The Project Pad

Dan McBoost wrote:

Thanks dan, not that I am keeping track but for sure this has to be the second time you dropped some.

FFF wrote:Looking good - any idea on what the weight difference from stock will be?

Thanks FFF, and as far as the weight difference, I have no clue. I played with the idea to weight the stuff as it came out but decided time would be better spent building the car.

I would think the more favourable weight distribution would be the biggest impact. I'd say you're adding a little and improving the balance toward 50:50, so the car will both look cooler and handle better. More boost solves any weight gain

PRY4SNO wrote:I would think the more favourable weight distribution would be the biggest impact. I'd say you're adding a little and improving the balance toward 50:50, so the car will both look cooler and handle better. More boost solves any weight gain

Get out of my head please. Other than "More boost solves any weight gain" my thought exactly: There is no way to get 50:50 but I am gunning for 47-48:50. Moving battery is worth 1 to 1.5% my rad. plus the water it holds is maybe another .5% so hopefully I be looking at 2%.

Mcstiff wrote:http://pitstopusa.com/c-131890-chassis-suspension-ballast-lead.html

Thanks Mcstiff , that site I was not familiar with, lots of cool stuff.

Small update:

Side rad outlets are glued in place, needing to be fiber glassed.



Other side with batt hold down complete



Look from outside



More pics as I get more done!!!!!!!!!!

Fiber glassing almost done ,need one more coat of resin and then prime and paint.



I did learn a lot doing fiber glassing for the first time. Also been prepping the rear quarters for prime ,paint and welding. More paint drying torture in my future.

Seam sealed and one coat of primer.



Rear fenders are getting primed on the inside as well.



More prime and paint ,a couple of test fits and the rear of my car will no longer have Gaping Holes. Well of course they still need welding to the car.

After watching paint dry again. ( at 50 degrees in the garage ) Lined up the fenders.




Then cutting and stitching . FENDERS ON. Both sides are tacked in place with just a little patch panel left to fab and then final welding.

Oh boy... this is where things start to take shape!
:popcorn:

Thanks:Pry4sno


More stuff got done.

Rear fender RAD outlets cut in after welding fenders to the car.



Rear view.



Side.




Wire frames for the outlets are already made. They just need to get placed and welded in.

Tire off to bed.

Nice - keep the updates coming!

This is a really cool project! I can't wait to see the end results. Keep up the good work!

Thanks FFF, Speedydtp247 !

Have been shaping these for a while.
Funny, my original thought/design of returning the rear fender to the body with a grill would look better than the scoop.
But I keep telling myself " Function over Form "

So the front of the Rad air intake needed a transition (see pic. above). Made one of these for each side. (Still needs to get cut flush with the rocker)
Side panel on pass. side cut and fit. Have to do the other side yet and then prime/paint and then weld the panels permanently.
Getting there......

What are you planning for drivetrain?

PRY4SNO wrote:

Thanks

ringbearer wrote:What are you planning for drivetrain?

Goal is 500 turbo awhp.

Nice, I figured it wouldn't be an MC1 or anything but I was curious. Keep up the great work!

ringbearer wrote:Nice, I figured it wouldn't be an MC1 or anything but I was curious. Keep up the great work!

Plan to use the 7A block with modified 7A head, Wagner intake, I think the turbo is a holset he 351ve (purchased over 9 years ago) and of course the supporting mods. Most of the parts I have been collecting for over 15 years and still need to make 2 more big purchases as well as a some small ones.

Thought you guys might like the new view.
Tomorrow I should get 1/2 day in the garage. Yeah.........

Wow, talk about dedication... parts hoarding for 15 years! Makes me feel better taking 5 to get where I am so far haha

What are your plans for actuation of the variable geometry turbine? Or just keep it simple and run at one A/R?

I like where this is going.

PRY4SNO wrote:Wow, talk about dedication... parts hoarding for 15 years! Makes me feel better taking 5 to get where I am so far haha<br abp="693"><br abp="694">What are your plans for actuation of the variable geometry turbine? Or just keep it simple and run at one A/R?

Idea is to use linear actuator via PWM from the ecu. I found some that I think are fast enough but the torque might be a little on the weak side. Next up would be wastegate actuator with valve in control line for adjustability. If that does not work I will find the turbos sweet spot, lock that mechanically and put an electric turbo in the intake tract to help out the bottom end. I think the newer 1.4 engines use a electic turbo to eliminate lag running at 48 Volts. Mine would be a handmade/homemade unit of course and hoping to get away with 12-24 Volts.

the german wrote:I like where this is going.

Thank you sir. I have to be honest , this started out with just a fender graft on all for corners. You know Just 2 moths of work, maybe 4 on the outside and morphed into what you see in these pages.

PP is the home of scope creep. You are in the right place.

the german wrote:PP is the home of scope creep. You are in the right place.

So its official, scope creep is a disease and I have it!!!!!!!!!!!!

Bottom of Rad intake closure pieces are made and have radius on uphill side. Still need radius on downhill side. This piece is for the passenger side and the wire is longer than the other, as the pass. side was hit in that area and the wire reestablishes the body line.
Area that was hit. So one part was pushed in and the door edge was pushed out, that required some brutal hammer blows to straighten. You can see the area that needs a new bodyline.
Other side mocked up. On this side the wire is quite a bit shorter as all the sheet metal meets nicely.
Still have two more transition pieces to make for the side of the Rad intake. Need to get those done before paint and final welding.