2.0L20v90Q...white wheels it is!!

speeding-g60 · Post by **speeding-g60** » Fri Mar 20, 2009 9:34 pm

:stupid: WTF is IP? internal protection?

speeding-g60 · Post by **speeding-g60** » Fri Mar 20, 2009 9:36 pm

i think it is if you will be able to use it outside.... or how it will hold up to the environment.

cuatrokoop · Post by **cuatrokoop** » Sat Mar 21, 2009 4:20 am

IP is Ingress Protection. Rating of how a device will hold up to solids and liquids.

This is the best site I've seen to explain it to people yet, because is has pictars to go with the words :wink:

http://www.protectingpeople.co.uk/fire_ ... lained.htm

I looked at the PQ and could not find it's IP rating listed, unless I'm blind and totally missed it.

Justin517 · Post by **Justin517** » Sat Mar 21, 2009 4:31 am

if you want a constant duty actuator, look for a woodward governor actuator/solenoid. They are used for high idle/choke/shutdown on man lifts.

they can be had in push or pull, spring or non spring return, different weight ratings and sizes.

http://www.woodward.com/engine/gaseng/g ... l_spsw.cfm

Zerb · Post by **Zerb** » Sat Mar 21, 2009 4:51 am

i couldnt find a damn thing about its IP on the site either, i tried calling them the other day...but i never get my calls returned. no worries though, IF this thing works out, ill make a nice little splash guard/box out of stainless to keep it away from the elements.

as far as those woodward things, thanks for the recommendation, but i got this because it was small and has pretty much the exact throw that i THINK ill need, but once again, we'll see. if this doesnt work out.....push/pull cable it is. :-D

cuatrokoop · Post by **cuatrokoop** » Sat Mar 21, 2009 7:13 am

If you can put a boot around it at all, that will be better than a splash shield. Or try both...

Zerb · Post by **Zerb** » Sat Mar 21, 2009 7:36 am

ill have to look into the boot. the first obstacle to get over is the fact that the hole in the actuator arm is quite small, and the hole in the locker arm is a bit bigger, so i need to rig something up to attach the two together.

cuatrokoop · Post by **cuatrokoop** » Sat Mar 21, 2009 3:25 pm

Can you drill the actuator? Or is it too thin...?

Zerb · Post by **Zerb** » Sat Mar 21, 2009 4:58 pm

eh....you 'could' make the hole a bit larger, the arm is plastic on the actuator and there isnt much meat around it, but it could be done i think. the bolt on the locker on the dif takes a 5mm (or 4mm) bolt/nut and the hole on the actuator is just a bit too small for that.

cuatrokoop · Post by **cuatrokoop** » Sat Mar 21, 2009 7:55 pm

Plastic? Don't drill it. Figure out a way to get a smaller bolt on the lock arm.

speeding-g60 · Post by **speeding-g60** » Sat Mar 21, 2009 8:00 pm

take the bolt that will go thru the linear actuator, and run it up thru the bottom of the hole on the lock arm. tack it into place on the head, on the bottom side of the lock arm. then use a lock nut, nylock type, on the top of the bolt thru the actuator arm hole. using the nylock nut will give the thing a little bit of "play" and not bind up. do not tighten the piss out of it, thats why you use the nylock....

my thoughts.... now get'r dun

speeding-g60 · Post by **speeding-g60** » Sat Mar 21, 2009 8:04 pm

maybe setup a micro-switch for a dummy-light on the dash. "LOCKED WHEN LIT" or some such thing.

and use a nylon washer on the bolt, above and below the actuator arm, with the nylock setup. keeps everything nice and free-moving.

Zerb · Post by **Zerb** » Sun Mar 22, 2009 6:50 am

that was what i was thinking about doing, if i drew the same thing that youre saying to do here.

those red things are bolts, lol. but i think everyone figured that out.

speeding-g60 · Post by **speeding-g60** » Sun Mar 22, 2009 8:46 pm

kinda what i was thinkin. MS Paint OWNS me... haha.

Zerb · Post by **Zerb** » Mon Mar 23, 2009 7:15 am

you cant weld to the lock arm, if thats what youre saying...cause thats a hard plastic.

speeding-g60 · Post by **speeding-g60** » Mon Mar 23, 2009 9:20 am

ok then, use a lock nut above lock arm and also above the actuator arm. no welds at all then. just leave a little slack/play around each arm. no actually, lock the lock arm down solid so it gives the actuator a solid pull.

Zerb · Post by **Zerb** » Mon Mar 23, 2009 4:15 pm

i do work on the car, sometimes....just a bit....

got the fuel cell in.
and yes i can still fill it up like that, i know this because i took a nozzle from work and made sure that i could easily fill the tank up. :-D

SilverCQ · Post by **SilverCQ** » Mon Mar 23, 2009 4:23 pm

looking good man

Zerb · Post by **Zerb** » Mon Mar 23, 2009 4:24 pm

...aside from those terrible booger welds, lol. oh well, i work with what i've got.

vagrant_mugen · Post by **vagrant_mugen** » Tue Mar 24, 2009 9:10 pm

yeah, id definitly have those welds cgone over with a good MIG and make sure there solid, and cleaner looking, otherwise i wouldnt even tell people ive got a fuel cell.... no offense. they just look terrible.

hell, bring it by my shop and ill clean up those welds for ya in a jiffy...

good work for sure tho... :-)

Zerb · Post by **Zerb** » Thu Apr 23, 2009 5:24 am

so i might be ditching the actuator idea, just cause im thinking i may just go with the k.i.s.s principle, since this is a go fast car and not a luxury vechile.

so im thinking this thing will more then do me.

here's the link to it as well...

http://catalog2.genpt.com/catviewer15/( ... fj0eurinub)/Catalog/DetailAggr.aspx?An=0+59999+2999999+109999&A=BK_7311100_0229685009&ShowPics=1

Zerb · Post by **Zerb** » Thu Apr 23, 2009 5:35 pm

got a bit of my cage tacked in. so now i can get alotta other shizzy done. pics. that is all.

tried to get the apillar bar as close to the apillar as i could, since this thing will be driven on the street and i didnt want that pain in the ass bar blocking alotta my view.

Post by **HT Motorsport** » Thu Apr 23, 2009 6:30 pm

I dont mean to be a prick here, but.....(I am and I canto help it)

I strongly recommend you find a professional welder / cage person to finish weld your cage.

The cage tube is nice and it would be a shame to waste a lot of money with your welding talents (See fuel cell install)

This sounds terrible so I appologize.

Plus the footer plate really needs to be boxed into the sill.

I am somewhat perplexed with the rash of drag race only cages on here at the mo.

if you would like some advice on cage design please feel free to PM me.

(hiding under chair emoticon)

speeding-g60 · Post by **speeding-g60** » Thu Apr 23, 2009 6:47 pm

oh, he plans to have someone who can weld finish it. he is just getting it placed.

and drag cage is just that, meets the spec of the person running the car. i am not doing anything other than drag racing, ever.... Johnny here will be drag and street driving...

NHRA calls the plates on the floor, minimum 6x6. you "can" do it sill plate boxed, but they want the actual plate the tube is mounted to in at least 6x6, so it would make for a larger box in this case.

where the front bars come down, it is reinforced under the floor. it was a pain in the ass for mine....

Zerb · Post by **Zerb** » Thu Apr 23, 2009 6:47 pm

no offense taken at all but....this is why its only just tacked into the car.

i cant build the rest of the car, interior, seat and such...without the cage in there. which is why the farthest ill go is what you see above. anything after that, itll be going to the guy that made this...

same thing my friend did here, tacked his with a stick welder and drove it to this guy and wa-la.

i am by no means a welder, nor do i pretend to be, so like i said earlier, no offense taken.