I verified the bore and stroke before installing.
Looking at my old 2.3 NF block side by side there are many difffernces:
subtle increase in strengthening ribs on both sides
looks like the lower half of the block is wider (like a VW bubble block), to clear the 95.5 crank
passenger side of the block has "channels" cast to add clearance for the crank throws, you can see them on the outside as raised sections under the strengthening ribs.
I can't remember the deck height, I might be able to measure it in the car.
Deck height is taller because I can barely fit the timing belt with the water pump adjusted all the way out.
It clearly DOES NOT have "2.5L" stamped on the side like the eurovan blocks have...
Pics for reference (black is 2.6, blue is 2.3):


So will short skirted blocks too, since there is generally a main cap register of maybe ,100-.200". On an assembled engine it's probably easiest to measure to the top (or bottom) of the flywheel flange then add/subtract half the flange diameter.
