They are a painless way of adapting to -6 fuel lines. From there you just need to use your choice of -6 lines.

its easier def to use the tube coupler that is one there already and go metric to AN adapter

my2000apb wrote:its easier def to use the tube coupler that is one there already and go metric to AN adapter

Then you are relying on old rubber (with non structural SS sheathing) which is known to fail in stock cars.

I dont understand how that Earls fitting works...

It is just a brass double flared section that is being crushed around the stock lines as you tighten the nut together. That makes a sealed contact around the lines, and converts over to -6AN for under 20 bucks, and less than 20 minutes. I did it originally to be temporary, and 6 years later, it is still there.

Mcstiff wrote:

my2000apb wrote:its easier def to use the tube coupler that is one there already and go metric to AN adapter

Then you are relying on old rubber (with non structural SS sheathing) which is known to fail in stock cars.

the only rubber in teh 200 20v system is tank to filer and filter to pump, about 18" total

they can be easily replaced with fresh rubber, he specifically didnt want to build his full fuel system

my2000apb wrote:

Mcstiff wrote:

my2000apb wrote:its easier def to use the tube coupler that is one there already and go metric to AN adapter

Then you are relying on old rubber (with non structural SS sheathing) which is known to fail in stock cars.

the only rubber in teh 200 20v system is tank to filer and filter to pump, about 18" total

they can be easily replaced with fresh rubber, he specifically didn't want to build his full fuel system

What goes from the firewall to the fuel rail? If your answer is Aeromotive style breaded lines I suggest you take one apart and see that the SS is not doing much.



I see the lines in this pic. Unless Audi decided to use a different material these are rubber sheathed with SS which can only be adding abrasion resistance and some burst PSI reinforcement. The SS is not bonded to the rubber line (like an Aeromotive style line) and the SS can hide dry rot.

Another post on this subject

ok i see where you are coming from, but when have you seen one of those lines that isnt useable? they are very durable

Judging from the posts on quattroworld about urS and B3/4s I would say that it is not uncommon for them to fail.

I have been putting off changing mine because I may not have a 7a intake for long.

If your going to be working on a local system that could potentially kill your car (engine fire) why not be proactive?