The Project Pad

I'll lower the car tomorrow and take another measurement with the CVs unbolted on both sides.
Craig, again thanks for your help!

Cheers

Yes, thanks Craig!

Yes thanks Craig and Martin. Looks like I need a 6speed. :wink:

getting closer guys, good work!

quattro87 wrote:Yes thanks Craig and Martin. Looks like I need a 6speed. :wink:

No problem,

Martin did most of the work.

When Martin and I get together, it's always fun and productive.

I need a 6 speed also......maybe 2...............does it ever end..... :frustrated:

Cheers,

Craig Cook

Check my thread for the rear driveshafts. I used EMPI parts which were purposefully too short, but were 90Q/coupe outers with 108mm inners (4K FWD shafts). For spacers you can demolish a old 108mm CV and use the body, they are 27mm thick. I machined one to have an alignment lip on one side and an alignment holow on the other, took about 20 minutes, then ust use long bolts. Clearly if you need a thinner spacer, just machine down the stock ring. I needed a big fat spacer on one side, 90mm thick I think so made it from scratch.

Up front I had to match 90Q outers to Tripod inners. I used EMPI parts again form a CVT equipped A6. I needed a 10mm spacer on one side and a 15 on the other. Both were made from scratch.



Hmmm seems I never got good shots of the spacers, I'll take some today for you.

Works great so far.

With the car on the ground (still needs about 200lbs of crap to get to std ride height, but), here are the measurements.
I inserted couple of long bolts so I can slide the CV in and out.

Driver side all the way out 43mm


Drivers side all the way in 23mm.
There would be more but I only have two hands, one to hold the camera and the other to hold the tape measure and the CV boot wanted to pull the CV in.


Pass side all the way out 27mm


Pass side all the way in is basically flush with the output flange and bolts up fine which would suggest that there is almost 27mm of in/out movement in the CV i.e. the entire body of the CV as timmmy mentioned above.

Higher res pics in my gallery.

So... Now we have to figure out what is the natural position of the cv.. middle, slightly out?
Opinions?

Very good. I'll take a look at the stock shafts when I pull them off tuesday, and gauge the amount of play. We can get a good spacer amount off that.

These measurements are both with passenger front URQ shafts right?

In my setup the shafts up front are angled up quite a bit as I dropped the engien 4", this means that any suspension movement from rest cuases the axle length to reduce. Even at full droop py shafts still angle up from the output flange. on a more traditional setup I believe the shafts are almost horizontal at rest, meaning under droop the shaft gets longer and compression it gets shorts, therefore I would think you should set the CV at its mid point, that is what I did in the rear of mine.

That is sound advise Haydn. Thank you for your input. I see that you made your spacers hollow. Obviously this cuts down on weight, but are you worried that your grease will work itself into the cavity and not on the bearings?

ShavedQuattro wrote:Anyone that comes to Vegas has the right to flog the car around in October......

thats enough to get me to try and come

wait til i show this to Derek LOL.....

speeding-g60 wrote:

ShavedQuattro wrote:Anyone that comes to Vegas has the right to flog the car around in October......

thats enough to get me to try and come

wait til i show this to Derek LOL.....

Thats the point!! Come on down!!

ShavedQuattro wrote:These measurements are both with passenger front URQ shafts right?

If the Bentley is correct then yes, the pass one (short one).
Looking at the pass side fitment I would say that whoever installed theirs without a spacer will have issues down the road as they are at the limit of their travel.

This is exciting! Few more tweeks to the shifter assembly and we are home free.
I am not worried about the main prop shaft as much.
Plan is to move the engine/transmission as far back as it can go and let the CV's take up the rest (few mm per side.

Cheers

Nice pics of the measurements!! That pretty much says it all. I think that the CV should also be in the middle of it's travelin and out when the shaft is in it resting state so that as the suspension compresses or droops the CV will be able to deal with th emovement in or out. I'm getting excited for an 01e!!

ShavedQuattro wrote:That is sound advise Haydn. Thank you for your input. I see that you made your spacers hollow. Obviously this cuts down on weight, but are you worried that your grease will work itself into the cavity and not on the bearings?

Yup hollow was a mistake on my part, new it was as soon as I turned it out. Hey ho.

I'd say neutral should be wid way or in slightly because youll lose length on full lock and full compression/droop. I think as long as the CV joint(really the shaft i suppose) doesnt get pushed in far enough to collide with the inside of the output cup than get it as close to mid-way or in a couple MM's inboard. Assuming were treating the spacer as said CV joint. AKA bigger spacer rather then smaller.

Should the axle drive cups spacers be steel?. I know its not rocket science, but Ive seen sone idiots do more dumb shit then crosthread an aluminum spacer. Did you Loctite yours Haydn?

The spacers will be in compression, so aluminum will be fine. The stress ill be on the bolts, and they will be strong enough. Think about Wheel spacers. I have 15mm's on right now. In fact, I have seen road race guys "fin" the CV adapters to help cool the CV.

Another cool thing about this setup is that both front shafts will be the same length. This will eliminate any torque steer that could happen. Even with AWD, high hp makes for a handful. It will nice to have equal lengths

Wow, great info right here.

Also I won't take the new thread topic personal.

hank you wanna sell your long axle? thats the one that is blown in my car, i have an aftermarket on the way but would like an OEM for the future.

I wonder what the cost of these is.

Custom axles and shafts for any application. If you are building a rock crawler, sand buggy, mini truck or any other custom vehicle this is the right axle for you!
THE LAST BAR YOU WILL EVER BUY! MOST SHAFTS GUARANTEED AGAINST BREAKAGE! SO IF YOUR BAR IS FAILING OR YOU ARE JUST DOING AN ENGINE SWAP, WE HAVE THE BAR FOR YOU! CUSTOM HALF SHAFTS FOR ANY APPLICATION! RCV SPLINE SPECIFICATIONS: 4340 CHROMOLY OR 300M STEEL ANY SIZE ORDER, ALWAYS! ANY SPLINE CONFIGURATION SOLID OR GUN DRILLED YOUR CHOICE OF COATINGS: BLACK OXIDE, PLATING, PHOSPHATE, AND POWDER COATING AVAILABLE. CALL TODAY TO PLACE YOUR ORDER!

They also sell inner races for 930 CVs.

I'm sure the axle assemblies would be $$$$ but if they are guaranteed it may be worth it.

ShavedQuattro wrote:And then the last lap..

Link to video

Ahhaha, I literally laughed out loud here...no Hank, I wouldn't comment on your lag, but the car sounds awesome. Hopefully we meet up one of these days and we can all duke it out...

Too bad they put those cones out there, but I guess with no corner workers and keeping the costs to a minimum they have to control your speed. Get out there next year for a proper 2 day school, you'll get sooo much more out of it. Make that turbo reliable first :wink:

Turbo is reliable.. Transmissions are another story. 01e will fix that.

There are three possible track days coming up. A Porsche club day, Miller days and then Battle Lap. All three are pretty good value for track time, but only the Porsche event has instruction. That is really what I would like to do. I'll probably try and make that happen. WinterCross is the same setup as what you just saw, but they drive in whatever conditions are present on the given Saturday. It could be a cold track with no snow/rain, or 2 feet of fresh. They time you as well as give you 2 30 minute practice sessions in a more session layout. Then they time the individual runs from a stop till finish.

Well, it has been over 3 years since I got a ticket in my URQ. The thing sounds mean as hell on the street, it is fast as hell, and I am usually driving like an A-hole in it. Put those three things together, and it is obvious that the car just doesnt get the attention it deserves due to the cruddy paint job....

So there I was last Friday after school, looking at the banged up hood that had an encounter with the intake manifold after a couple of motor mounts busted. I thought I would strip the hood to see how the stripper peeled back the paint. To my absolute horror, I realized that the car had been resprayed not once, or twice, but 3 times. The first respray was actually pretty good, but the third to fourth was a pile of poop. They used a very thick polyethylene primer that was atleast a 16th thick.

I couldnt live with that. With 4 weeks till a meet up in Vegas with some of the west coast's biggest Audi nerds, I jumped in with both feet.




After much stripping, wire brushes, and fingers that feel like sandpaper... the car is down to bare metal on all exterior panels, and the jams as well. This was already an escalation from the original plan to just take it down to the original color and spray. I was half tempted to pull the carpet and seam weld, but enough was enough. Vegas is 3 weeks away..






As you can see in the pictures, the fenders were massaged a bit to enable the use of my track tires of choice from here on out. They will fit 255-40-17s pretty easily, and probably 265s with the right offset.

Overall, I am pretty happy. I'll put in another 5 hours tomarrow night like I did tonight, and have all the body work done and ready for my epoxy primer when it arrives on Wednesday. I'll keep updating the process.

For those that are getting ambitious as well, I liked this stuff the best
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1 ... ogId=10053

My pre-wirewheel tool of choice was this blade scrapper, although I used one with a carbide blade that lasted the whole time. I hear the razor blades wear out fast and then leave marks..
http://www.boatersworld.com/product/MP8 ... rce=google

Once I was through the resprays, the base coat was pretty tough. I put the sprayable stuff in a paint gun and shot it like it was paint. I would just circle the car spraying it on in the sun and then attacking one panel at a time. I went through a dozen or so wire wheels, 2 harbor freight air angle grinders, and about 15 hours of stripping.

Nice job on the stripping. No big surprises underneath either, which is nice.

Wow Hank! Lookin good man! I can't wait to hear what color your going with!